Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

craz0

so now with the pfc in everything is fine and all u had to do was plug in with no extra wiring or mods to to the unit or wiring to make it work with the auto?

the only issue u have is the power light flashing?

steve-sst

how much is a wolf plugin worth for a r33 auto gts-t?

and who can tune it in sydney?

and as craz0 said when you installed the wolf into the auto r33 did u notice the power button flashing/going through the diagnostics?

Originally posted by walkoau

craz0

so now with the pfc in everything is fine and all u had to do was plug in with no extra wiring or mods to the unit or wiring to make it work with the auto?

the only issue u have is the power light flashing?

The PFC worked and you can drive the Car, but the Auto speed button would flash 16 times (all fast) and when you run the Auto through diagnostic mode the third flash would be long (Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected) so the Auto needs the TPS signal to work properly, when I took it for a drive it would hold out through the gears (e.g. would change from first to second at about 3500rpm with your foot just on the accelerator where it would normally change under 2000rpm) after braking/cornering and then accelerating it seem to be in the right gear (like it wasn't fishing for a gear), It kicked back gears fine as well. When it did change from first to second it was harsh (like when you put your foot down from first to second and it gives you that kick but just not as fast and no wheel spin :P)

I can't seem to find a pin layout for the actual Auto ECU either.

Does anyone know what info Pins 5, 14 and 15 push from the main ECU? all three of these go straight to the Auto ECU.

I'm figuring they push the TPS and maybe Tacho signals so the Auto ECU can figure out when to change.

I've attached a pic of the three wires going into the Auto ECU.

Just seeing if anyone knows for sure.

  • 1 month later...

Ok i got the wolf plug-in and I pluged it in and the car didn't want to start and when it did it coughed and farted and blow dark black smoke and the lights on the ECU looked like Christmas lights going of,so I turned it of :confused: don't know what happened here.

The user manual I got with the ECU is for the normal Ver 4 but not the Plug-in version, I've contacted Wolf about this and I'm waiting on a reply.

Steve-SST do you know if there is different versions of the plug-ins at all? mine has (rev 5) on it, also the PC software I got for it is Ver 4.49 what version are you currently using?

So the MAP sensor has to be conected for it to work properly? so where is the best place to hook in the map sensor line? the fuel presure reg line?

Can you still leave the AFM hooked up or do you have to remove that as well?

My car is a 93 R33 RB25DET Auto everything is stock other then a Jamex filter in the original box and I run it on Optimax.

Steve Taylor sent me the first draft of the Installation Manual for the R32/R33 GTST Plug-In ECU, I haven't had the chance to read over it yet and the manual isn't quite finished.

Thanks heaps for your help.

My Email

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

You can still leave the AFM in if you want, but just make sure in the software to choose MAP sensor. Try and get a clean plenum line if possible for the MAP.

What do you mean by "Try and get a clean plenum line if possible for the MAP"?

Where did you get your line plumed into?

Thanks GTS-t VSPEC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...