Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice car there Mat! Is Kristian organising compliance for you interstate, or are you doing it here? If you need to borrow some stock rims to get it through let me know and you can borrow my stockies.

Nice car there Mat! Is Kristian organising compliance for you interstate, or are you doing it here? If you need to borrow some stock rims to get it through let me know and you can borrow my stockies.

Cheers Andrew! Thanks for the offer :) I'm pretty sure he's organizing it interstate I think but if he does it here I'll let you know!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

All 4 wheels are on now and I am fairly happy with the result, Rears do tuck in a fair bit but after all they where brought for my old maxima. Might look at lowering it onto 350z springs next and then might consider buying a new set of wheels to fit the car a bit better.P4110925_zps692ce8f3.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

^^ I look forward to selling you a Urethane Nismo front bumper bar very soon when you break your lip and rip your stock bar off :) .... the low life sucks without Urethane - I bend and scrape mine all the time and it just pops back into shape :) :) :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, one of my mates wants to get a V35 as well seeing mine. We went to Nagoya motors near Sutherland, NSW and saw quite a few V35s in different colors. I was surprised at the price as it seemed too low for the low kilometers. Most of them had around 40k-50k kms, where as I got my V35 a few weeks back from a different dealer but reliable and who i personally know, a few grand pricier with much higher kms (80k) with genuine japanese documents. (although mine did come with HID xenon lights and Fujitsubu performance exhaust). My understanding was that cars with such low kms would be quite expensive and not definitely $15k-$16k. Prestige imports who only import cars on order basis (they only collect the agency fee, everything else is paid by buyer) told me that genuine cars with such low KMs would cost higher in the auction and as a result the final price paid in Australia would be much higher. I wonder if those cars at Nagoya motors are clocked back.

Edited by saif22

Hi guys, one of my mates wants to get a V35 as well seeing mine. We went to Nagoya motors near Sutherland, NSW and saw quite a few V35s in different colors. I was surprised at the price as it seemed too low for the low kilometers. Most of them had around 40k-50k kms, where as I got my V35 a few weeks back from a different dealer but reliable and who i personally know, a few grand pricier with much higher kms (80k) with genuine japanese documents. (although mine did come with HID xenon lights and Fujitsubu performance exhaust). My understanding was that cars with such low kms would be quite expensive and not definitely $15k-$16k. Prestige imports who only import cars on order basis (they only collect the agency fee, everything else is paid by buyer) told me that genuine cars with such low KMs would cost higher in the auction and as a result the final price paid in Australia would be much higher. I wonder if those cars at Nagoya motors are clocked back.

I had a similar experience when shopping around for my V36. Some incredibly low kms (27,000 in one instance), but no paperwork to prove the veracity of the claims. I became wary, especially after reading about how common this 'winding back' of kms is. Finally found Road & Track in Silverwater, Sydney. The manager there, Gavin, only sells cars with all of the relevant Japanese paperwork. Provides much more comfort when laying out a significant sum of money!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
    • Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself.   First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?
    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...