Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

engo, try Redline Lightweight Shockproof

dori32, stop smocking crack, get a 0w or 5w oil. Piss off the penrite, elf i don't know about. I believe they do have some grp4 and higher oils.

Let's all make this simple. Go here...

www.performancelub.com

if you don't want to splash for Redline, get Royal Purple, German Castrol (Castrol Syntec) 0w30 (other weights "may" be made from grpIII and made in the U.S.) or Mobil 1.

If not those, get some Motul 300V i think is grp4 and the one cubes uses 8100 or whatever, i believe is about one of the cheapest grp4's. Check the thread, it's all there. Motul can be found locally off the shelf.

apprently 10w-40/15w-40 is recommended for RB's?

narrowing it down to these 2..

Penrite Sin oil 15 15w-40

elf competition GT 10w-40............

I am more interested in who recommended you these oils with these viscosity rating?

As I remember RB is using OEM 7.5W30...so I will recommend looking at Castrol Edge Sport or Mobil1 in 5W30 viscosity rating. These have no problem lasting 5000km OCI.

QUOTE(dori32 @ 18 Sep 2008, 08:47 PM)

apprently 10w-40/15w-40 is recommended for RB's?

narrowing it down to these 2..

Penrite Sin oil 15 15w-40

elf competition GT 10w-40............

I am more interested in who recommended you these oils with these viscosity rating?

As I remember RB is using OEM 7.5W30...so I will recommend looking at Castrol Edge Sport or Mobil1 in 5W30 viscosity rating. These have no problem lasting 5000km OCI.

it was on page 15-17 in this tread..

pretty interesting how one person says use this and another says use that..

ill stick with what nissan recommends and go off that.

thanks mesoglea, i thought about use 5w30 but wasnt so sure.

Edited by dori32
it was on page 15-17 in this tread..

pretty interesting how one person says use this and another says use that..

ill stick with what nissan recommends and go off that.

thanks mesoglea, i thought about use 5w30 but wasnt so sure.

That is the reason why it is important to go through all 40ish pages of this thread. I am sure that OEM viscosity rating has been mentioned multiple times. Applying the logic, one would think that 15W-40 is fairly outside the OEM spec especially at room temperature. From a 7.5W to 15W.

While the some of the recent posts have mentioned 5W30 and a lot of people have been happy with this viscosity. 5W30 also spreads over the 7.5W30 quite perfectly.

Read, use common sense and make your own judgement.

I'm a big fan of Mobil1. I'm starting to see that there are better lubricants available.

The higher the flash point the better according to Fujji Dynamics.

He also recommends the higher viscosity for protection.

hello i have recently purchased my skyline R33 GTS-T 1996 and i am coming up on an oil change. i would like if any1 could give me a no bs answer on what oil i should use. i live on the sunshine coast in QLD so it never really get cold here. a am not really worried of the price of the oil as my car is a i have hahahahahhaha so i am willing to buy anything within reason. ny advice would be good

Seriously man read the thread.

Motul 300V Chrono 10W40, if money is not a problem ($99 for 4L in most places). 300V is the only oil in the world (which im aware of) that uses double Ester's and Motul was the first oil company to use Ester based technology. Seriously the fact that this oil thread is up to 49 pages is a bit of a joke.

If you are on a modest budget use something like Motul's 4100 Range, Castrol Edge, Royal Purple etc.

If you dont care how much you spend on oil, use 300V. Simple as that.

Thread closed :mellow:

What's wrong with 10W40. Maybe down south where you get freezing conditions a 5W30 would be more appropriate but up in QLD and hot climates a 10W40 is more appropriate. Most people i know with high powered cars swear by 300V, myself included and just because Redline is dearer doesn't mean it is better. Only reason it is so dear is cause its expensive to get into the country from the states compared to Motul. (we sell both at work).

Edited by PM-R33
Seriously man read the thread.

<cut>

Seriously the fact that this oil thread is up to 49 pages is a bit of a joke.

<cut>

Thread closed :cool:

Lol, thread closed? If you seriously want to improve the thread you can contribute to the first page by writing something useful and hitting the report to moderator button.

The best we can do is try to keep the first page up-to-date as a summary of the thread, there's no point closing it as there is lots of useful info. that people don't have time to read.

The thread closed was a joke, ffs.

It's just pointless having some one ask every day "i just bought a R32 GTR, what oil should i use" etc. when it has been said a million times before hand in the thread.

The first page contains good info and so does the entire thread, however its all over the place and no one reads it all. Some one (if no one wants to i can), break down what the oil symbols actually mean and stand for,

eg. 10W40 (w stands for winter, not weight) etc. and explain what different viscosity's do what ie. track car running high oil temps, street cars, running an engine in, different climates etc.

So people can understand it a bit more and pick what oil suits them, better than having this thread increase to 100 pages that no one reads and just adds too.

Edited by PM-R33
  • 2 weeks later...
The thread closed was a joke, ffs.

<cut>

The first page contains good info and so does the entire thread, however its all over the place and no one reads it all

<cut>

So people can understand it a bit more and pick what oil suits them, better than having this thread increase to 100 pages that no one reads and just adds too.

Its hard to tell when your joking online, I can't detect sarcasm in text.

Agreed on the other points, if you find anyone with the knowledge and time to break it down to simple to understand language that would be great :banana:

We should possibly start a thread on what oils people use and what temp. there cars see, but it will probably end up worse than this thread everyone will be running a different setup...not sure if its worth starting a new thread on.

Yes this thread is pretty messy now, but I don't know if anyone wants to volunteer to go through it and delete the junk out of it, there's never a definite opinion on what to use only a large list of recommendations and that's the problem on a public forum, its not a group of experts its public opinion.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, just a quick question on which Motul 300V to use:

300V Chrono 10W40 vs 300V Power 5W40

R34 GTR

Melbourne

Daily driver + occasional track work

Oil temp up to 95. No oil cooler.

Thanks.

Seriously man read the thread.

Motul 300V Chrono 10W40, if money is not a problem ($99 for 4L in most places). 300V is the only oil in the world (which im aware of) that uses double Ester's and Motul was the first oil company to use Ester based technology. Seriously the fact that this oil thread is up to 49 pages is a bit of a joke.

If you are on a modest budget use something like Motul's 4100 Range, Castrol Edge, Royal Purple etc.

If you dont care how much you spend on oil, use 300V. Simple as that.

Thread closed :D

300V Power should have a closer viscosity range to OEM than Chrono.

However, as stated in Motul website, I do not know why Power cannot be mixed with other oil whereas Chrono can.

they use different addatives which may react poorly when mixed.

Redline still for me after many years, I used 10W40 these days, sees about 10-15 track days a year, running 270-280 rwkw in a rwd and still stock internals with no big end failure...so in my opinion, redline wins. Hot lap temps are still below 100 deg C with a 10 row cooler.

  • 2 weeks later...

quick question, my 33 needs a topup of oil (isnt completly depleted but could do with a topup)

would it be better to just drain the old oil and start fresh, or could i top up with something else. i dont knwo what they used before i got it cos iv only had my car about 6 months.

from having a flick through this thread im guessing 5W 30, seems as i live down in southern vic where it does get cold. however approaching summer where it tends to get warm-ish down here im almost tempted to go 10W 40...what would you all recomend? im on a modest budget, but if its worth spending the extra then i might just.

car is an R33 GTS25 (non turbo)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...