Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have recently noticed that my car is seemingly taking a really long time to warm up... The guage itself is sitting low and i initially figured it was just the guage thats screwed, but the car is acting a bit sluggish for quite a while after i start driving, and i am worried that it is running rich while it thinks its cold...

It is an R33 gts-t series 1 (93), and the oil pressure is normal (starts of high when car is cold, and lowers and levels off after a couple of minutes).

Anyone had this kind of problem before? :D

Thanks guys

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230377-warming-up-issue/
Share on other sites

you serious?? i had a big arguement with john at UAS saying i need a hotter thermostat since i got the new radiator and he wouldnt let me buy one, he made me get a stock one cos he said my thermostat must be blocked open as well.

If this thermostat dont fix the problem then i am going to make him stand on his head like he promised and send me the hotter one :P

More than Likely its the thermostat stuck open...i have that problem but mines due to having a 50mm thick radiator and oil cooler in winter :P

Cheers

Andrew

I had the same problem, but mine was stuck halfway open.

Would take forever to warm up, and then when sitting and idling in summer, the car would hit 110 degrees.

Changed it and now its on 83 degrees and won't move from there.

Just buy a R34 One .. is more efficent than r33 ones.

Ive got a similar problem of the temps hitting 90 when boosting.. Should I ..

A) replace thermostat.

B) replace the radiator

c) burn the car.. grr

Edited by DECIM8

I changed my thermostat with the 76deg one John at UAS suggested, he said he would stand on his head if it didnt fix the problem.

Looks like I aint going to go take a pic of him standing on his head, fixed my issue too. the rubber was breaking off and letting water through which was not allowing it to warm up.

before would never go above 65deg now its on 81 again :D

Yeah R34 Thermostat is #21200v7205

I must mention when I said its better it will raise the temp thermo temp to 82 degrees.. not drop it..

Depending on your circumstances it may not be a good idea.

A upgraded turbo/cam or generally highly modified car will not be happy with it as it will take abit to cool her down... if you running stock ecu id suggest you stick to the R33 one (if thats your car) which runs at about 76.5? from memory better for intake charge for one.

If you upgrade to a r34 one it will fire settings off at the wrong time, supposedly this is bad in some way.. ecu acts as if its on crack.

Im buying a new radiator now, will install the old thermostat and let you know if I have any change.. I run into 90 degrees atm its frezing cold btw so not to good.

Edited by DECIM8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...