Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
the castrol is a cheap oil. group III base. if you want a good oil you have to pay more for it. it's that simple. the castrol you pay for marketing, motorsport involvement etc, and a bit of your money goes to developing oil, but it's still a cheap oil, and in my view poor value. but again its' a simple equation. good oil costs more than worse oil.

personally I think if you care about your engine and like to give it the old spanking then a IV or a V is the go. I use motul chrono 300V. costs a lot, but to me it's worth every cent. oil is one of the most important ingredients to a happy car. in my mind it's right up there with tyres as the biggest thing people underspend on. I say you can never spend too much $$ on good tyres, or good oil.

agreed! Group 5 all the way....

  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

sxc33 Rising Star

sxc33

Posted
Posted

I am due for an oil change in about a month or so.

My rb25 will have 174 000 kays on it when its next due.

What oils have those of u with high kilometre engines out there used?

My intention was to use Shell Helix Ultra again.

Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted

There seems to me too much bullshit surrounding what oil is the best... you guys are seem to be confused as well. I think Ill just stick with Castrol 5w-30 and be done with it. As long as I service it regularly and dont punish the car on the track I should be ok.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

No confusion here.

I simply refuse to pay for a so called synthetic as you are at synthetic prices.

Motul 8100 5w40 for this very reason is an excellent value motor oil when you consider its a grp 4 'true' synthetic when the bottle of castrol next to it is roughly the same price if not more where I shop.

Also... Monitor your oil usage with that castrol 5w30. :thumbsup:

made_guy Experienced

made_guy

Posted
Posted
I am due for an oil change in about a month or so.

My rb25 will have 174 000 kays on it when its next due.

What oils have those of u with high kilometre engines out there used?

My intention was to use Shell Helix Ultra again.

Hey man, after reading a lot of this stuff I went with royal purple to start with from performancelub.com (mobil 1 is the same price). It is a reasonably good oil i think for a good price. I am planning to do a sub 5000km change on it again anyway to clean the engine a bit, and I'm planning to use the mobil 1 this time round. Then after that I think I'm going to bite the bullet and use the redline but from what i've heard, this oil could probably be safe for up to 10000km so I'm going to look at changing the redline every 7000km when i start to run that.

hope that makes sense.

p.s. you can read and read and read, but generally there is no real 'cheap' way to run 'the best' stuff. if you want the best, go for redline. if you want the next step down, go motul 300v, if you want the next step down, go mobil 1. if you want the NEXT step down, sell your car and buy something that likes cheap 20w50 :whistling:

Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted
No confusion here.

I simply refuse to pay for a so called synthetic as you are at synthetic prices.

Motul 8100 5w40 for this very reason is an excellent value motor oil when you consider its a grp 4 'true' synthetic when the bottle of castrol next to it is roughly the same price if not more where I shop.

Also... Monitor your oil usage with that castrol 5w30. :whistling:

I paid 48 bucks for the bottle of Castrol 5w-30. How much is the Motul 8100 5w-40?

Ill check how much oil I got today :P

sxc33 Rising Star

sxc33

Posted
Posted
Hey man, after reading a lot of this stuff I went with royal purple to start with from performancelub.com (mobil 1 is the same price). It is a reasonably good oil i think for a good price. I am planning to do a sub 5000km change on it again anyway to clean the engine a bit, and I'm planning to use the mobil 1 this time round. Then after that I think I'm going to bite the bullet and use the redline but from what i've heard, this oil could probably be safe for up to 10000km so I'm going to look at changing the redline every 7000km when i start to run that.

hope that makes sense.

p.s. you can read and read and read, but generally there is no real 'cheap' way to run 'the best' stuff. if you want the best, go for redline. if you want the next step down, go motul 300v, if you want the next step down, go mobil 1. if you want the NEXT step down, sell your car and buy something that likes cheap 20w50 :cheers:

No dramas mate. Royal Purple, i will look into it.

And i do realise that skylines and cheap never go in the same sentence. I spend big on everything else so i aint gonna skimp on something as important as oil :thumbsup:

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
yeah especially in an rb...... it will do its own oil changes :P

I tried the castrol 5w30 a year or so ago; motor had probably done around 20,000kays. I found it used oil with the castrol 5w30, dropped the motul 5w40 back in and not a drop.

Was using Mobil1 10W30 and found it caused a lot of noise from the lifters

Hows your oil pressure? :S

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted
There seems to me too much bullshit surrounding what oil is the best... you guys are seem to be confused as well. I think Ill just stick with Castrol 5w-30 and be done with it. As long as I service it regularly and dont punish the car on the track I should be ok.

No confusion here mate.

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
Posted
I tried the castrol 5w30 a year or so ago; motor had probably done around 20,000kays. I found it used oil with the castrol 5w30, dropped the motul 5w40 back in and not a drop.

Hows your oil pressure? :S

LOL well top stuff, i think i might go get some motul 8100 5-40W since a few people agree its a tough street oil and havent bagged it out yet...

Anymore people recommend it? KJ?... just beofore i get sum?

Kozeyekan Proficient

Kozeyekan

Posted
Posted

I'm running royal purple in my gearbox and engine, and have no worries at all. It does the job with no problems, and I think the idle is smoother, but it's hard to say with these things. Also cold starts are fine, so full endorsement.

If you're in melbourne, just email royal purple directly, and they should be able to sell you some from the warehouse. I was looking at a group buy at one stage, but there was not enough interest.

From what I've been told, Redline is better, but it's also much more expensive. If you're racing hard, go with redline. If you're driving normally with the occasional squirt, well, I picked Royal purple for that reason, with the bonus that if I spring a leak, I'll know about it due to the unique colour on the driveway.

Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted
I tried the castrol 5w30 a year or so ago; motor had probably done around 20,000kays. I found it used oil with the castrol 5w30, dropped the motul 5w40 back in and not a drop.

Checked the oil tonight and it was still up to F. Car has done 6500 KMs since last oil change. Im planning to do an oil change (same oil Castrol 5w-30) at 7000 KMs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...