Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Belt

gfunkk

By gfunkk,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

enilyks33r Enthusiast

enilyks33r

Posted
Posted

Thats just the change interval sticker, do you have service records? if not assume it has not been changed

Genuine Nissan belts come with a similiar sticker that has the as space for the kms to be written on.

This is then stuck near by so easy to determine belt has been changed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-3989351
Share on other sites
toddlls Proficient

toddlls

Posted
Posted

Yes it should mean that belt was changed, but, the only way to know for sure is to take the cover and have a look yourself. I have recently done a timing belt change and mine was about 40,000k's old when the 100k service was due, (damn those skyline odometers are spot on lol), Undo the fan and remove then you will have some space to get cover off(may need to take belts off also) mark all things that your not sure of with alignment lines to help put it back as you found it ie cam-timing sensor. You can get engine manuals from jpnz for around $150 and I would highly recommend one of those as it will help you save a shitload of cash not having to fork out for a mechanic :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-3989357
Share on other sites
gfunkk Rising Star

gfunkk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys

ive changed a belt before just not sure if that sticker means "100,000 service due soon" or "100,000 service completed"

so guess when the engine is out the cut ill inspect the belt

do worn belts have cracks in them or are they just saggy?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-3989364
Share on other sites
moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
Posted
thanks guys

ive changed a belt before just not sure if that sticker means "100,000 service due soon" or "100,000 service completed"

so guess when the engine is out the cut ill inspect the belt

do worn belts have cracks in them or are they just saggy?

Belts can have many causes they may lead to failure. The way i look at it, at the end of the day a timing belt is seriously one of the cheapest parts you can buy for any car. If in doubt just change it...its going to be a hell of a lot more expensive if it lets go..

Cheers

Cam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-3989907
Share on other sites
toddlls Proficient

toddlls

Posted
Posted
I understood that the sticker was put on at the time-of-manufacture, and was a reminder that the belt needs to be changed at 100k.

Mine doesnt have it, and it would be the first manufacture release I have seen with it, however most service centres here would write next change at 200k or place the sticker to say 100k done like that is. Pull the cover off and have a look, update post and put me outa my misery

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-3990223
Share on other sites
iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted
thanks guys

ive changed a belt before just not sure if that sticker means "100,000 service due soon" or "100,000 service completed"

so guess when the engine is out the cut ill inspect the belt

do worn belts have cracks in them or are they just saggy?

If you start seeing cracks it usually means it is due for a change. However in saying this - the timing belt is a rubber part and it will deteriorate, therefore age can sometimes be of more concern as opposed to Ks. So if your car is older than 10 years old and unsure of the history i highly recommend replacing the timing belt for piece of mind. I also recommend this for hoses too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-3990327
Share on other sites
turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

Ignore what Todd and some others have said, the sticker is informing you WHEN it needs to be changed, NOT that it has been changed.

With regards to Skylines and other imports, you can not determine when or if the belt has been changed, and sometimes even taking the timing belt cover off and checking wont give you an indication of age.

Play it safe, if you dont think it's been changed, GET it changed, the belt it's self (for a Nissan CA anyway) is something like $27.

For a $3k+ rebuild, dont risk the timing belt.

Also, some places have different ways of notifying ysers of the change, either by removing the sticker, or placing a new sticker on informing of the change, my CA powered 180sx, the wanker that did the change simply removed the sticker and scratched a 1 in the timing belt cover to say it was changed once.

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-3994380
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...
zerotohundred Community Regular

zerotohundred

Posted
Posted

sorry to hijack the thread pplz but...i was told to replace the water pump along with the timing belt. wud that be rite? i'm looking to change the belt myself for the first time.. currently downloading the workshop manual. if any1 needs it feel free to send me a pm :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-4568103
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Your timing belt was changed at 63,155 km's.

The Chinese / Japanese character next to the 12 means (Year) and the Chinese / Japanese character next to the 4 mean (Month)

So the timing belt was changed on the 12th Year of the 4th Month...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-4568120
Share on other sites
reNEGaDe88 Proficient

reNEGaDe88

Posted
Posted
Your timing belt was changed at 63,155 km's.

The Chinese / Japanese character next to the 12 means (Year) and the Chinese / Japanese character next to the 4 mean (Month)

So the timing belt was changed on the 12th Year of the 4th Month...

So when was it changed? The RB25DET is from a R33 skyline. So was it changed 12 years after 1996 or in 2002 or what?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-4568211
Share on other sites
gfunkk Rising Star

gfunkk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sorry to hijack the thread pplz but...i was told to replace the water pump along with the timing belt. wud that be rite? i'm looking to change the belt myself for the first time.. currently downloading the workshop manual. if any1 needs it feel free to send me a pm :P

yes people generally change the water pump while doing the belt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-4568227
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
So when was it changed? The RB25DET is from a R33 skyline. So was it changed 12 years after 1996 or in 2002 or what?

post-46584-1241174088_thumb.jpg

I got my parents to translate it for me as they are Chinese.

Ok the Top (last bit) of the sentence translates to "Change of Timing Belt at"... 100,000km"

Not sure what the middle sentence translates too as it is in Katakana (My parents can only read Kanji)

The last sentence translates to "Timing Belt was changed at" (in you case) 63,155km's on the 12th Year and 4th Month.

OK... Most timing belts in Japan would have been changed just before the 80,000 km's mark.

More importantly is the year it was changed. (12th Year of the 4th Month)

The Japanese year system is based on the emperor's reign.

The Showa Period ended in 1988, so a 1989 build car is Heisei 1.

If I have decoded this right,

This year is 21 (1988 + 21 years = 2009)

Your sticker says (12th Year) 1988 + 12 years = 2000

So it seems your Timing belt was changed in the year of 2000 in April.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-4568567
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
post-46584-1241174088_thumb.jpg

I got my parents to translate it for me as they are Chinese.

Ok the Top (last bit) of the sentence translates to "Change of Timing Belt at"... 100,000km"

Not sure what the middle sentence translates too as it is in Katakana (My parents can only read Kanji)

The last sentence translates to "Timing Belt was changed at" (in you case) 63,155km's on the 12th Year and 4th Month.

OK... Most timing belts in Japan would have been changed just before the 80,000 km's mark.

More importantly is the year it was changed. (12th Year of the 4th Month)

The Japanese year system is based on the emperor's reign.

The Showa Period ended in 1988, so a 1989 build car is Heisei 1.

If I have decoded this right,

This year is 21 (1988 + 21 years = 2009)

Your sticker says (12th Year) 1988 + 12 years = 2000

So it seems your Timing belt was changed in the year of 2000 in April.

That makes sense...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226569-timing-belt/#findComment-4568606
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...