Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

huge night, stripped much of the lancer down tonight. i reckon a full day and it will be ready to head off to the soda blaster!

plan is to offer it as a lease car for targa wrest point and targa tas.

sorry about the crapberry pics...

engine is ready to come out... anyone want lancer gsr parts!

post-5400-1225941186_thumb.jpg post-5400-1225941199_thumb.jpg post-5400-1225941209_thumb.jpg

evo 3 has a little bit of surface rust around the spare wheel well but thats about it. the gsr doesn't have any which is good.

Edited by t01-100

Well I had my 1st practise with James yesterday up at Lake Mountain. Just low speeds in his little Audi A3 but just to get used to listening to someone call notes and also to try and get a better feel for what each size corner actually means (were using the 1-6 scale notes).

I must say it will take sometime to get used to actually listen to whats being said. When it gets real busy I found I zoned out and just concentrated on driving rather than listening - not sure if thats a common thing or not. I was also suprised at how slow a "4" corner is. I think I expected a 4 to be more like what a 4+ or 5 minus is so it was good to get some better understanding on how it all works. But it was a fun bit of road and I can see why it'd be a popular event. Was also funny how the drive up calling notes seemed to take 1/3 of the time of what coming back down did!

Next up we'll go and takle Mt Buller for some more practise. But we should have it licked by the time we get to Tassie :ninja:

The numbers just refer to the angle of the corner which if you look at a pic is basically replicated by this:

1226-pace-notes-graphic1.jpg

The funny thing is that it doesn't necessarily totally relate to the speed of the corner. Depending on the size of the road / exit or more importantly the length of the corner - it is possible for a 3 corner to be faster than a 4 corner for example (although not normally).

But many 4 cornners (at least at Lake Mountain) were quite long so were really quite slow.

Actually Nick if you are interested this is an example of what seem to be some popular notes using the 6-1 scale, as the ones we used on the weekend were similar to this (were Jeff Beaumonts personal notes). As you can see at first glance its pretty full on and it'll take me and James a few goes to fully understand exactly whats written in terms of real world data.

http://tarmacchallenge.com.au/PDFlibrary/2...20VMS_Notes.pdf

... and I can also send you the Vandenberg notes corresponding to the stages.

i suggest don't try and disect the where or why's this early on mate, just watch heaps on in-car and practice practice, it'll become second nature.

As I told Giant, you'll never want to drive anywhere without ya missus calling notes for you, and he totally agrees :D

I'd hate to use someone else's notes. can you do your own pacenoting?

I had a simple system when I started in forest rallying. put a bit of tape around the top of the steering wheel, and make a cardboard cut out to sit behind the wheel with your numbering system on the back - for the above 6 to 1 system, you'd put 6 at 11 and 1 o'clock, 5 at 10 and 2, 4 at 9 and 3, and so on. that would get you to 1 by 6 o'clock. This gives you an indication of the speed of the corner rather than just its angle on paper, because a more open 90degree turn will require less steering lock than a tigher slower 90 degree turn. You really need minimum of 2 passes over the stage - one to note, and the second to check and alter where appropriate. obviously you add your own extra information like + or -, opens, cut, cautions etc. And that's it - pacenoting for dummies. That's how I started, but then again i did roll the car...

Doing your own notes isn't hard but most of us are time poor trying to earn the 20 grand thats needed to do Targa!

Therefore, it makes perfect sense to use a trustworthy notes source such as Vandenbergs, Rally Notes, whatever, AS LONG AS YOU MAKE THE TIME TO CHECK THEM!

So, I half agree Harry, but I'd never use unchecked notes.

Buying good notes saves about half the time of writing your own, and of course you can modify them however you like to suit your particulat style.

I've never had the time (well money same thing) to do my own notes. we only found 1 mistake in the vanderburg notes the year i did it. Kel found no mistakes this year or at TTC.

its pretty different with a fully closed road on semi slicks too. as a starter 2 = 2nd, 3=3rd, 4=4th, 5 and 6 is as fast as you can lol. its not that simple but it was a good guide to start with.

as a starter 2 = 2nd, 3=3rd, 4=4th, 5 and 6 is as fast as you can lol. its not that simple but it was a good guide to start with.

The funny thing is though for Lake Mountain in the little street tyred 1.8T Audi A3 we got into 3rd gear after the second corner and stayed in it for pretty much the entire run up the hill! lol

I can actually see quite a lot of single gear stuff being done in these kind of events. Although I think if you had a flappy paddle you may choose to change more frequently than you would with a standard manual. (Oh but apparently standard manuals are so much better!!!)

obviously Targa Tas would be a huge effort to note yourself or even check a set of purchased notes. If I ever did it I'd buy notes, but I think I'd treat it as a blind rally. I just couldn't trust someone else's notes that much. For short events like Lake Mountain and Mt Buller I'd definitely do my own notes.

obviously Targa Tas would be a huge effort to note yourself or even check a set of purchased notes. If I ever did it I'd buy notes, but I think I'd treat it as a blind rally. I just couldn't trust someone else's notes that much. For short events like Lake Mountain and Mt Buller I'd definitely do my own notes.

Hahahaha, no you wouldn't Harry. I know you, and you wouldn't like coming 200th mate :P

FYI, Doing an entire note check including running over some stages, two, three, or even four times can be done in four to five long days.

The numbers just refer to the angle of the corner which if you look at a pic is basically replicated by this:

1226-pace-notes-graphic1.jpg

The funny thing is that it doesn't necessarily totally relate to the speed of the corner. Depending on the size of the road / exit or more importantly the length of the corner - it is possible for a 3 corner to be faster than a 4 corner for example (although not normally).

But many 4 cornners (at least at Lake Mountain) were quite long so were really quite slow.

Actually Nick if you are interested this is an example of what seem to be some popular notes using the 6-1 scale, as the ones we used on the weekend were similar to this (were Jeff Beaumonts personal notes). As you can see at first glance its pretty full on and it'll take me and James a few goes to fully understand exactly whats written in terms of real world data.

http://tarmacchallenge.com.au/PDFlibrary/2...20VMS_Notes.pdf

thanks Snowy that explains a lot... your a brave man, as much as I would love to do it one day, tarmac rallying scares the crap outta me! we took the long way back from Warnambool after the long weekend and I really like attacking the slower sharper corners but I would imagine pushing big speeds through the fast sweepers would be terrifying... good luck with all the prep

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...