Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all on private roads of course.

lexus ls430 - 240km (hit the speed limiter)

lexus is300 - 200km (hit redline in last gear :-()

nissan silvia s15 - 210km (with not much legs left)

proton satria gti - 205km (redline in last gear)

and my proudest moment

toyota starlet 1.3l - 190ishkm/h (down a big big hill right off the speedo, that was damn scary, i had speed wobbles)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2283-speed/page/2/#findComment-42072
Share on other sites

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by PranK

NismoGirl, did you fix the problem with the car after changing the piping back to norm?

Yeah.. we just put the old pipe back on. It ran like sh*t for about 30 minutes after that but we took it for a squirt around the local streets..

I am taking the car down to the mechanics tomorrow to get it taken off properly. And to get numerous other things fixed.

So if its not running right.. its then not my fault :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2283-speed/page/2/#findComment-42074
Share on other sites

210km/h indicated in a soft top capri turbo BLOODY noisy as one would imagine due to the wind noise, mirrors vibrating etc but wasn't fully wound out think was doing 6000rpm rev limiter @6800 o and obviously this was on a private racetrack cause we all know that it is illegal to do that on the main roads! mates zcar has hit 246km/h not fully wound out due to having to get on the brakes when he caught up to a truck on a hill!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2283-speed/page/2/#findComment-42118
Share on other sites

sealed off section of road, in the gtr 5th gear roun 8000rpm needle was facing in six o'clock position i cant be sure what that would actually be but round 245 or so! Everything after that felt so damn slow:uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2283-speed/page/2/#findComment-42245
Share on other sites

210+ in a suzuki swift GTi, was tracking all over the road pretty badly. I guess the guy who owned it before me and dropped the height by cutting the springs wasn't going for the whole 200+ idea. Dam Qik can confirm this, as he overtook me, I think he was doing around 250 or so. Anyway looked hell cool as he went past

I got my skyline up to 190 45mins after picking it up. Can't wait to cut that pesky little wire, or at least put in a toggle switch.

I don't know about you other guys, but **** "private" roads this was on a public road at 3am in the morning. Good old Bruce Highway.

Haven't done a quarter mile yet, got a few bugs to iron out before I give it a eal good hammering

Tim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2283-speed/page/2/#findComment-42468
Share on other sites

Official top speed is 260km/h the needle just touched the pin at 0 and I worked out that this is about 260km/h.

Fastest 1/4 13.7

Closest miss....Slowing from 220km/h on a "Private" Country road and my rear tyre blew at 180km/h. Didn't notice till much slower and I tried to take a medium corner and the back end felt like jelly. It was at this point that I found that I could get a jack under my car cause it was too low.

Later at the tyre shop the guy looked at it and asked how fast I was going....I just smiled and he informed me that the crap tyres (his words) were only rated to 160km/h. I nearly died.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2283-speed/page/2/#findComment-42671
Share on other sites

TYRE SPEED SYMBOL TYRE SPEED RATING

S 180 km/h or 112 mph

T 190 km/h or 118 mph

U 200 km/h or 125 mph

H 210 km/h or 130 mph

V 240 km/h or 149 mph

W (ZR) 270 km/h or 168 mph

Y (ZR) 300 km/h or 186 mph

ZR Above 240 km/h or 149 mph

Note this is off Kumo, but is pretty much standard across the board

*whoops, same info as that link, sorry*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2283-speed/page/2/#findComment-42692
Share on other sites

I have done 210 (half my heart rate) in my falcon with the first part down a hill to get the speed up, They feel like boats at 100. Not much fun at 210. They also dont brake too good, a whole lotta brake fade from 160+.

Also done 200 in the same car up the Hume on a lazy sunday.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2283-speed/page/2/#findComment-42729
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...