The Goods On Oils

[shaunzo101]

Is it true that fully synthetic oil f###s the seals in the turbo? I was told that when i bought motul 8100 5w40 for my 96 series 2 r33.

[PM-R33]

Umm no, who the hell told you that?

[SS8_Gohan]

Is it true that fully synthetic oil f###s the seals in the turbo? I was told that when i bought motul 8100 5w40 for my 96 series 2 r33.

let me guess, you were at a autobarn/supercrap/repco when you were told this?

[FLY12N]

Changed from Castrol Edge 5w30 to the Motul 5w40 in my 33 GTR, seems to run much smoother now. Glad I made the change.

[shaunzo101]

Umm no, who the hell told you that?

ok then yeah i know someone who had a 33 and thats what he told me so i went along with it and got the 4100 turbolight 10w40, il confidently go the full synth in 5000k's time.

[Bris33]

was wondering from someone who has an oil temp guage what temp the rb usually runs at? for my two cents im running Penrite 10w-50 semi synthetic which is SM grade. the engine has done 14x,xxx kms if the engine had dont less kms i would run a 40 grade oil. I once owned a nissan leopard 1990 with a vg30det, same as the z32 and developed a top end lifter sound when i used a 30grade oil, changing back didnt fix the problem. So i play it safe now and run an oil thats a little on the thicker side, I change my oil every 5000kms.

[some_cs_student]

was wondering from someone who has an oil temp guage what temp the rb usually runs at?

On my temp gauge I get to 70 degrees (celcius) when warmed up completely, up-to 85 degrees when the car is not getting much open air, using a 0w30 oil, I do have an oil cooler.

That's the temps I usually run in most weather conditions...(so far)

[chuckie]

G`day All just found my oil sample sheet so here you go have a look ,1 is engine oil has my 3 samlpe`s so far on them,& one is auto tran`s so ,don`t want to confuse any one ok ,cheer`s chuckie . .Please remember all engine oil is super syn ,auto trans i have no idea what oil was in it so,but i used 15 litre`s of tran`s when i changed it ,pumped it out so thank`s again .

[sam06]

Using 5w30 mobil 1 in my rb25det but was wondering what would be a good oil to use for the manual box? any help would be great can't seem to get any good advice anywhere

[PM-R33]

Redline lightweight shockproof oil (not the super lightweight) if you can find someone that sells it, its pretty expensive though.

Edited December 7, 2008 by PM-R33

[Excess]

where to buy them? ^^

Edited December 8, 2008 by Excess

[SS8_Gohan]

as has been linked about 100 times in this thread...

www.performancelub.com

[sam06]

Redline lightweight shockproof oil (not the super lightweight) if you can find someone that sells it, its pretty expensive though.

awesome thanks mate. nice car too by the way

[PM-R33]

[Smity42]

Hi guys,

Firstly: I have read the entire thread and tried to understand as much as I can. But I still have some questions.

I am putting an RB25DET NEO into my R31 skyline. The engine has been rebuilt. Since it is a new engine into the car I do not know what temps/pressures or AFRs are like to base my viscosity on for the initial oil...

So, the car is my daily. That said, I have quite a heavy foot even when driving daily . The car has also seen a bit of track time, and will be seeing quite a lot more with the new engine . Sprint days and the like. I also love a good 'spirited drive' through the mountains.

Im in QLD and it can get quite hot up here, but will be running a huge oil cooler with a thermostat, so hopefully the oil temps won't get too hot.

I change oil every 5000ks. I have also been doing the filter every change but after reading this thread I am going to start doing it every 2nd change (so 10,000).

Also i'm not too worried about cost here, and am much more concerned about getting the right oil. My last two engines have gone due to spun big end bearings so i think forking out for good oil will work out cheaper in the end...

First question: I need an oil to run the engine in on. I am told to use a good quality mineral oil for this. But there has not been much discussion on mineral oils in this thread, its all about synth. Whats a good mineral oil to run the engine in on? something like GTX3?

Secondly question: What oil to run after the run in?

From reading this thread:

For Daily - 0w30 or so

For track / higher temps - closer to 10w40 or 10w50.

But what about in my case, where it sees a bit of both? I am hoping that due to the oil cooler the temps wont get too bad so I can still use around the 0w30 range?

And then, what brand/etc. From reading this thread it seems Group V is what everyone loves. And motul 300V is recommended a lot... but on R31 skyline club there is this:

"motul no good, run it before in my car, one track day and its toast. Not just my engine, seen plenty of Rb's and Sr's run on it with same results with both fresh and old motors. Motul seems to be a lot of hype"

"That is the problem with a full double ester oil, shears too quick. Not that it is a bad oil, I use a blend of two different 300v weights, granted the oil lasts a short time but it does its job well."

What are the oil experts opinions on this? Will Redline have the same problem as it is also Group V (but not sure about this double ester thing)?

So at this stage I am leaning towards Redline... probably 5w30 unless I'm told otherwise. It works out stupidly expensive (currently $25/L off performancelub, despite quotes of it being much cheaper a while ago in this thread ), but if it's the right choice thats OK.

Or am i completely off track?

Thanks,

Martin

Edited December 12, 2008 by Smity42

[SS8_Gohan]

i too have heard a Mineral oil to start with does help bed everything down. I would run this for say 1000 - 1500km, then change to synth.

there would be COUNTLESS serious track go-ers on SAU who would use something high-end like Redline for their track work. I don't go to the track much, so Group IV (Royal Purple) does me fine... but if i wanted the best protection possible, i'd fork out for the Redline. I believe the benefit is that it DOESN'T break down as quickly at higher temps (full synth) Skeptical re: Motul anecdotes...

I run RP 5w30 and a SAU vic friend, gareth, runs 5w30 RP in his GTR but with an oil cooler, which made a noticeable difference to oil temps at track days we BOTH attended. His car also produces more power (neo25 vs rb26). So same track, same atmospheric conditions, same oil, he has more power, but a cooler, and his RP was noticeably cooler than mine. So in that sense, perhaps don't feel you have to go super thick if you're running a cooler.

How many track days would you be doing a year? Do you plan to change oil after every track day? If a lot of track work, you maybe better off leaving say a 10w40 in there most the time

If you're using a real good quality synth, to save a bit of $, i'd say 7.5K-10K changes WITH filter would suffice. But perhaps only when there are few/if any track days in that period.

I'm thinking 5K changes are a bit overkill given the quality of oil a lot of us use, you may as well use a Group III (castrol edge, etc) and change regularly. I'm aiming for either 6months (don't drive much) or 7500km for my Royal Purple 5w30 changes.

Sounds like you know what's going on anyway

[some_cs_student]

Firstly: I have read the entire thread and tried to understand as much as I can. But I still have some questions.

Excellent, good to know some people put some effort in

Very little discussion of mineral oils to use, there are threads outside this one discussing bedding in the engine, personally, I'd ask the person who built your motor first, then compare with other advice you've seen.

Personally I'm using German Castrol 0w30 with a fairly large oil cooler, and it averages constant 70 degrees hitting 80 unless its a very hot day, then it could get hotter, I was planning to use Mobil 1 0w40 but read that at the higher end it breaks down a little and is closer to the German Castrol 0w30...(that's what I read on Bob is the oil guy, not 100% sure it true but I'd trust their opinions over my own ).

Anyway, any fully synthetic (group IV or V if you can afford it), as recommended in the sticky, you may want to try a 10w40 and see how you go with your weather / oil cooler / car AFTER you've bedded everything in.

EDIT: I'm changing at 10K interval's I have not had a used oil analysis done as I lack the technical knowledge there, other people have and have no issue with 10K so I'm sticking with that. Furthermore, I have read that oil filters get better after 4K, as the once you filter a bit of the larger particles you can trap smaller particles that would normally slip through the filter...so I only change my oil filter every 10K.

[BeEnAr]

Is it true that fully synthetic oil f###s the seals in the turbo? I was told that when i bought motul 8100 5w40 for my 96 series 2 r33.

Synthetic oil can shrink seals, they have known this since the 70's when they started to make synthetics. I wouldn't worry about it though as many people run synthetic oils and never see problems. I wouldn't run synthetics in a rotary though as it doesn't burn off like a mineral will.

If you have the time and want to know some more info on oils and their additives etc. check out these links

Motor Oil Bible

Bob is The Oil Guy

Motor Oil Myths and Facts

The first one is in PDF format and around 170 pages but it is the most comprehensive and full of good info.

[some_cs_student]

So at this stage I am leaning towards Redline... probably 5w30 unless I'm told otherwise. It works out stupidly expensive (currently $25/L off performancelub, despite quotes of it being much cheaper a while ago in this thread ), but if it's the right choice thats OK.

PM me if you can't find the SAU code that Harold has, he offers discounts to SAU members at Performancelub, BUT prices did go up from Redline and our Aus dollar is weak so Redline is costly, if you have the money use the best you can, if not group IV oils do well for most people, and one of the Motul's is a mix of group IV and V and supposed to be pretty good, see first page.

[bumble_bee]

hey i got a '96 33gtst wit mild mods.. wit around 260hp at rear wheels...and i got about 110,000k's on the clock,,,

so i was thinking of switch to full synthetic oils...

im using penrite 10-50 rit now...

so would oil would be a good change ova wit.

castrol edge 5-30 or motul 4100 turbolight is what ive bein looking at..

but ive only started looking...

but any advice would b great..

oh plus...

do i gota do an engine flush?

or can i put the oil straight in, without running into problems?

thanks