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supercheap and autobarn are about $33 for snyx3000 down here

bloody good for that price too

currently running "motormax" in the dirty 30 (i think its just a 5 litre version of the 20w50 that is usually in the 4 litre bottles)

lifters are still a little noisy on startup, might have to do a flush before the next change

supercheap and autobarn are about $33 for snyx3000 down here

bloody good for that price too

currently running "motormax" in the dirty 30 (i think its just a 5 litre version of the 20w50 that is usually in the 4 litre bottles)

lifters are still a little noisy on startup, might have to do a flush before the next change

maybe i should go swipe a few bottles of the shelves at repco then.

unless birdsie here can do me a better price. willing to pay in wagyu.

lol. 26$ gulf western synx 3000 actually feels pretty good.

Because it IS good lol. I've stopped distributing for GW now, but I still have a fair few bottles of Syn X 6000 left which I'm using at the moment and highly recommend.

Syn X 6000 probably won't be in many retail shops but you should be able to order it through them. I have a heap of bottles so happy to supply until that runs out.

Cut off distributorship cause GW started putting their oils in Repco - some of my trade customers were able to buy the oil slightly cheaper from Repco than they could from me. They give no f***s for distributors so we stopped.

oh. yeah, that was a dick move from them then.

and repco is basically spoiling the market hey? good for consumers like me. but well unfortunately, not good for you.

i'll go swipe some of those 26$ synx3000 first, before i hit you up for the 6000, i'm still putting out stock power, so no sense using a full synth

i'll go swipe some of those 26$ synx3000 first, before i hit you up for the 6000, i'm still putting out stock power, so no sense using a full synth

That's not what you use a full synth for, full synth extends the service interval and good ones contain engine life extending additives that you won't find in mineral oils.

Whatever the person who rebuilt your engine recommends (SAE grade and/or brand). Rebuilt engines can have different tolerances for a certain weight of oil. If it's just a bog stock rebuild driven around streets then any good 5w40 or 10w40.

That's not what you use a full synth for, full synth extends the service interval and good ones contain engine life extending additives that you won't find in mineral oils.

so how long can i extend the service interval with the synx 3000? i currently change it at 8, but if i can do it at 10, even better.

so how long can i extend the service interval with the synx 3000? i currently change it at 8, but if i can do it at 10, even better.

Don't be such a tight ass, ditch it after 5,000km. You can take a good full synth like Sougi or Syn-X 6000 to 10,000km.

so how long can i extend the service interval with the synx 3000? i currently change it at 8, but if i can do it at 10, even better.

Depends how much the motor is worth and what you do with it.

If it is a stock rb20 and you drive it on the street only Id see no issue with running a semi synth to 20,000kms, the oil will be well and truley f**ked by then, but it won't matter as the motor will most likely die from detonation (due to incorrect tuning) or oil starvation from drifting before natural wear and tear takes it out.

If it is even a new neo 25 with low kms that you track once again you'll kill it before the natural wear and tear takes it out.

In fact unless you plan on the motor lasting for 300,000kms or it is a drag/track/ $20,000 rebuilt you can put basically whatever shit you want in it and it won't matter, the money you save on oil changes you can put towards a replacement motor.

For example 50,000kms of full synthetic oil changes at 5k intervals could buy you a second hand neo rb25, so by using shit oil you can put the money towards an UPGRADE

Moral of the story, whatever you do don't spend more than $50 on oil and don't change it more often than 10,000kms, it isn't value for money.

the question is how long does it take you to reach 5000km.....i do about 5000-8000km a year so i change my oil about once a year. Whats $100 oil change once a year with the good synthetic stuff.....after 10 years i wouldnt have enough to buy a NEO RB25DET at todays prices which are about 1500-2000 dollars. If you rack up 15 000km a year (about the australian average might be more) then i would see why i would be reaching for the $30 dollar stuff. I did my oil change at 4000km last year because i did so little kilometers during the year i didnt want to be driving with one year old oil in the summer, still looked like new on the dipstick.

Edited by starwarz

I haven't looked into Syn-X 6000, but has it been confirmed as a true 100% synthetic (Group IV PAO basestock), not just marketed as "fully synthetic"?

On another note, I was researching a local company Anglomoil who make an oil called 'Roadmaster 500' (super popular on nissan silvia for some reason) a month or 2 ago and it turns out it's just a Group III oil. I was hoping it might be a hidden gem like Sougi S6000 since it was priced like S6000 and it being a "full synthetic".

I have noticed recently that the auto shops in town have stopped stocking a lot of the more boutique oils like Motul (at least 300v and 8100 Xcess).

Bloody mechanic put Castrol Edge 25w50 in my VZ, and the blasted thing ticks like a clock when cold (sticky lifters like the other 99% of them)

Had read some interesting stuff about the quality of Castrol Edge 10w60 from the Mainlube guy on LS1, who had empirical evidence to suggest that it was in fact a top rate Group 4 oil. I do know a number of Skyline owners who use that oil, but thought it would be worth mentioning, given I had always thought Edge was a Group 3 and not all that much good.

Unfortunately its now about the same price as the 8100 XCess and I'll need 9 litres of it lol

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