Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan Gt Gt-r Is Approved Under Sevs, 2 Seater Only.


Recommended Posts

excellent. well done to GT Compliance p/l whoever they really are :)

seems that nissans vigorous lobbying and their their lowlife, underhand attacks on people bringing in race/rally cars have not paid off. all they ever had to do was support the enthusiasts who wanted their car.

I'm sure every plate will be sold for these cars :D

^^They can start now, but only as new cars (less than 300km on the odometer) and only until Nissan release them locally. In other words, there are gonna be a lot of people spending a lot of money in the next few months...

having had a good look back there...you certainly wouldn't let anyone you like into the back....

BTW for those with short memories there were parallel imports of the r32 before nissan released that as well. sold by scuderia veloce, the one I drove was #001 just a plain old 89 gtr. only a handful made it in before nissan shut them down.

nissan clearly haven't learned their lessons, and with any luck they will stumble over the 18 month rule which prevents second hand imports too. I can't get my head around why cars have such anti-competitive restrictions on sales.

I spoke to Nissan on the weekend. Their deliveries start in Feb (5 cars per dealer per month).

So there is a small window of opportunities for imports.

But they still don't make sense given the price. Nissan quoted me $145K drive away compared to $200K+ for an imported one.

I got this email from Prestige Motorsport...........

On 15th August 2008 two workshops were approved to comply the R35 GTR. A third workshop is expected to be approved within a matter of weeks. There are restrictions however. Each workshop can only comply 25 vehicles per year and will only accept new vehicles bought direct from Nissan Japan (nothing from auction even though it is still as new with only delivery kms). Nissan Australia are also pursuing full volume compliance at the moment (to sell the R35 GTR new in Aust.) and could get through at any time. Once this happens the workshops will then be limited to new vehicles manufactured before the date Nissan Aust. was approved. Clearly, new GTR's meeting the build date criteria will only be available for a relatively short time and over time will cease to be available at all. So this should be seen as a very limited window of opportunity. If you are serious about importing one of these supercars and have the funds available then we strongly encourage you to act immediately to avoid missing out. We have had a lot of enquiries about this model already but few are serious -- please DO NOT contact us unless you are serious about buying. The exchange rate at the time of purchase will impact quite a lot on the final price. But as a guide the price for a new R35 GTR including LCT is expected to start from about $135,000 complied, plus tyres and ORC's for a base model. Special up-spec models would cost approx. $10,000 to $20,000 more. Please note that we have access to cancelled orders for new cars through contacts at Nissan Japan so if you are flexible on specs we can get hold of new R35 GTR's right away, avoiding the approx. 5 month waiting period. _______________________________________________________________________________ To remove an e-mail address from this mailing list please follow the simple instructions provided on any mailing list update. To add an e-mail address please use the link on our website. We only wish to send this information to those willing to receive it. We do not condone spamming or the sending of unwanted e-mail. Our apologies in advance if this e-mail is unwanted. Regards

Geoff Risbey

Manager

Prestige Motorsport

0418 944 253www.prestigemotorsport.com.auAt your service Mon to Fri from 9am to 5pm WST, and Sat from 9am to 3pm WSTDL14688

I got this email

But as a guide the price for a new R35 GTR including LCT is expected to start from about $135,000 complied, plus tyres and ORC's for a base model.

People would have to be smoking something quite strong or having a good dream if they think you will get a R35 for this price landed, complied and including LCT (alone it is $30,000). Prices for various imports get quoted but to date none of the high end cars have come in any were close to it, plates still have to be available to be offered for sale.

Link to Japan Vehicles who list 3 FOB prices for the R35 GTR, if people had any idea what it cost's to register and then de-register a car for export they would know the list price Nissan Japan quote means nothing.

Also why they quote new tyres as an expense shows just how little they know as you don't have to change them under the New Vehicle scheme and I don't think Nissan would fit tyres they could not use world wide.

agreed. no way are you getting an R35 on road for $35 unless compliance is free!

people always quote say $80K for a car in japan but they are just quoting rubbish figures from brochures. that is not FOB, nissan wont sell you a car without rego, or 5% sales tax, plus an agent is not going to do all that work for free. and he/she needs to have a parking space to register it to etc which is all checked carefully. then you need to factor 10% GST, 10% duty and LCT on the portion over $57K (and don't even think of trying to write down the value, customs are not stupid and will be on your ass!). then you need to comply it and any compliance shop charging less than about $18K for compliance is really doing themselves a dis-service as there has been a lot of dough invested in getting compliance by those shops that have done it and they have little opportunity to get that money back.

this is coming from someone who has imported 2 already so I know every cost down to the last yen.

I don't know for certain what a road registered R35 will cost in total but I would guess it's closer to $160K than $135K. as for nissan's $145K I'll be surprised if they really are $145K drive away. but if they are then I reckon that's pretty fairly priced and will hopefully sell quite well.

People complained about the limited warranty a dealer offers with the R35 so if you can afford one you would have a few screws loose private importing just to save a few grand unless you intend to race it, their is no way in hell the savings of private import would be worth while when something goes wrong "not if something goes wrong".

But don't listen to people like Beer Baron who has imported more R35 GTR's then years some of you have been out of school or off your P plates, listen to someone who has no idea what they are talking about and just seems to make comments about anything to get their post counter higher.

Also Customs are now making people prove the car is new at time of export.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...