The Goods On Oils

[Birds]

Don't worry about missing out though, if AutoBarnz aren't flogging it then Supercheap usually are...it's forever a loss leader oil...

[KrazyKong]

It's normally $12 at Ricebarn and about the same a Big W or K-Mart. I remember you saying a little while ago Birds how this GW XMP was as good as the Castrols etc. From Galois exploits it sounds like Castrol Magnatec sucks lol. And the funny thing I bet the XMP is better than Castrol for the price of fries and a shake!

[Galois]

+1 sougi fan lol, it revs again!!!

[KrazyKong]

Now for some Bosch plugs and she'll be screaming again in no time.

[Birds]

Agreed, your roughness in high RPM could have also been caused by ignition issues...you running aftermarket coilpacks and decent plugs?

Good to hear you're on the Sougi wagon

Yer it's as good as Castol GTX...well...Castrol GTX is good in the right vehicle lol. You can't expect a 20w50 mineral to do well on the import scene

$12 is about the normal price of it, and that's still with very little profit margin on it for the retailer. Another thing that makes it cheaper than the others is the 4 litre packaging, as opposed to 5 litre.

[pipster11]

went down to get some and they had sold out already

looks like GW could be on the up

[Galois]

sparkplugs are ngk coppers with 3000km on them

coilpacks are stock. can't justify spending 500-600 on a non essential upgrade at the moment unfortunately. i have had coilpack issues but there isn't much i can do sadly

will go to bosch plats at 0.8 gap next to see if it fixes the occasional ignition problems

[Birds]

Coilpacks make a massive difference man, highly recommend them...I know they're not hte most affordable things but you can get Yellow Jackets for $400ish which are very good. My ignition never misses a beat.

[KrazyKong]

sparkplugs are ngk coppers with 3000km on them

coilpacks are stock. can't justify spending 500-600 on a non essential upgrade at the moment unfortunately. i have had coilpack issues but there isn't much i can do sadly

will go to bosch plats at 0.8 gap next to see if it fixes the occasional ignition problems

If your running at stock boost leave them at 1.1. There's no need to gap them at 0.8 unless the car is missing.

[Galois]

If your running at stock boost leave them at 1.1. There's no need to gap them at 0.8 unless the car is missing.

the ignition problems involve missing.

how do those yellow jackets compare to splitfires?

[KrazyKong]

Have you tried running your sparkies at 1.1? or just put them to 0.8 by default. You're car is pretty much stock, so running them at 0.8 could quite possibly be the cause of your missing problems. I would put the Bosch Plats in, leave them at 1.1 and see how it runs. I was convinced from all the reading on here that I had to have the 0.8 gap for my car. But then discovered the larger the gap, the better the spark. People only gap them down due to having huge boost pressures and aftermarket turbos. You're stock, leave them at 1.1 and see how it runs.

[Galois]

i have 1.1's in atm and they go well most of the time. i get this ignition error msg just before it starts missing and popping like a wrx, which means coilpacks need replacing, i just wanted to see if a smaller gap would cause the error msg and popping problem to come up less often...

coilpacks are pretty high on the list, but i can't quite make it atm, esp as im working less with uni exams coming up...

im really liking the sougi, im noticeably revving higher now haha. it gets up through the revs easier, it actually feels as if it revs up quicker, but that could always be the effect of a smoother, quieter, nicer sounding engine just making the driver happy.

im gonna send gw another letter along the lines of "holy crap please don't kill sougi!"

[Birds]

the ignition problems involve missing.

how do those yellow jackets compare to splitfires?

Good, I've heard nothing but good reports about YJ's. Splitfire are awesome in their own right but I challenge someone to tell the difference between the two (besides the colour). Get them and use 1.1mm plugs and you'll be running sweet.

Engine probably does rev up faster...smooth is fast and there's less inertia with a light synthetic oil like Sougi.

[Moodles2]

If anyone is looking for Sougi S 6000 here in SA, the distributor in Para Hills has 12 bottles left when I called Thursday ($60 per bottle), PM me if you want their contact details.

[Kam-80]

My contribution to the oil thread...

Initially I used Castrol Edge 0w40 but whenever the car went to the track I found the oil pressures at idle dipping under 100kpa after the third of fourth session. Oil temps were also in the unhappy-range, peaking at 138-degrees. Ambient was quite high that day, about 30-degrees.

Anyway the next track day I switched to 300V and idle pressure improved to around 120kpa, with peak temperatures of around 130-degrees, although the temperature ont the day was only in the mid 20s. Now my car is FI and I'm running 50/50 mix of 10w40 and 15w50, the last track day the car didn't get past 120-degrees and idle oil pressures were also steady at 120kpa. It was colder again though, 20-degrees ambient or thereabouts.

So I will be using 300V on the track and something like 8100 Xcess for the road...

[Galois]

if sougi stays in production you can get 300V quality (in terms of grade at least) a lot cheaper than 8100, just if you're interested

[Galois]

how does mixing oils go?

oils are soluble within eachother and that a simple weighted adding of two different viscosities is a good enough approximation, but is it possible for the additives to negatively interact to randomness? i have 500mL lots of like 5 different oils and have been wondering if i could gradually (or quickly) mix them into my bro's camry

on a side note, after that gw sale he has PLENTY of oil haha

Edited June 2, 2010 by Galois

[Birds]

Yeah you could mix them and use them in an older car / a car you don't really care about - it will work okay but it's not going to be optimal protection particularly if they are all different grades. Additives will have negative effects on each other, but moreso because there's not enough of one oil for each oil's additives to do their job properly. To be honest I'd only ever mix two oils together at the most, and temporarily - for example, if your car was low on oil and you had to stop by the servo to top it up.

Coolant is the one you really don't want to be mixing

[TUF250]

Hi guys,

I have a R33 gts-t with 86k on the clock. I have been running the nulon 10w40 synthetic in it.

keep in mind the car is sriven daily, not abussed (gets a boot full from time to time only) and the oil is changed every 5000 on the dot!

It seems here the motul is the favourite. I had a look in autobarn and the motul turbolight 4100 seems to be the compeditor price wise to the nulon. which would people consider to be the better choice in my application? is the motul a lower grade semi-syn than the nulon? temperature wise?

any thoughts welcome

[KrazyKong]

TUF if you're going to choose between the 4100 and Nulon, go the 4100. I think it's currently on sale right now at Ricebarn for the next few days.

However if you want a better oil and a true fully synthetic oil (the nulon is not a fully synthetic despite their packaging claims) locate some Gulf Western Sougi S6000. Find a distributor in your area and you'll be able to get 5L for $60 or thereabouts. This oil is group 5 and on par with some of the best around (300V) for half the price.