Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Opinions on which tyre you think would be the best bang for buck for an R32 GTR as far as street/track performance. Looking for the best option to put on my GTR for all weather conditions, 95% street use, 5% track use.

If money is no object, Michelin Pilot Sport PS2. They're probably the best regular roadgoing tyre on the market.

If you can't stretch that far, but you've still got plenty of coin its hard to beat the Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R.

On a budget, Falken Azenis RT615.

All these tyres have great dry and wet weather grip, and don't require that much heat to start working. None of these tyres will last particularly long (although the Pilot Sports will last the longest), so if you're daily driving it then there's other considerations.

Bridgestone Adrenalin RE-001s are a good bang for buck budget street tyre, but in terms of grip and heat capacity they aren't in the same league as the above. Same with the Toyo T1Rs, which are also highly recommended. However, they will last a lot longer than any tyres mentioned earlier.

Edited by scathing

As usual, great information from a very knowledgeable crew. :starwars: I think it will boil down to the RE001s and the Falken Azenis. Can any of you young Jedi's recommend a good dealership in Melbourne for the afore-mentioned tyres (when i say "good" i mean someone who is reasonably priced)? Or can you import these?? Cheers

Buy a track set.. proper semi slicks..

and a cheaper street set..

Semi's can be scary as anything int he wet.. and very rrely will you get up to proper oprating temps on the street.. not worth it

its the cheapest way to go

Edited by GTS4WD
If money is no object, Michelin Pilot Sport PS2. They're probably the best regular roadgoing tyre on the market.

If you can't stretch that far, but you've still got plenty of coin its hard to beat the Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R.

On a budget, Falken Azenis RT615.

All these tyres have great dry and wet weather grip, and don't require that much heat to start working. None of these tyres will last particularly long (although the Pilot Sports will last the longest), so if you're daily driving it then there's other considerations.

Bridgestone Adrenalin RE-001s are a good bang for buck budget street tyre, but in terms of grip and heat capacity they aren't in the same league as the above. Same with the Toyo T1Rs, which are also highly recommended. However, they will last a lot longer than any tyres mentioned earlier.

RE-01R's are no longer being made and cant get them into Australia too easily, otherwise i would have recommended them.

tbh when i first read this thread for some reason i was thinking he was actually after a high performance street tyre, not a street/track tyre so ill take that back, as u mentioned they arnt really suited to heaps of track work.

in an identical thread on ns about a street/track tyre i recommended these 3:

Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R

Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD07

Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1

i still stick to it, but unfortunately they are not easy to get into the country, although recently this bloke was able to get his hands on the direzzas for a bloody good price through tire rack http://hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?s=&a...t&p=4403390

as i mentioned, the RE-01R's arnt being made any more, and the bridgestone dealers dont seem to be able to bring them in. ur only real option with those 2 are getting an import broker to send some over from Japan.

RE-01R's are no longer being made and cant get them into Australia too easily, otherwise i would have recommended them.

tbh when i first read this thread for some reason i was thinking he was actually after a high performance street tyre, not a street/track tyre so ill take that back, as u mentioned they arnt really suited to heaps of track work.

in an identical thread on ns about a street/track tyre i recommended these 3:

Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R

Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD07

Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1

i still stick to it, but unfortunately they are not easy to get into the country, although recently this bloke was able to get his hands on the direzzas for a bloody good price through tire rack http://hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?s=&a...t&p=4403390

as i mentioned, the RE-01R's arnt being made any more, and the bridgestone dealers dont seem to be able to bring them in. ur only real option with those 2 are getting an import broker to send some over from Japan.

Potenza RE01-R are still being made (http://www.bridgestone.co.jp/tire/potenza_re01r/) but they were never available locally unless you went to the specialized Bridgestone Motorsport dealers.

I was quote $350 for 235/45/R17 for RE01-R, from the Bridgestone Motorsport dealer in perth. i ended up going with the RE0001 as they were alot cheaper (only $250each for same size); i found them great and extremely grippy, even after 5lap session they were still holding there grip (350hp r33)

Also be aware that if you get atop of the line tyre they will a soft compound, so if you do alot of street driving you will wear the tyre quicker than a normal tyre

Edited by [Michael]

Go to tirerack.com in the US. They do RE01Rs and they are about $250 per corner plus freight @ $200 for the lot. They are most helpful and will happily ship. Just seen Ronin 09's post. Best confess he put me onto them. What he says.

Edited by LotusGTR

Potenza RE01-R are still being made (http://www.bridgestone.co.jp/tire/potenza_re01r/) but they were never available locally unless you went to the specialized Bridgestone Motorsport dealers.

I was quote $350 for 235/45/R17 for RE01-R, from the Bridgestone Motorsport dealer in perth. i ended up going with the RE0001 as they were alot cheaper (only $250each for same size); i found them great and extremely grippy, even after 5lap session they were still holding there grip (350hp r33)

Also be aware that if you get atop of the line tyre they will a soft compound, so if you do alot of street driving you will wear the tyre quicker than a normal tyre

ahk, it was bridgestone that told me they were no longer made, just goes to show u how little they know about their own performance products.

Go to tirerack.com in the US. They do RE01Rs and they are about $250 per corner plus freight @ $200 for the lot. They are most helpful and will happily ship. Just seen Ronin 09's post. Best confess he put me onto them. What he says.

yeh apparently the bloke i mentioned earlier got the direzza's for around $250 delivered, from what ive read they are an extremely similar tyre, in fact some places rate them higher. direzza's would be my choice simply based on price.

ahk, it was bridgestone that told me they were no longer made, just goes to show u how little they know about their own performance products.

Last time I checked they are on the Bridgestone Aust website. I rang one dealer and they told me they were unavailable despite being on the web and the next I rang said yes they can get them but at about $495 per corner for 255/40/17.......Go figure.

I know I say this all the time but :P... For a street/track tyre for the right price you cant go past the Federal 595RS-R - Street legal semi slick with 140 treadwear rating (which is lower than Falken and Bridgestone alternatives)... I use them as a daily driven tyre and can easily get up to 20 - 25,000kms from a set looking after them.

post-17958-1218088197_thumb.jpg

Last time I checked they are on the Bridgestone Aust website. I rang one dealer and they told me they were unavailable despite being on the web and the next I rang said yes they can get them but at about $495 per corner for 255/40/17.......Go figure.

haha basically unless ur looking to put turanzas on ur commie, they are useless.

I'll give you one from left field to get you thinking.

For so little track work i wouldn't even factor that into the equation.

You are predominantly street driving so you want a tyre that performs in the wet, is quiet, and will give you a reasonable life.

forget about the softer street tyres like adrenaline's, re001's, 595rs's if your car is your daily commuter. You'll spend 1200+ for a set of tyres and they'll be shagged after a year and you'll be buying new ones. Shit, if you spent 1200 on a set of tyres that lasted 3 years you could easily afford a dedicated set of track tyres and wheels with the savings.....

I wont recommend a specific tyre as i run 595rs front and rt215 rear which i don't think are appropriate for either a commuter or a track car, they are too compromised for either. too soft for longevity and not soft enough for track. ok for an occasional weekender though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...