Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just making a few enquirys to fellow skyline members

I have recently blown my standard turbos RB26. i have replaced them with standard items of the same type.

Im not sure if its worth gettin it tuned if it even does anything? Seeing how it will be a standard ECU. My mods are as follows

HKS EVC5 boost controller

3" exhaust turbo back

Split dumps

Pod Filters

Standard computer

" " fuel reg

" " fuel pump etc.

Ive rung up a tuner and been quoted 300buks... im am at the understanding that standard ECU has a Self-Learning capability and was wondering if this would be sufficient for my circumstances. And has anyone had there standard ECU tuned? was it worth the money?

Your Oppionions are Appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228241-300-to-tune-a-standard-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

reset your ecu (disconnect battery / wait half hour) and see if your happy :laugh:

tuning wont acheive too much on a stock ecu... (unless you go to dr drift or someone else who re-maps stockers)

If you've got an adjustable FPR you can get it 'tuned' to some extent. The tuner may also adjust ignition timing for a small gain, etc..

It all depends, if you're happy with your car the way it is.. then i wouldnt worry about it, as its more than safe enough at its stock rich map (depending on what boost you're running) to give a good thrashing.

But, if you want to get the very most out of your current setup (could be another +1kw, or could be +10kw.. depends how the cars currently tuned.. who knows) then $300 is a good investment, to know you're getting the very most efficiency possible from the setup, plus the peace of mind that AFR's are good, etc.

But yeah, imo, at least look at getting some adjustable cam gears, and some form of fuel management (even if its as simple as an adjustable FPR). An safc would be suitable for a cheap upgrade.

Even a quick dyno run with a bit of a trim on the tune will set you back say $3-400, and it they have to retune completely from base map, try $600 and up.

All prices are just an indication, they will vary from shop to shop.

Is he remapping the ECU or just giving you a power run and general inspection/ecu reset/afm clean?

im not real sure if he is remapping the ecu he said he will do some tuning on the dyno and adjust ignition timing if needed, i asked if i had to disconnect the battery would it reset the tune.. and he replied yes but it relearn itself if i do a cold start and warm it upo for a while..

Edited by jarron_87
actually... i'd say buy some sort of fuel management piggyback as a min then deff get it tuned :laugh:

I forgot to mention it has been chipped... gets rid of the speed restrition.. could possiably do something else not sure/ im more concerned about hurting the car driving it around without knowing if its running correctly ... detonation maybe is there anything i should be concerned about?

Edited by jarron_87

basically - if he's not changing anything in the ecu (ie remapping it), then $100 is expensive. If he is retuning it, $600 is cheap. I'm willing to bet he is offering a really expensive $100 dyno run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...