Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi dudes

1) Does anyone know whether the SK Bilstein shocks are the same ones that are delivered from Bilstein Germany? I heard from people that they used to get revalved to SK specs when they arrived from Germany a couple of years back, but now Germany just sends all Bilsteins with SK specs by default to all Aussie suppliers?

2) What would be the difference in ride comfort (only concerned with comfort here) between the 2 options below:

- Bilstein shocks with stock springs lowered on the lowest circlip (so I think that makes 24mm lower)

- Bilstein shocks with Whiteline/King springs on the normal circlip

It seems like stock springs on lowest circlips may run out of travel perhaps and bottom out on big hits hence possibly resulting in a harsher bumpier ride especially since the springs and shocks arent matched. Is this true? or will the Bilsteins effectively control the stock springs?

Thanks for your help

Hi dudes

1) Does anyone know whether the SK Bilstein shocks are the same ones that are delivered from Bilstein Germany? I heard from people that they used to get revalved to SK specs when they arrived from Germany a couple of years back, but now Germany just sends all Bilsteins with SK specs by default to all Aussie suppliers?

2) What would be the difference in ride comfort (only concerned with comfort here) between the 2 options below:

- Bilstein shocks with stock springs lowered on the lowest circlip (so I think that makes 24mm lower)

- Bilstein shocks with Whiteline/King springs on the normal circlip

It seems like stock springs on lowest circlips may run out of travel perhaps and bottom out on big hits hence possibly resulting in a harsher bumpier ride especially since the springs and shocks arent matched. Is this true? or will the Bilsteins effectively control the stock springs?

Thanks for your help

I ran the Stagea with the standard springs and the Bilsteins for several months and it was a nice handling/ride comfort balance. I ran it 3 circlip grooves (24 mm) lower than standard and it had no problems with travel after I trimmed the bump stops. That's 15 mm or so higher than with the Whiteline springs and the circlips in their "standard" position. To my feel it was more comfortable than it was with the standard 100,000 ks old shocks. On them it was floaty and bounced a couple of times after hitting a bump, very uncomfortable. Much more controlled and hence comfortable with the Bilsteins.

As I have mentioned previously the problem is not simply one of spring rates, the Whiteline spring rates are only a modest 20% to 25% higher than the standard rates. The issue is the complete suspension system design, R32/33/34 Skylines are designed to be "sporty", not harsh, but not limousine either.

Cheers

Gary

Thanks Gary

Does that mean that the whiteline springs lower the car 24+15mm = 39mm in total? but for a stagea which is different for a GTT? What would be the height difference between 24mm using the lowest circlip, or whiteline on the standard circlip on a R34 GTT?

To me, comfortable is the Toyota Camry type ride haha not necessarily one that bounces a couple of times after hitting a bump. It is more something that absorbs the bumps nicely, instead of hitting a small bump and having the car pushed around.

Unfortuantely comfort has a very personal interpretation and it seems that for you, comfortable = firm and not boaty. So comfortable to you = uncomfortable to others haha and vice versa of course. I think that just because something is floaty, doesnt mean its uncomfortable. It probably better takes the bad roads that a car that is not floaty, ie. has less shaking and rattling

** What I would ideally like to achieve is a lowered setup, with the same level of comfort as say 20,000km old stock shocks on stock springs. I dont mean for it to get any less "sportier" than the stock feel as I understand that the car is still a sports car, I dont intend to change this. However at the same time, do not want to go much "sportier" either.

Just trying to suss out what the options are and

whether the Bilsteins be better matched to the stock feel lowered with stock springs / or Whiteline springs? (both achieve a decent height change, but would of course drive very differently?)

I have Bilsteins in my car with the std springs it is both good on the road and on the track

Poeple have driven my car and commented on how good it feels the shocks are alot better

than std nissan stuff but not over the top.Mate you would have no problem at all if you fitted

std springs with bilsteins shocks I think even later if you wanted to upgrade to whiteline

springs you would still have a comfy ride sporty but still smooth ride.I had jap coil overs in

my car and couldn't wait to get them out to hard and the car was dangerous to drive.Since I

fitted the bilsteins shocks I haven' looked back.I haven't lowered my car much from std

height only about 20mm so I can't give you any feed back on lowering any more than that.

Out of every mod I have done to my car, suspension is by far the most important and most

under looked by a lot of people and it doesn't has to be stiff to perform well like a lot of

people may think!

Thanks Gary

Does that mean that the whiteline springs lower the car 24+15mm = 39mm in total? but for a stagea which is different for a GTT? What would be the height difference between 24mm using the lowest circlip, or whiteline on the standard circlip on a R34 GTT?

To me, comfortable is the Toyota Camry type ride haha not necessarily one that bounces a couple of times after hitting a bump. It is more something that absorbs the bumps nicely, instead of hitting a small bump and having the car pushed around.

Unfortuantely comfort has a very personal interpretation and it seems that for you, comfortable = firm and not boaty. So comfortable to you = uncomfortable to others haha and vice versa of course. I think that just because something is floaty, doesnt mean its uncomfortable. It probably better takes the bad roads that a car that is not floaty, ie. has less shaking and rattling

** What I would ideally like to achieve is a lowered setup, with the same level of comfort as say 20,000km old stock shocks on stock springs. I dont mean for it to get any less "sportier" than the stock feel as I understand that the car is still a sports car, I dont intend to change this. However at the same time, do not want to go much "sportier" either.

Just trying to suss out what the options are and

whether the Bilsteins be better matched to the stock feel lowered with stock springs / or Whiteline springs? (both achieve a decent height change, but would of course drive very differently?)

I hate talking about lowering amounts, because lowering from what? Not all R34GTT were the same height when new, not all have settled the same amount, some have even sagged, many are up to 10 mm lower on the RHS than the LHS. So I prefer to talk about absolutes, centre of wheel to guard, which you will find most suspension engineers do also.

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear (that's no limited editions, anniversary specials or others that can have different heights up to 10 mm)

Around 50,000 k's they are often at 375 mm front and 365 mm rear, with the RHS rear 360 and the LHS rear 370.

If the shocks haven't been changed and they have done 100,000 ks or so, they are usually 370 mm front and 360 mm rear, with the RHS rear 355 and the LHS rear 360.

The Whiteline springs will result in ~350/340, that's with the spring seats in their standard position. That's 30 mm lower from standard new, but might only be 20 mm lower in a car with stuffed shocks and sagged springs.

The Group Buy Bilsteins for the R34GTT have 7 circlip grooves, all 8 mm appart, 2 standard plus 3 lower + 2 higher.

So with the standard springs you can use the 1st, 2nd or 3rd of the lower grooves to get 8mm, 16mm or 24 mm lower than what the car is with the standard shocks in place.

But there is a problem, with the standard springs you can really only go down to 356 mm (380-24)/346 mm(370 -24) because the standard spring rate isn't able to absorb bumps with any less travel than that height allows.

So if you have a sagged car that is already 370/360 you can only lower it 16 mm (2 grooves) to 354/344.

The Whiteline springs have a slightly higher spring rate, that's why they can handle 350/340 (using the standard height groove).

So you could lower it using the 3 lower grooves available (ie; 326/316), but it is not something I would recommend, ever.

Simple isn't it?

Cheers

Gary

Yeap that all makes sense.

When lowering the car on stock springs and circlips and possibly achieving a height of 346/336mm (assuming the springs sit at 370/350mm already)...does that mean that the car will be hitting the bump stops very often even if trimmed due to the low spring rates?

And back to the original question...

Are the Bilsteins be better matched to the stock OEM feel lowered with

- stock springs

- or Whiteline springs? (both achieve a decent height change, but would of course drive very differently?)

  • 3 months later...
haha, u and ur quest for a comfortable sporty ride! :blink:

What would you recommend for best suspension settings for R34 GTT?

For fast cornering street drive.

I am thinking Bilstein + Kings/whiteline springs + whitelin sway bars rear.

Is it one model for Bilstein to fit R34 GTT?

Regards,

Alder

What would you recommend for best suspension settings for R34 GTT?

For fast cornering street drive.

I am thinking Bilstein + Kings/whiteline springs + whitelin sway bars rear.

Is it one model for Bilstein to fit R34 GTT?

Regards,

Alder

Mate with that set up and add adjustable sway bars you would be very

happy

What would you recommend for best suspension settings for R34 GTT?

For fast cornering street drive.

I am thinking Bilstein + Kings/whiteline springs + whitelin sway bars rear.

Is it one model for Bilstein to fit R34 GTT?

Regards,

Alder

hey dude,

yeah, ive got whiteleine springs on bilstein springs as well as whiteline sway bars....

handles real awesome compared to stock set up...sucks up corners and round abouts real easy

yeah i think there is only one model shocks for r34 gtt, have a look on their website...

I wouldn't order from the Bilstein GB .. people have been waiting for 4-5 months and more. I waited more than 3 months and got lucky by pestering them regularly..

Just goto Heasman's if you want Bilsteins, they're the australian importers anyway.

hey dude,

yeah, ive got whiteleine springs on bilstein springs as well as whiteline sway bars....

handles real awesome compared to stock set up...sucks up corners and round abouts real easy

yeah i think there is only one model shocks for r34 gtt, have a look on their website...

How's Nismo compare with Whileline sway bars? Would Nismo perform a lot better? OR not worth to spend more for little better?

I wouldn't order from the Bilstein GB .. people have been waiting for 4-5 months and more. I waited more than 3 months and got lucky by pestering them regularly..

Just goto Heasman's if you want Bilsteins, they're the australian importers anyway.

Have you got Heasman's contact or web address?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...