Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I tried 20litres of E10 (10% ethanol, 98RON rated Mobil fuel) in my car and the bloody thing changed its behaviour! I was somewhat shocked that such a low %age mix would, but it most definitely does. Its enough of a change to trigger me into coming on here to ask - is it safe to use on a Skyline?? I have the technology to check the tune etc - but there is no where that I have found to verify if Skylines (R33 GTS-25t in my case) are sweet to use with it.

Thoughts? Have anyone here used it on their Skyline for any length of time? I love the way the car reacts to the stuff and if I can keep using it, sweet!

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I won't use it in any of my cars , I won't even use 10% , never mind 85%. Next time you fill up have a good look at the pump nozzle , white stuff all over it= very corrosive .

I won't use it in any of my cars , I won't even use 10% , never mind 85%. Next time you fill up have a good look at the pump nozzle , white stuff all over it= very corrosive .

It really depends on how the car is tuned. If you get your car tuned with 98 octane, then thats whats gonna get you the best results. Some people have great results with E10 and others cant stand it, and you can put it down to engine characteristics and tunes...

Same goes with the e85 however you're fortunate enough to get a *bunch* of extra power... I read an article Martin Donnon wrote about his experiment with E85, he claimed a 40kw gain on some cars, which makes me sit up and take notice.

The downside being, if you tune your car for E85, then you might be stuffed if you cant find any and have to settle for premium (settle for premium. hah.) From what I understand the ethanol burns cleaner so for those of us who just drive around the place, it means less exhaust dust to clean off our rear bumpers ;P Possibly it could be beneficial for those who have been stung by emissions laws...

You'll only get 80-90% of the range compared to petrol due to the density of the liquid (I think) but if they make it readily available I don't see what the problem is. I'd happy get my GTR tuned for it, provided it didnt kill the seals, pumps, etc... much more preferable to LPG.. plus there is that $ incentive, 50c a liter is a big saving imho :sick:

-D

Yeah but with the joy of a PFC, just globally add a few degrees of timing overall, and a bit more injector correction and the tune can pretty much go across two sets of fuel if you know what your doing :sick:

Could probably do it with other ECU's also, but i know the PFC takes about 30 seconds.

Yeah but with the joy of a PFC, just globally add a few degrees of timing overall, and a bit more injector correction and the tune can pretty much go across two sets of fuel if you know what your doing :whistling:

Could probably do it with other ECU's also, but i know the PFC takes about 30 seconds.

Yeah well fortunately mine is tuned at a pretty safe ~11.6:1 on BP98 so what keeps me happy on "normal" fuel keeps me well well entertained with E10 in there. I am pretty tempted to try a back to back dyno comparison with 98RON E10 and conventional 98 actually, I'm adamant there is a reasonable difference.

but i'm not willing to have a 95% correct tune for 2 types of fuel

you prooooobably could run a 2n'd pfc with a switch :D

are there ecu's that run all vehicles street bit'n'bobs (climat con etc etc) like pfc / haltech that can hold more than 1 individual complete tune?

maybe some sort of hand held palm type thingy that can run dataloggit could be an option?, otherwise you really need a laptop handy!

price in adelaide went up to 149.9, but, still it's got that loving feeling back in the skyline (atm) !!

  • 1 month later...

There is a massive market waiting here.

Maybe now finally aftermarket engine management systems will be allowed!

in most cases they can be tuned to run spot on, cleaner and better running engines which equal power and a saving in fuel.

Most new cars can be flash tuned and are ready to go be tweaked, some older cars can possibly have the stock ECU tricked to run the e85.

But installing an aftermarket ECU on a skyline, vl turbo, supra ect should give both sides a win EPA vs Tuner.

Having this aftermarket flexibility will a lot plugin\switch flicking fuel selection depending on availability.

Some things of issue that should be looked into would be:

(if you know the answers please post)

Effects on Catalytic converters.

Engine parts and seals.

AFR changes going from 98RON Premium to e85

Emissions

Cylinder and exhaust Temperature

Effect on Injector Spray characteristics

Burn speed and temperature

“add more”

effect on o2 sensor

i have found a link with more details, but i would like to hear this fro more the 1 place can't belive everything we read can we.

http://www.flexfuelkit.com.au/articles/3/1...yths/Page1.html

E85 Ethanol Myths

The term being bandied around for ethanol/petrol blend juice is "Flex Fueled" cars . These are the ones manufacturers set up to self calibrate for any ethanol blend up to 85% (E85) .

It took a bit of searching but what they do is use an electrical conductivity sensor in the fuel circuit to tell the brain what the ethanol content/percentage is .

Obviouslt the ECU needs alternative mapping in order to be able to change AFR's and ignition timing settings , not surprisingly late Vomit door V8 ECUs have it but Aus spec ones need an edit to enable them .

The grey area with running higher than E10 blends is how the different properties of ethanol can affect your fuel system . Alcohol being hygroscopic (readily absorbs water) can be corrosive particularly to aluminium though most Skylines appear to use steel fuel rails and hard lines from what I've seen .

I have searched and had no luck with trying to find ethanol compliant EFI rubber hose so I have to assume quality new hose is alright . I did read that with the arrival of ULP back in 85 standards changed for fuel hose because of the nasties ULP has in it . This is significant because there would be pre ULP cars out there with older hose and it may not appreciate having apple juice (LOL) pumped through it late in life .

Best idea I think is to replace all fuel hoses of unknown age just to be safe .

Fuel pumps tend to be made from Aluminium so if your up for a new one check to see if its able to pump ethanol fuel blends , I intend to keep an eye out for flex fuel cars to see what fuel system components can be used with our cars .

SK Gary mentioned to me a while back that in the methanol race fuel days there was some kind of (I think sintered bronze) in line strainer that passed alcohol but not water , I'd really like to know more about these because a device that continuously separated water from alcohol fuel blends would help keep the fuel (and system) clean .

There has been some mention of high ethanol petrol blends possibly attacking the lining in the metalic fuel tanks of older cars .

The rule of thumb seems to be that the later (newer) a car is the better the chances of it having an ethanol blend compatible fuel system .

As for buying fuel , don't just assume that "E10" from anyone is 95/96 octane , a lot of it I found ran like mouthwash so make sure you ask what the octane rating of the "E10" is .

My daily water cooled Dak Dak runs fine on AP's 95 E10 and the price is good , my R33 gets Shell V 96 mainly because fuel sits in it for longish periods of time and ethanols liking for water means it may not get used before it got a bit tacky .

Roll on the Generals Alcodoore , at least E85 should become more readily available then .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...