Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the castrol is a cheap oil. group III base. if you want a good oil you have to pay more for it. it's that simple. the castrol you pay for marketing, motorsport involvement etc, and a bit of your money goes to developing oil, but it's still a cheap oil, and in my view poor value. but again its' a simple equation. good oil costs more than worse oil.

personally I think if you care about your engine and like to give it the old spanking then a IV or a V is the go. I use motul chrono 300V. costs a lot, but to me it's worth every cent. oil is one of the most important ingredients to a happy car. in my mind it's right up there with tyres as the biggest thing people underspend on. I say you can never spend too much $$ on good tyres, or good oil.

agreed! Group 5 all the way....

I am due for an oil change in about a month or so.

My rb25 will have 174 000 kays on it when its next due.

What oils have those of u with high kilometre engines out there used?

My intention was to use Shell Helix Ultra again.

There seems to me too much bullshit surrounding what oil is the best... you guys are seem to be confused as well. I think Ill just stick with Castrol 5w-30 and be done with it. As long as I service it regularly and dont punish the car on the track I should be ok.

No confusion here.

I simply refuse to pay for a so called synthetic as you are at synthetic prices.

Motul 8100 5w40 for this very reason is an excellent value motor oil when you consider its a grp 4 'true' synthetic when the bottle of castrol next to it is roughly the same price if not more where I shop.

Also... Monitor your oil usage with that castrol 5w30. :thumbsup:

I am due for an oil change in about a month or so.

My rb25 will have 174 000 kays on it when its next due.

What oils have those of u with high kilometre engines out there used?

My intention was to use Shell Helix Ultra again.

Hey man, after reading a lot of this stuff I went with royal purple to start with from performancelub.com (mobil 1 is the same price). It is a reasonably good oil i think for a good price. I am planning to do a sub 5000km change on it again anyway to clean the engine a bit, and I'm planning to use the mobil 1 this time round. Then after that I think I'm going to bite the bullet and use the redline but from what i've heard, this oil could probably be safe for up to 10000km so I'm going to look at changing the redline every 7000km when i start to run that.

hope that makes sense.

p.s. you can read and read and read, but generally there is no real 'cheap' way to run 'the best' stuff. if you want the best, go for redline. if you want the next step down, go motul 300v, if you want the next step down, go mobil 1. if you want the NEXT step down, sell your car and buy something that likes cheap 20w50 :whistling:

No confusion here.

I simply refuse to pay for a so called synthetic as you are at synthetic prices.

Motul 8100 5w40 for this very reason is an excellent value motor oil when you consider its a grp 4 'true' synthetic when the bottle of castrol next to it is roughly the same price if not more where I shop.

Also... Monitor your oil usage with that castrol 5w30. :whistling:

I paid 48 bucks for the bottle of Castrol 5w-30. How much is the Motul 8100 5w-40?

Ill check how much oil I got today :P

Hey man, after reading a lot of this stuff I went with royal purple to start with from performancelub.com (mobil 1 is the same price). It is a reasonably good oil i think for a good price. I am planning to do a sub 5000km change on it again anyway to clean the engine a bit, and I'm planning to use the mobil 1 this time round. Then after that I think I'm going to bite the bullet and use the redline but from what i've heard, this oil could probably be safe for up to 10000km so I'm going to look at changing the redline every 7000km when i start to run that.

hope that makes sense.

p.s. you can read and read and read, but generally there is no real 'cheap' way to run 'the best' stuff. if you want the best, go for redline. if you want the next step down, go motul 300v, if you want the next step down, go mobil 1. if you want the NEXT step down, sell your car and buy something that likes cheap 20w50 :cheers:

No dramas mate. Royal Purple, i will look into it.

And i do realise that skylines and cheap never go in the same sentence. I spend big on everything else so i aint gonna skimp on something as important as oil :thumbsup:

yeah especially in an rb...... it will do its own oil changes :P

I tried the castrol 5w30 a year or so ago; motor had probably done around 20,000kays. I found it used oil with the castrol 5w30, dropped the motul 5w40 back in and not a drop.

Was using Mobil1 10W30 and found it caused a lot of noise from the lifters

Hows your oil pressure? :S

There seems to me too much bullshit surrounding what oil is the best... you guys are seem to be confused as well. I think Ill just stick with Castrol 5w-30 and be done with it. As long as I service it regularly and dont punish the car on the track I should be ok.

No confusion here mate.

I tried the castrol 5w30 a year or so ago; motor had probably done around 20,000kays. I found it used oil with the castrol 5w30, dropped the motul 5w40 back in and not a drop.

Hows your oil pressure? :S

LOL well top stuff, i think i might go get some motul 8100 5-40W since a few people agree its a tough street oil and havent bagged it out yet...

Anymore people recommend it? KJ?... just beofore i get sum?

I'm running royal purple in my gearbox and engine, and have no worries at all. It does the job with no problems, and I think the idle is smoother, but it's hard to say with these things. Also cold starts are fine, so full endorsement.

If you're in melbourne, just email royal purple directly, and they should be able to sell you some from the warehouse. I was looking at a group buy at one stage, but there was not enough interest.

From what I've been told, Redline is better, but it's also much more expensive. If you're racing hard, go with redline. If you're driving normally with the occasional squirt, well, I picked Royal purple for that reason, with the bonus that if I spring a leak, I'll know about it due to the unique colour on the driveway.

I tried the castrol 5w30 a year or so ago; motor had probably done around 20,000kays. I found it used oil with the castrol 5w30, dropped the motul 5w40 back in and not a drop.

Checked the oil tonight and it was still up to F. Car has done 6500 KMs since last oil change. Im planning to do an oil change (same oil Castrol 5w-30) at 7000 KMs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...