Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly, i love my car (s1 stag), dont get me wrong, but there are a few issues. Mainly due to my excitedness/haste (read: foolishness) in buying i suspect.

1. I dont have an original stag key. I have a craaapy mr minit looking cut key, and crappy little press in immobiliser. I'm assuming car wasn't shipped with the key or something?

2. My power steering pump is making an inordinate amount of noise. (noticable mainly due to 3.)

3. Left side speakers blown.

4. Rust on INSIDE of door mirrors

5. Drivers side door mirror requires manual assistance in folding in/out

6. Twice now, car has stalled driving in shopping centre car parks (will check out fuel filter this weekend)

7. After 30mins - 1hrs driving it bogs down when accellerating from idle (auto trans fuild hot maybe?)

8. Current auto issues are making me save for a manual s2 already.

9. There are water marks on the top of the visors, and the rear portion of the roof has begun to hang down at the join. i'm suspecting that there may have been a leak through the roof although there is no visible rust or anything there.

10. It's already been back to have a belt changed because it almost deafened me with its squeal while my head was under the bonnet

so, i'll call it personality, it sounds more positive that way :blink:

i have my work cut out for me i think :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230800-stagea-issues/
Share on other sites

Just remember you bought a 12 year old car and although most cars come from japan with low km's 12 years of sitting in the snow and rain will do damage,it could be worse you could of bought a 12 yr old commodore and be doing alot more repairing. Stick with it and be rewarded with a fun car im loving my stag and although it needs some attention i wouldnt trade it for the world atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230800-stagea-issues/#findComment-4054416
Share on other sites

Firstly, i love my car (s1 stag), dont get me wrong, but there are a few issues. Mainly due to my excitedness/haste (read: foolishness) in buying i suspect.

1. I dont have an original stag key. I have a craaapy mr minit looking cut key, and crappy little press in immobiliser. I'm assuming car wasn't shipped with the key or something?

My car came with a key with built in locking/unlocking (maybe an optional extra?) if you can find someone to check via FAST (i Can't) you may be able to find out. I tried to buy another key but was quoted $300 from Nissan

2. My power steering pump is making an inordinate amount of noise. (noticable mainly due to 3.)

3. Left side speakers blown.

4. Rust on INSIDE of door mirrors

Rusty doors under the mirrors is a Stagea thing (but the ONLY rust on my car). The sooner fixed the better. Door panels off, mirror off (maybe time to o/haul or replace the motor) weld in steel and replace or dry foam and put waxy stuff (panel beater told me) to prevent further rusting.

5. Drivers side door mirror requires manual assistance in folding in/out

see above

6. Twice now, car has stalled driving in shopping centre car parks (will check out fuel filter this weekend)

7. After 30mins - 1hrs driving it bogs down when accellerating from idle (auto trans fuild hot maybe?)

Unlikely but see DIY section for installation of cooler - check fliud to see if its dirty and needs replacing

8. Current auto issues are making me save for a manual s2 already.

9. There are water marks on the top of the visors, and the rear portion of the roof has begun to hang down at the join. i'm suspecting that there may have been a leak through the roof although there is no visible rust or anything there.

10. It's already been back to have a belt changed because it almost deafened me with its squeal while my head was under the bonnet

so, i'll call it personality, it sounds more positive that way ;)

i have my work cut out for me i think :teehee:

Not just a car but a past-time!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230800-stagea-issues/#findComment-4056881
Share on other sites

hahaha I get really embarrassed by it.. damn car making me blush hahahaha

heh, mine squeals no longer, the offending belt got replaced and my ears have finally recovered ;)

apparently you can get a de-glazing compound to sort out the squeak on the belts if they're not too far gone, where you'd get it from i have no idea though :)

heading back to the dealership with a list of things to have sorted out tomorrow, i imagine not many will be fixed, but even if its only 1 or two then thats 1 or two i dont need to fix :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230800-stagea-issues/#findComment-4059378
Share on other sites

6. Twice now, car has stalled driving in shopping centre car parks (will check out fuel filter this weekend)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...vs-t230750.html

I found this issue to be my AFM but it may be different to yours

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230800-stagea-issues/#findComment-4059910
Share on other sites

Yeah bro,

Happened to me on my first stag with the standard factory bov and everyone has a theory on how to fix this issue.

It is common on autos but can occur with manuals aswell. This caused lots of probs and I couldnt pin point it and also changed the afm.

I had the same prob when I went open atmospheric with an Apexi dual chamber and had to plumb back the right air flow on deceleration.

A aftermarket computer engine management system or SAFC II can fix this or you need a full plumb back system, I had the same prob on my GTiR with a SARD R2D2 and chose a HKS Eids.

Either of these will fix the idle/stalling prob, just depends on how much you want to spend and how far you want to go with later tuning and cost.

The SAFC II was the way to go when on the cheap, just up to +1 deceleration air.

Also leetom is right about the squealing alternator belt, just adjust, a new one will do it aswell.

Stageas are hard to find without rust and doors are usually common, its more along the lines of least amount of rust, mine is pretty clean though.

All stags need a full major service and overhaul when bought considering wear and tear on the usual items, it cant be avoided on a 10 year+ car.

As I said my second stagea..lessons learnt and still could maintain full open atmospheric venting..PSSSHHHTT!!

Edited by nismokid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230800-stagea-issues/#findComment-4060482
Share on other sites

  • 8 years later...
On 05/08/2008 at 11:47 PM, 96RS4V said:

heh, mine squeals no longer, the offending belt got replaced and my ears have finally recovered ;)

apparently you can get a de-glazing compound to sort out the squeak on the belts if they're not too far gone, where you'd get it from i have no idea though :)

heading back to the dealership with a list of things to have sorted out tomorrow, i imagine not many will be fixed, but even if its only 1 or two then thats 1 or two i dont need to fix :(

Super Cheap sells a spray to fix squealing belts. Saw it in the shop today when I was looking for dielectric grease for my coils. 

 

Shit this is an old post. Ha ha ha so tired.....

Edited by TMLP
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230800-stagea-issues/#findComment-7787108
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, TMLP said:

Super Cheap sells a spray to fix squealing belts. Saw it in the shop today when I was looking for dielectric grease for my coils. 

 

Shit this is an old post. Ha ha ha so tired.....

Blast from the past ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230800-stagea-issues/#findComment-7787271
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...