Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 244
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ill give him full credit once its tuned and running properly... its only idling and light revs atm lol

dont let it idle for too long...id keep it shut down now until you can give it some decent revs with the engine loaded up as this will help the rings to bed properly. Then feed it some boost!!

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I know its hard to have it sit there and not drive it, but you should only turn key when you are ready to drive/tune it. It will give the engine the best possible chance to bed everything in.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I know its hard to have it sit there and not drive it, but you should only turn key when you are ready to drive/tune it. It will give the engine the best possible chance to bed everything in.

that link is how i like to do things...don't baby them...run them hard to give them every possible chance.

  • 2 months later...
hows the update going with this?

any final power figures?

don't quote me but i think it was making boost at 3000rpm and full boost at 4100rpm...they got to 530hp before the dyno shat itself. Ill get Simon to post when proper info comes to hand.

  • 4 weeks later...

first proper dyno sheet 22p 536.3hp at only 7500 start to die off im gonna put it down to the size of the ex housing .81 single entry

he still hasnt touched the cam gear still set at 0 both sides and he said he still hasnt started looking for power. still conservative nearly 550ks to a tank so im pretty happy with it....

response for the size turbo it is is quite insane aswell neways have a gander

post-7443-1253941219_thumb.jpg

yeh ur rite file size is huge lol.... and no its not a run in tune.... thats basically a half done proper tune i had sum minor boost leaks to fix b4 he would push it ne further...... and wen i got back afta tightening a few t bolt clamps etc the dyno had magically arsed itself.... i waited 4 days in total to get the car redone only to try a sidestep of the clutch in 3rd and lets just say we found the weak point.... believe this or not but a hks gd max twin plate slipped b4 the gbox let go..... so yeh i wasted those four days down in brisbane for nuthin. im abit down for cash atm so thats the tune its gettin for the moment until the clutch is done. still tho 402rwkw is still nuthin to snuff ya nose at....

400rwkw is a good number dont get me wrong, but its only 46hp more than my 25 at basically the same boost level with a GT30. Granted im running E85.

I would have though an RB28 with big cams and a T04Z would be making a little more than that, maybe im wrong.

like i said theres still not finished.... havent touched cam gears at all 20p still 5 pound to go and also havent started pushing the timing at all yet its still very conservative. and yes e85 is good shit so ive heard im only on bp ultimate because thats all i can get..... and yeh i wasnt exactly happy with the first figure either but hey its a start and im going from there

Edited by skylinekid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...