Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok well i finished installing my turbo the other night and got it on the dyno... here are the results.

The turbo is a HKS 2530, i was running 10psi boost for this run.

It seems i need a fuel cut defender, and really need to upgrade fuel pump and reg from the standard crap ones i got.

what will be the max power std injectors can push?

what do you think my car will make once ive changed pump and reg? (i am running a std computer with injectors, but havee installed an SAFCII) i dont want to fork out for a complete computer.

I know this turbo's efficiency range is something like 1.2bar - 1.5 or something. i would like to run around 1.1-1.2bar if possible with new pump and reg.

any suggestons, ideas or info to improve its current state would be great.

heres the print out.2530dyno2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22721-dyno-results-with-hks2530/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why did you stop the power-run before 6000rpm? Due to the AFR being way too lean? Why didn't you use the SAFC to richen it up?

My car with stock turbo and injectors made 296rwhp, so I'm sure you can push your injectors to a bit over 300rwhp. A bigger fuel pump and fuel reg will allow about 340rwhp no probs.

Paul, yours does have 500 extra cc's to get there remember :(

bbenny: if youve got an SAFC then you should be able to tune that AFR graph to look a bit better, at the moment it looks like its leaning out toward dangerous at about 6krpm. However the RB20 ecu is very easily reprogrammed, and since your already paying for the dyno time, getting a remap by someone cluey shouldnt cost you too much.

Personally, if you dont plan on making too many changes to maps (like me:D), id sell the SAFC and let the ecu manage everything (probably cheaper and you get to change timing AND fuel maps).

Red17

Sorry, didn't read it was a R32.

I agree with Red17, Those AFR's are very bad, way too lean. I'm sure it will make decent power once the SAFC is tuned, or you have a remapped chip.

The way the dyno graph was pointing I'd guess you'd get 300rwhp easily at 1bar:D

i didnt stop it, it cuts out because its running too lean... i think it needs a fuel cut defender or something.

yeah i was hoping to make 300rwhp on stock injectors.

yeah i was contemplating whether to ditch the SAFC and chip it...

no the engine completely cuts out... so when im driving on the road i have the foot planted and then at around 5500rpm it just cuts out as if i took my foot completely off. its very sudden. its pulling hard then all of a sudden NOTHING.

Holy crap man....look at those AFR's after 4000rpm. Definately get the fuel pump first...and then see how much improvement you get. Standard injectors should be ok for around 210rwkw or so. If i were you i wouldn't be driving over 4000rpm....that's asking for trouble.

Scott

I put money on it been the fuel pump . Mine was the same.

Come into my work and grab a bosche 040 600hp internal.

Sounds like its hitting AFM cut as well which Glen at c-red can get rid of or lucas at speedworks. Don't put a shitty fuel cut defender on it when u can just program it out of the computer.

haha dont worry im not driving it above 4000rpm and ive dropped the boost to std! thanks for the concern guys.

yeah i think i will get the computer tuned.

Chris, im very happy with it so far... once i get the other problems sorted i think it will be shredding all those idiots in WRX's and commodores (even tho it already did, now just rubs it in a little more) hehe

Its the fuel pump!

I had similar 13.5 AFR under load when the fuel pump was dying...

I could see, with a gauge on fuel feed line, the rail pressure was dropping dramatically after 4500.

Upgrade the pump, its easy to do yourself on r32.

fuel pump upgrade link

(You make more power when its running lean like that...well until

it goes BANG anyway ;p)

I like the look of that graph though at only 10psi!

oh yeah, and toshi will sell you a remapped chip with fuel cut removed and mapped (timing and fuel) for bigger turbo

its not perfect though (only $160), as its not dynoed to your particular car but better than stock chip, you could still use the safc to fine tune it further (since you already got it)

or sell safc and get a proper chip remap on a dyno

Redline gtr: im not sure who will tune it at this stage. ive ben getting it the dyno runs at Procar - they are reasonable at $45 for a power run... and about $65 an hr to have A/F tuned...

gts-v-spec: yeah i was considering the drive there :)

yeah well ive already ordered pump and regulator so ill throw it in on monday night and get her back on the dyno and see what happens. if it still cuts out then im going to sell the SAFCII and chip it instead (bugger because i only put the SAFC in 2 days ago! gggrrrr) anyone interested in it? only about 2hrs use ;)

thanks for the instalation info Nissky

Oh and does anyone know a good place in Sydney to have the ECU tuned?

just get a Big fuel pump... dont worry about the Reg just yet.

Just get bigger injectors to go with the pump. And leave it to the stock reg.

Dont get a bigger reg to squeeze the most outta the stock injectors. You wont get much more so its not worth the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...