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After endless "best oil" searching and no discernable conclusion looking likely , ever, I went with a Valvolene 10-30 semi syn which behaved like flushing oil when hot according to my oil pressure gauge so I rissoled it after 20ks and having read every oil bottle label in Autobarn that seemed remotely relevant I to decided on the Nulon 10-40 fast flow fullsyn and so far it's looking good, nice hot /cold oil pressures and the engine sounds comfortable.

Not at all technical but seems as good a yard stick as many I've read.

:rolleyes:

+1

Been running nulon 10w40 full syn for 2 years now and I'm also happy with it. I changed oil and filter every 5000k, then after rebuild did it every 3000k, and straight after track days. Also happy with cold and hot running pressures and engine is smooth.

i have a 2000 r34 gtt, manual with 80,000km and was after some gearbox oil, ive looked for a long hard time and are having trouble making sence of things.

i just want to know what to get? how many litres and how much roughly it is, im in vic, eastern suburbs

Also was looking at castrol motor oil for the engine but they dont offer a full synthic 5-40w?

Hmm fair enough. I'm pretty sure the Motul rep we used to have said 4100 was a group III. I also got told Motul don't make anything below a group III, yet on that list it lists a group II?

whoever told you is wrong we only NOW make group 4 oils and up as we discontinued all our 400 motion and 2000 mineral range in package line

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke20.html

That clearly states that 4100 is a semi-synth

well it is in acea (European) standards as thats what Motul go by as to them anything but 100% synthetics are semis it's quite complicated .......

  • 2 weeks later...
I'm using Castrol Formula R 5W-30 (full synth). It costs $50 for 5 litres from Auto 1.

Edit: I no longer use the above oil. Not so much for the thickness of the oil but mostly because I think it's hell dodgy for a synthetic oil. I gave up using Castrol long ago.

Do a search, The engine oil bible, it's worth a read.

There is tons of stuff on the web when it comes to oil.

Can anyone help me?

My car is just a fairly stock 33 gtst(just got exhaust and a pod filter). It is never tracked and isnt driven much harder than the average prius, though I very occasionally engage in a bit of spirited driving. Most of my trips are quite short though average drive would be about 5km. I am about to do the first oil change on it since my ownership which is ~8500kms since last owner did it.

Which oil should I be using, preferably would like something not too expensive, $80 for 5L would be about my limit if possible. I was thinking also 10w40 grade? is this good for the application. Also would like to know where I can buy some decent oil in perth as I cant find anything other than just basic supercheap auto stuff

If its a stockish R33 GTST and your changing often you could go a cheaper oil, Performancelub (see signature) sells quality oil with cheap shipping.

I personally use German Castrol 0w30 in a GTR and it was good, I'm also trying Amsoil 10w40 although its a little more expensive.

hey all

i stupidly picked up some Mobil 1 0w40 oil for the R34 the other day (after being told any decent synthetic will do). now im being told it could be too thin for the engine

so should i take it back and get something like 5w or 10w?

as far as im concered.. the lower the cold weight the better....

u want thin oil at start up = fast lubrication of the engine and its not like you will trash the car when its cold.

Whoever told you its too "thin" doesnt know what they are talking about.

btw the difference between 0 and 5 is literally nothing.

I Currently use Motul Turbolight 4100 10w40 in my R32 Gts-t for day to day driving and am very pleased with it... :cool:

But I want to start some track/drift work :banana: so,

What viscosity Motul oils do you guys recommend for track use?

you' be surprised how many mechanics, shop assistants etc will tell you that a 5w or 0w oil is "too thin" for an RB motor.

Probably is for an rb30 or an old redtop rb20. My rb30s and old rb20 both leaked when using 5-40 fully synth. When I put 10-40 semi synth in them they stopped burning and leaking oil.

Protection wise theres no such thing as too thin oil, but on an old motor with poor tollerances too thin oil will leak and get in places it shouldn't.

Edited by Rolls

hey guys just about to do a motor oil change and last service i used castrol. but was looking for a change.. seen today the nulon looked decent.. anyone have any recommendations on whats worth a good go..

i own an r32 gtr pushin 300kw+ or thereabouts at wheels.. its now daily driven and also gets a decent revvin here and there :)

oh and its done just over 80000ks..

cheers

Corey

  • 2 weeks later...

I know nothing about oils and have no mechanical qualifications outside of , I hope , common sense and 45 years of driving experiance and DIY servicing .

After reading a shit load of posts it would seem to me the problem is one that is inherant with the RB engines and that is that the pump shoves all the oil into the top of the block/head and as the oil can't drain back fast enough so the bottom end 'can' starve resulting in spun bearings and all sorts of mischief.

Basicly what this would seem to mean in a practical sense is that an engine that should be good on 15x50 in summer and 10x40 in winter (never mind the syn v dino atm) actualy has a manufacturers spec of 7.5 x 30 so that it's thin enough to actualy drain back and not cause bottom end starvation , what a crock, 7.5 x 30 what were they thinking ?

Living in SE Qld I am lucky enough to not to have to worry to much about wildly excesive high/low temperatures,sure we get a couple of chilly ones and a few hot ones so good ole common sense says to me no floggy when too hot/cold.

As the average ambient temp is consistantly higher here that the manufacturers would have likely planned for in most of these cars I have gone for 10 x 40 Nulon Hi Flow Full Synthetic (as I posted previously) .

The price is good, the oil specification seems on the money and the results seem fine with a good hot/cold oil pressure, smooth running engine and a fuel consumption of 13.3ltr 100klms.(98 R34GTT)

I now wait with baited breath for someone to shoot down my methodoligy :D

Corey is that a genuine 80,000kms or is that just what the speedo says?

Mark

not entirely certain mate, car was imported by a mate whom imports personally.. he hasnt got a yard tho..

and when i got it 2 yrs ago it had 60000 on it then, i saw all the auction paperwork stating grade 4 etc., my interior is spotless. underneath is perfect. it came with everything very standard on it..

but in saying that i dont know how else to tell..

it came in very good condition.. no real wear in all the usual places..

thinking about using nulon.. seems to be decent from what im reading..

Wow, sounds like a winner mate, nice. That condition is a pretty good indicator. The odometer rarely lines up once it has been rewound. Plus, the purchase price may be an indicator as guys selling good cars will not sell them for same as the old clunkers, and it's hard (not impossible) to pass off an old clunker as a good car.

Nulon 10-40W sounds like the ticket. Well, any 10-40 but if Nulon floats your boat, then go for it. I'm no oil expert, yet I never had any dramas relating to oil or ever sat there thinking "...if only I bought the Royal Purple..."

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