Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

After 4 years of driving as a daily it's finally time to pull the rb out and see how it's going.

The timing belt tension was not right when it was replaced a while back and it seems to have worn the crank gear and thrown out cam timing.

Even after the belt was retensioned it skipped again and ended up 3 teeth out on both cams when crank was at TDC.

It felt like a really laggy car when this happened and slow. Top end rpm and peak power wasn't affected, but I had barely any vacuum on the gauge at idle due to the slipped belt.

To add to that, the harmonic balancer has seized on the crank due to the bolt being loose. The key and keyways are still lined up though.

Will pull it off when I put some dry ice in the front of crank and heat up balancer.

Engine is still stock internally other than cams, so it will be interesting to see how it's going inside. It has and engine number that is common with r33 GTR engine serial, so I'm hoping it's the wide oil pump drive crank.

Build up will be mostly stock as it's a daily driver, so new stock pistons, rings, rods will stay. Stronger fasteners and metal gaskets will be used though.

Guess I'll find out when I pull it apart and see what condition it's in.

As you can see space is precious.

I'll post pictures as I go.

Cheers.

post-12712-1214732612_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214732651_thumb.jpgpost-22439-1122995437.jpgpost-12712-1214732716_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214732743_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214732780_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214732827_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1214732690_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

True, not a bad idea to throw a set of slightly tougher pistons in with stock rods. Would be good for a bit more power without costing much more than stock replacements would.

Either way though will be watching thread with interest :D Good luck!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3980443
Share on other sites

Good point about pistons.

I try not to do short trips in this car so maybe I just might bite the bullet and go forged.

It was putting out 352Rwkw with stock bottom end so I just need to find a piston that can run tight skirt to bore clearance and stock rings. Just don't want a slapper.

I have read other posts and CP/ARIAS etc seem to be the go, but any input would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3980646
Share on other sites

Arrr dam sean i need to drop my GTR off there for a few weeks so you can fit the dumps to my Turbos :). Hope all go's well.

Ha ha cheers. Yeah had plenty of practice pulling and swapping turbos in GTR's lol.

Hows your forged engine going?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3982114
Share on other sites

ACL race seies make a great street forged piston. Nice thick top rings to provide a good bore seal to prevent blow-by.

Looked em up a while back, you're on the money.

Can stock rings be fitted?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3982118
Share on other sites

just curious, how long did it take 2 pull engine out? goodluck with rebuild

First time for me so all up it took me nearly 10 hours total with me working on it.

Pain in the proverbial.

A few pointers, I separated g box and left the prop shaft to the front diff in as I couldn't get the shaft nuts undone.

This meant that I had to remove both engine mounts to clear the crossmember.

I forgot about the power steering connector lol.

Front right drive shaft, I pulled the front diff cover off to lever the cv shaft out of the spider gear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3983021
Share on other sites

Any more details with plans for the motor?

Aiming for an engine that is good for street, drag, and touring with no more than 8500rpm and 550-600 hp at the crank.

It was already making 352Rwkw on 17 psi.

I prefer to do this now than when it fails due to something else (piston or spun bearing etc) and cost goes up.

Still sorting out what to do.

But so far plans are:

Disassemble and inspect condition of internals, and clearances.

clean inspect and machine block

Tomei metal gasket kit and 1mm head gasket (8.7:1 comp ratio)

nissan gasket kit

Forged pistons ACL? 86.5mm

stock rings oversize

nissan or N1 bearings

stock rods with tomei bolts

Arp head and cradle fasteners

sump baffle kit

head oil restrictor

new oil pump N1?

inspect and rebuild head

valve guides

stem seals

new n1 springs

port match and cleanup

Edited by GTRsean
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3983044
Share on other sites

I've been advised that the "nissan gasket kit" does not include all of the gaskets but to instead get an ACL kit as it includes everything.

Also instead of using stock rods with tomei bolts why dont u buy some second hand shot peened rods with arp bolts for about $300 (in the forsale section often).

Also get a "100,000km service kit" for about $450 which has the idle bearings, timing belt, cam seals and n1 water pump - cheaper than buying it all seperate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3984066
Share on other sites

Aiming for an engine that is good for street, drag, and touring with no more than 8500rpm and 550-600 hp at the crank.

It was already making 352Rwkw on 17 psi.

I prefer to do this now than when it fails due to something else (piston or spun bearing etc) and cost goes up.

Still sorting out what to do.

But so far plans are:

Disassemble and inspect condition of internals, and clearances.

clean inspect and machine block

Tomei metal gasket kit and 1mm head gasket (8.7:1 comp ratio)

nissan gasket kit

Forged pistons ACL? 86.5mm

stock rings oversize

nissan or N1 bearings

stock rods with tomei bolts

Arp head and cradle fasteners

sump baffle kit

head oil restrictor

new oil pump N1?

inspect and rebuild head

valve guides

stem seals

new n1 springs

port match and cleanup

Cheers for the info! I like this for a change - a good streetable rebuild. Most are completely insane 400+kW builds but this seems like something that's easier to live with.

Your wallet probably loves you right now.

You're happy to leave factory rods in there? I'm with Ben on this one :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3984137
Share on other sites

The gaskets in aftermarket sets suck the big ones. Buy a genuine Nissan exhaust manifold gasket and any engine oil seals you're changing.

Not looking forward to getting the replacement seals, gaskets etc!!

I have already got idler and tensioner bearings from CBC in Eastern Creek a while back.

Have a new gates belt too.

Looking st getting Tomei 1.0mm headgasket and inlet, throttle body, exhaust steel gasket set from Hi Octane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3984615
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...