Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i'm just in the middle of converting my stagea s2 to a gtr. I picked up a half-cut, rear k-frame and diff from an R32 GTR. At the moment, both motors are on the floor and we have started transferring and modifying. Just wondering if anyone has done this sorta swap before, and has any useful advice, or knows what problems they had and how they overcame them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228611-stagea-gtr-conversion/
Share on other sites

There is a bit of a DIY section here. It has been done before.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...al-t106465.html

I have only done a auto to manual conversion and 34 gtr front end, but not motor.I still have the rb25 in mine. I did consider the motor at one stage when a 260RS front cut and rear end was offered to me at a good price.

Yeh, we are a little concerned about the ECU, but we unplugged the stagea ECU and all the accessories and stuff seem to work still, so we were hoping to use the R32 ECU with a modified loom, and hope for the best. Will this work? The ATTESA system, how will this be affected?

Dude, I don't claim to be an expert, but its my understanding that the R32 ATESSA system and the stagea ATESSA system (based on the R33) are poles apart - you can't just pull a fuse to run in RWD like you can in a 32 (and there are people on here who have the destroyed clutch packs from the transfer case to prove it)

When you say "everything" works, I assume you are talking about the body? (doors, windows etc)

Wouldn't you be better off with an aftermarket system?

Yeh, we are a little concerned about the ECU, but we unplugged the stagea ECU and all the accessories and stuff seem to work still, so we were hoping to use the R32 ECU with a modified loom, and hope for the best. Will this work? The ATTESA system, how will this be affected?

Attesa has its own computer, seperate to the engine ecu. I think it will need some feeds form the ecu

Talk to Brad, user name unquie1, his old user name is cruiseliner, the guy who wrote the diy section

He has done it all before.

Mine was done in the same way, but with R33 parts, and a power fc. Al work was performed by Herman, at envy imports in Brookvale, NSW. Give him a bell, if needs be: not sure what the differences are using R32 parts, but I understand they are substantial...?

ive done it and its pretty simple ask away and ill answer best i can, i did it 3 years ago now so my memory isnt the best to list everything off the top of my head

i ran an aftermarket ecu in mine (autronic) so wiring wasnt as difficult as the stock gtr loom. Im about to put a pfc in the car so i have to wire in the gtr loom myself and i remember trying it a while ago and it was a real headf**k lol, if u happen to find anything out post it here and ill be happy to help u anyway i can on the mechanical side of things.

ive also done the r32 gtr diff/axles/unis into rs4 stagea too and its also a long winded process.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...amp;hl=gtr+diff

the attessa ecu in the rear of the car requires a tps signal from the engine ecu loom

Edited by unique1

Firstly, let me wish you a welcome to SkylinesAustralia, and to the Stagea section of these fine forums! :) I'm not sure how long you've had your Stagea, but I'm pretty certain that it will bring you plenty of enjoyment.

Hey, i'm just in the middle of converting my stagea s2 to a gtr. I picked up a half-cut, rear k-frame and diff from an R32 GTR. At the moment, both motors are on the floor and we have started transferring and modifying. Just wondering if anyone has done this sorta swap before, and has any useful advice, or knows what problems they had and how they overcame them?

There you go, Brad is probably THE man to talk to in regards to this as far as the owner-experience goes.

Whereabouts in Australia are you? If you let us know this, we can probably help point you in the right direction in regards to who else to speak to, where to get parts from, and I'm sure there'll be at least a few people who can probably help in the process of the conversion.

  • 3 months later...

sorry to thread steal, but a friend of mine wants to convert an auto stag to rb26 manual and he wants to know about the attesa.

if he gets a r32 front cut and uses the r32 gearbox, transfer case and attessa computer will the attessa work the same as the r32 gtr(as in fuse out= rwd powersliding fun)????? or will he need to change the pumps and some other stuff???? any help would be great

cheers

sorry to thread steal, but a friend of mine wants to convert an auto stag to rb26 manual and he wants to know about the attesa.

if he gets a r32 front cut and uses the r32 gearbox, transfer case and attessa computer will the attessa work the same as the r32 gtr(as in fuse out= rwd powersliding fun)????? or will he need to change the pumps and some other stuff???? any help would be great

cheers

it will still work like a r33/34 gtr if u run a 32 tf case and box, its the pumps etc that preload the clutch packs unlike the 32 one which doesnt, allowing fuse pulling as a safe method. I'd be guessing but i'd say the 33/34 setup would retain some sort of one way valve to stop the fluid returning back to the pump when its off and therefore allowing quicker transition into 4wd when its needed, unlike the 32 which has to start fluid from the pump again and thats a delay pushing it through the lines. Dont qoute me on that bit its just the understanding i have of it.

it will still work like a r33/34 gtr if u run a 32 tf case and box, its the pumps etc that preload the clutch packs unlike the 32 one which doesnt, allowing fuse pulling as a safe method. I'd be guessing but i'd say the 33/34 setup would retain some sort of one way valve to stop the fluid returning back to the pump when its off and therefore allowing quicker transition into 4wd when its needed, unlike the 32 which has to start fluid from the pump again and thats a delay pushing it through the lines. Dont qoute me on that bit its just the understanding i have of it.

so it is as i suspected, he'd have to replace the entire attessa system.

out of curiousity if the one way valve was removed wouldnt it that mean u could then remove the fuse and not damage the attessa?? or if u replaced the 33 type pump with a 32 type pump maybe??

this attessa stuff is way beyond my feeble brain

you might be able to use the r32 pump to run the stage but it really is a downgrade - the stagea/r33 style reacts significantly quicker and has a better balance.

If all you want is a rwd stagea just remove the front driveshaft - only takes about 15 min (or 2 min if you have a hoist lol)

I have a 32 gtr transfer case and it definately still reacts like a 33 system, so the smarts are in the pump and/or attessa computer neither of which will come in a half cut

cheers for that duncan

my mate was thinking more of a drag application. u know flick over to 2wd for the burnout then back to 4wd for the run. plus he's mad keen on skids. i think he should just get an r32 and be done with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...