Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 244
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ill give him full credit once its tuned and running properly... its only idling and light revs atm lol

dont let it idle for too long...id keep it shut down now until you can give it some decent revs with the engine loaded up as this will help the rings to bed properly. Then feed it some boost!!

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I know its hard to have it sit there and not drive it, but you should only turn key when you are ready to drive/tune it. It will give the engine the best possible chance to bed everything in.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I know its hard to have it sit there and not drive it, but you should only turn key when you are ready to drive/tune it. It will give the engine the best possible chance to bed everything in.

that link is how i like to do things...don't baby them...run them hard to give them every possible chance.

  • 2 months later...
hows the update going with this?

any final power figures?

don't quote me but i think it was making boost at 3000rpm and full boost at 4100rpm...they got to 530hp before the dyno shat itself. Ill get Simon to post when proper info comes to hand.

  • 4 weeks later...

first proper dyno sheet 22p 536.3hp at only 7500 start to die off im gonna put it down to the size of the ex housing .81 single entry

he still hasnt touched the cam gear still set at 0 both sides and he said he still hasnt started looking for power. still conservative nearly 550ks to a tank so im pretty happy with it....

response for the size turbo it is is quite insane aswell neways have a gander

post-7443-1253941219_thumb.jpg

yeh ur rite file size is huge lol.... and no its not a run in tune.... thats basically a half done proper tune i had sum minor boost leaks to fix b4 he would push it ne further...... and wen i got back afta tightening a few t bolt clamps etc the dyno had magically arsed itself.... i waited 4 days in total to get the car redone only to try a sidestep of the clutch in 3rd and lets just say we found the weak point.... believe this or not but a hks gd max twin plate slipped b4 the gbox let go..... so yeh i wasted those four days down in brisbane for nuthin. im abit down for cash atm so thats the tune its gettin for the moment until the clutch is done. still tho 402rwkw is still nuthin to snuff ya nose at....

400rwkw is a good number dont get me wrong, but its only 46hp more than my 25 at basically the same boost level with a GT30. Granted im running E85.

I would have though an RB28 with big cams and a T04Z would be making a little more than that, maybe im wrong.

like i said theres still not finished.... havent touched cam gears at all 20p still 5 pound to go and also havent started pushing the timing at all yet its still very conservative. and yes e85 is good shit so ive heard im only on bp ultimate because thats all i can get..... and yeh i wasnt exactly happy with the first figure either but hey its a start and im going from there

Edited by skylinekid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...