Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i know most of you will have a shot at me and say its stupid etc etc

But im looking at making my GTR 33 skyline stand out a bit more or give it some "Street Presence". You know stand out...

A new paint job is out as i dont have funds stretching that far....

and im not into huge over the top kits.

I just dont know what to do....

I have a set of grey work XD9s to go on... but aprat from that im up in the air...

below is a side pic of my car.... (boring) and a couple more ummm exciting cars lol.. not nessererly want the stickers every where etc but just shows how boring mine looks in comparison.

post-33454-1214792584_thumb.jpg

post-33454-1214792649_thumb.jpg

post-33454-1214792688_thumb.jpg

post-33454-1214792709_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226096-creating-some-street-presence/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

id lower, thro on some chrome wheels, carbon fiber hood, a decent kit would go alright, nothing too outrageous simple but different if u get me. Ummm u could go a racing wing, but could look a bit ghey if u went to over the top with it. Dark as legal tinted windows (even with a slight purple tinge to it could look nice).

Just some ideas. New paint would be cool in my opinion but just me, and i know funds are hard, but ur driving a GTR so if your gonna do it do it right from the start??

Mitch

Hit it up with some stickers like the orange machine up there. Get the xd9's on and hit the paint work with wax after a good wash, Wax it for the next week as often as possable (wash every time in between) will turn the paint into glass finish. Makes everyone look when its reflective.

Another tip, drive at sunset or sunrise as the angle of the sun makes the car look nice.

If its a R33 just get some rear pods and side skirts fitted up and paint them 400r bar at the front will set it off nicely but I rather like the stocker too. will cost about $1000 or less all up.

A massive exhaust will make people look too but I think thats really reserved for rotaries.

Edited by DECIM8

put new rims on, carbon fiber hood with some form of fins or something, lower it a little bit, and paint the calipers! (only if you want to i guess, but would stand out more gold or red or something)

kinda cheap for the output imo

Yer defiantly nees a polish....

and got the titanium exhaust tip...

will defiantly paint the calapiers before i get it the wheels on. was thinking red and getting some work anodised wheel nuts in red to match it...?

an air horn goin off will give it some street presence.. also fluro pink..

if you aint gonna paint or stickers like those in the pics.. ain't gonna get the street presence.. but a tasteful GTR has a presence anyway.. some nice wheels and coloured calipers, aftermarket bonnet will give it some appeal and distinctiveness without breaking the bank

i dont know what this kinda thing costs but getting some airbrushing or as you said, using a vinyl would be a cheaper option but not as perfect, to get some graphics on like that of the black 350z in tokyo drift in a subtle color, something close to the color of your car perhaps

Edited by RusH_

I suppose it may be a little "ricey" but can be pulled of very nicely..

You have XD9's which arw a great rim. Why not try the pergormance parts brand name down the front of the doors?

Looks pretty decent if you ask me..

I feel like a bit of a hippocrit though.. I beleive if you dont have the parts in your car.. dont adversite you do have them.. but no one is going to know I suppose.

- put new rims on

- lower it

- look at the simple things, like carbon gt style mirrors

- ensure a nice exhaust note

- offset front plate

- look at BeeR carbon kit extensions - they used to be on their site, basically bolt under your kit and stick out about an inch

- put new rims on

- lower it

- look at the simple things, like carbon gt style mirrors

- ensure a nice exhaust note

- offset front plate

- look at BeeR carbon kit extensions - they used to be on their site, basically bolt under your kit and stick out about an inch

hey mate,

do you have a pic of those extensions???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...