Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

After 4 years of driving as a daily it's finally time to pull the rb out and see how it's going.

The timing belt tension was not right when it was replaced a while back and it seems to have worn the crank gear and thrown out cam timing.

Even after the belt was retensioned it skipped again and ended up 3 teeth out on both cams when crank was at TDC.

It felt like a really laggy car when this happened and slow. Top end rpm and peak power wasn't affected, but I had barely any vacuum on the gauge at idle due to the slipped belt.

To add to that, the harmonic balancer has seized on the crank due to the bolt being loose. The key and keyways are still lined up though.

Will pull it off when I put some dry ice in the front of crank and heat up balancer.

Engine is still stock internally other than cams, so it will be interesting to see how it's going inside. It has and engine number that is common with r33 GTR engine serial, so I'm hoping it's the wide oil pump drive crank.

Build up will be mostly stock as it's a daily driver, so new stock pistons, rings, rods will stay. Stronger fasteners and metal gaskets will be used though.

Guess I'll find out when I pull it apart and see what condition it's in.

As you can see space is precious.

I'll post pictures as I go.

Cheers.

post-12712-1214732612_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214732651_thumb.jpgpost-22439-1122995437.jpgpost-12712-1214732716_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214732743_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214732780_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214732827_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1214732690_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

True, not a bad idea to throw a set of slightly tougher pistons in with stock rods. Would be good for a bit more power without costing much more than stock replacements would.

Either way though will be watching thread with interest :D Good luck!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3980443
Share on other sites

Good point about pistons.

I try not to do short trips in this car so maybe I just might bite the bullet and go forged.

It was putting out 352Rwkw with stock bottom end so I just need to find a piston that can run tight skirt to bore clearance and stock rings. Just don't want a slapper.

I have read other posts and CP/ARIAS etc seem to be the go, but any input would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3980646
Share on other sites

Arrr dam sean i need to drop my GTR off there for a few weeks so you can fit the dumps to my Turbos :). Hope all go's well.

Ha ha cheers. Yeah had plenty of practice pulling and swapping turbos in GTR's lol.

Hows your forged engine going?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3982114
Share on other sites

ACL race seies make a great street forged piston. Nice thick top rings to provide a good bore seal to prevent blow-by.

Looked em up a while back, you're on the money.

Can stock rings be fitted?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3982118
Share on other sites

just curious, how long did it take 2 pull engine out? goodluck with rebuild

First time for me so all up it took me nearly 10 hours total with me working on it.

Pain in the proverbial.

A few pointers, I separated g box and left the prop shaft to the front diff in as I couldn't get the shaft nuts undone.

This meant that I had to remove both engine mounts to clear the crossmember.

I forgot about the power steering connector lol.

Front right drive shaft, I pulled the front diff cover off to lever the cv shaft out of the spider gear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3983021
Share on other sites

Any more details with plans for the motor?

Aiming for an engine that is good for street, drag, and touring with no more than 8500rpm and 550-600 hp at the crank.

It was already making 352Rwkw on 17 psi.

I prefer to do this now than when it fails due to something else (piston or spun bearing etc) and cost goes up.

Still sorting out what to do.

But so far plans are:

Disassemble and inspect condition of internals, and clearances.

clean inspect and machine block

Tomei metal gasket kit and 1mm head gasket (8.7:1 comp ratio)

nissan gasket kit

Forged pistons ACL? 86.5mm

stock rings oversize

nissan or N1 bearings

stock rods with tomei bolts

Arp head and cradle fasteners

sump baffle kit

head oil restrictor

new oil pump N1?

inspect and rebuild head

valve guides

stem seals

new n1 springs

port match and cleanup

Edited by GTRsean
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3983044
Share on other sites

I've been advised that the "nissan gasket kit" does not include all of the gaskets but to instead get an ACL kit as it includes everything.

Also instead of using stock rods with tomei bolts why dont u buy some second hand shot peened rods with arp bolts for about $300 (in the forsale section often).

Also get a "100,000km service kit" for about $450 which has the idle bearings, timing belt, cam seals and n1 water pump - cheaper than buying it all seperate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3984066
Share on other sites

Aiming for an engine that is good for street, drag, and touring with no more than 8500rpm and 550-600 hp at the crank.

It was already making 352Rwkw on 17 psi.

I prefer to do this now than when it fails due to something else (piston or spun bearing etc) and cost goes up.

Still sorting out what to do.

But so far plans are:

Disassemble and inspect condition of internals, and clearances.

clean inspect and machine block

Tomei metal gasket kit and 1mm head gasket (8.7:1 comp ratio)

nissan gasket kit

Forged pistons ACL? 86.5mm

stock rings oversize

nissan or N1 bearings

stock rods with tomei bolts

Arp head and cradle fasteners

sump baffle kit

head oil restrictor

new oil pump N1?

inspect and rebuild head

valve guides

stem seals

new n1 springs

port match and cleanup

Cheers for the info! I like this for a change - a good streetable rebuild. Most are completely insane 400+kW builds but this seems like something that's easier to live with.

Your wallet probably loves you right now.

You're happy to leave factory rods in there? I'm with Ben on this one :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3984137
Share on other sites

The gaskets in aftermarket sets suck the big ones. Buy a genuine Nissan exhaust manifold gasket and any engine oil seals you're changing.

Not looking forward to getting the replacement seals, gaskets etc!!

I have already got idler and tensioner bearings from CBC in Eastern Creek a while back.

Have a new gates belt too.

Looking st getting Tomei 1.0mm headgasket and inlet, throttle body, exhaust steel gasket set from Hi Octane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226012-engine-out/#findComment-3984615
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...