Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry if this has been posted before, but tonight i am buying my bleed valve (Festo Pneumatics valve ie Brilliant Boost "AutoSpeed") and i was wondering how to install it.

Basically do i unplug the boost solenoid, ie 2 hoses and plug, and then connect the freed up hoses to the bleed valve? Is it that easy?

Thanku, Very much appreciated. Also could people show me pics of their bleed valve setups. So it gives me a visual idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23076-how-to-install-a-bleed-valve/
Share on other sites

Easy!

1. Drop off at mechanic

2. Pick up from mechanic later!

Seriously though, be careful when you set the boost level, my turbodumb bleeder does nothing for about 4 full twists, then the next one goes from stock to about 14psi! so adjust slowly....

ajusted mine a little, gettingh slightly better boost but not 10psi yet ;)

a little hard floor it to check the boost when its raining so much hehe

other than that install was goodly!, paul was a big help (i owe you a beer). Now to take the car to a dyno and get all the fiddly bits tuned!

is it true, that you can take out the factory boost solenoid....

By going to the ecu pinout. Pin number 25 and just putting that to a ground, instead of running it to the ecu....

Thus causing you to get full boost, and then not getting that, extra boost at 4800 rpm....

cause at the moment, mine is going to 5 psi from 3000 to 4800. then till redline i can get 7 or 8 psi....

anyone to clarify...

  • 2 weeks later...
Originally posted by dabigbolf

is it true, that you can take out the factory boost solenoid....

By going to the ecu pinout.  Pin number 25 and just putting that to a ground, instead of running it to the ecu....

Thus causing you to get full boost, and then not getting that, extra boost at 4800 rpm....  

cause at the moment, mine is going to 5 psi from 3000 to 4800. then till redline i can get 7 or 8 psi....

anyone to clarify...

What you can do is unplug the boost solenoid and wire it to Accessory +12volt and ground. This makes it open permanantly while the ignition is on and you get the 7-8psi from 2500-3000 rpm.

I've been running this for a good two weeks or something now and its good. You could even run a switch to the dashboard and have it switchable between 5 and 8 psi for daily driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...