Jump to content
SAU Community

Popping Sound And Car Shaking

Wacky Dee

By Wacky Dee,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

Just got the car back from a big-ish service incl all oils changed, fuel filters, gapped spark plugs etc and noticed that if I rev the engine and hold rpm somewhere between 1500 and 2500 rpm (I didn't try higher because I didn't want to attract attention to myself..) while the car is sitting idle in neutral, there's a muffled popping sound followed by a small shake (drive seat shakes noticably) every few seconds ..sometimes more than one in a row.

Like popcorn starting to pop ..just more muffled sound, and each pop shakes the car a bit. Is this just the exhaust note or should I be worried ? Detonation? Car's ecu was tuned before the service and it was NOT pinging/detonating...

The car's an R34 GTT with a turbo-back exhaust with a 3" catback (HKS SilentPower)

I never noticed this before but then again I never held the engine at 1500rpm for a few seconds before either..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231130-popping-sound-and-car-shaking/
Share on other sites
Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hm are you sure this is missfire? I searched for "Popping" last night and read a lot of older discussions and a lot of people seem to be under the impression that these popping sounds are normal on skylines and a few said it's probably due to running rich in that rev range .. no mentions of missfire anywhere.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I have no idea which plugs they put in ... I'm taking the car back to unigroup to have a listen to this. Could it be due to old fuel? car's been at the shop for was 2 weeks and only 1/4 of tank of fuel sitting in it

Edited by Delta Force
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

mine runs rough in the same situation. though in mine i put it down to section of the map thats never been tuned.

It's just a rich miss and nothing to be overly concerned about. It's something tune related and i wouldn't expect it's a result of a service. I'm pretty sure unigroup will tell you the same thing but it doesn't hurt to have it looked at if you are concerned.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Took it back to unigroup and as soon as Yavuz heard the popping at idle and low revs he said "yep it's misfiring" .. and that it's due to the small gap (0.75mm) so they regapped the spark plugs to 1mm and no more misfire/popping sounds ;-) Best of all ..they did it all for free! That's good service. Cheers.

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
Posted
Took it back to unigroup and as soon as Yavuz heard the popping at idle and low revs he said "yep it's misfiring" .. and that it's due to the small gap (0.75mm) so they regapped the spark plugs to 1mm and no more misfire/popping sounds ;-) Best of all ..they did it all for free! That's good service. Cheers.

Hey mate was yours the black r34 there? I was there about a week ago also.. had a safc tune. Mine is doing the same thing and yavuz said its normal with running small gapped plugs.. Funny i also hear it pop every now and then only on idle

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

just one thing ... Yav also mentioned that the car may misfire at higher rpms with bigger gap (and non stock boost). But for me that's not really an issue as a very rarely go above 4000rpm anyway (daily driver)

  • 3 years later...
369 Enthusiast

369

Posted
Posted

sorry to bring up an old thread but i think my input is relevant and not worth starting a new thread.......

i have been experiencing the same muffled popping/rumble sound then shaking when car is idling after cold start. i noticed the rumble and shaking start to settle down after the engine oil had warmed up to about 90 degrees.

couldn't figure out what was wrong, then 2 weeks later the check engine light came. it turned out an exhaust leak at the rear muffler was causing the rumble and shake while idling.

the leak was at the weld joints along the exhaust pipe that had started to rust. this was probably making the car run a little too rich as well, but i could be wrong.

cheers!!!

PaulosECR33 Community Regular

PaulosECR33

Posted
Posted

mine does it too at idle, is normal. atm mine has a dump pipe like 6 inches long and is running Super rich so it sounds worse, gaps are .8. is perfect when you apply any throttle though all the way to 7000rpm

PaulosECR33 Community Regular

PaulosECR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

mine does it too at idle, is not dangerous. atm mine has a dump pipe like 6 inches long and is running Super rich so it sounds worse, gaps are .8. is perfect when you apply any throttle though all the way to 7000rpm

ah crap that effort to edit a post was ABSOLUTE FAIL

Edited by PaulosECR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...