Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found this on another forum, not sure if its on here but i thought i would post it anyways.

Here's a guide on how to carbon overlay parts of your car.

You will need the following parts -

tools.jpg

Carbon cloth (twil looks best)

resin

acetone (if u want to clean your brushes - i use cheap ones and bin them)

plenty of latex gloves

mixing pots

measuring jug

syringe (for measuring hardner)

masking tape

Sharp scissors

Some stirrers - I use wooded spatulars

emery cloth

wet n dry 400grit to 1200 grit

polish

1) measure up your carbon cloth for the piece to be covered. Then using the masking tape tape up both sides where you intend to cut the cloth to prevent pulling the weave then cut through the middle of the tape -

Carbonoverlay1.jpg

2) Prep your piece to be overlayed - it should be black, if its not spray it up first so a colour doesnt show through the weave. It also needs a rub down with emery cloth.

Carbonoverlay5-1.jpg

3) brush a thin layer of resin mixed with 1% harder over the part to be overlayed then press the carbon cloth gently into place and tape up to the rear of the part to pull it into shape. You may need to change your gloves often so you dont pull the weave. Leave to dry for approx 45mins

sill1.jpg

4) Start building up thing layers of resin, you will need approx 5 layers to prevent breaking through to the cloth when sanding down. Each additional layer should be added after around 7 mins when the previous layer turns to a jelly consistency. You will now need to leave it for 1 week to fully cure -

finish1.jpg

5) you will now need to trim the excess cloth off - best tool I found was a dremmel -

BEFORE:

trim2.jpg

AFTER TRIMMING:

trim3.jpg

6) Start sanding down. work your way from 400 grit up to 1200 grit wet and dry then finish with a good quality polish for a really nice shine -

finish2-1.jpg

finish4-1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233499-how-to-carbon-overlay/
Share on other sites

Well not sure where in AUS u can buy the rolls but u can get about 90 sq. ft. for about $250, from the US, which would be more then ample to do a full interior (gear surround, dash ...ect...) i would think.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_fr...mp;_trksid=m270

Thats from the US but i im sure u can get it from other places within AUS at about the same price.

tip: when your letting it cure in your garage or whatever, put some lighting onto it, like a bedside table lamp or something that gives off a bit of heat (like you do when making homebrew or something). if its small you can leave it your oven (!) overnight if you can be bothered to sit and watch to make sure you dont burn your house down.

i definatly know that you CAN get rolls in aus, but i dont know where from.

just on the carbon rolls, My brother is a boat building / repairer by trade, and almost all the work the do is fibreglass,

anyway he said can order massive massive rolls of this overlay shit, he is considering usuing some to do up a few body piece on his car, (( he is making his own fibreglass guards bonnetc, boots etc

anyway, offtopic, for info on rolls, perhaps enquire a boat place local to you?

thats soo kool too bad its soo expensive to do and if u stuff up i guess ur fkd?

Carbon fibre prices are currently very high because there is so much demand from Airbus.

For some types of carbon fibre there is currently a long waiting list just to get raw materials.

- Adam

Edited by TheTunersGroup

in addition might be of help to sand down the original part evenly, just enough to make up for the thickness you're gonna be adding with the layer of cloth and all that resin. Especially areas that butt up against other parts and might be a tight squeeze. remember with CF you can always add more resin to make it look bigger, but you can't remove when its set.

This might be a silly question but i take it this is just an overlay yeah so your stock parts are just covered in real looking carbon fibre. This is not how you mould a whole dash is it. If not how would you make a mould for the dash. Got a mate interested in giving this a crack as well he has been thinkin bout giving it a shot for ages. Only reason i ask is the pic you posted it kinda looks like you have peeled the carbon off the stock part as in a mould. If that makes sence

This might be a silly question but i take it this is just an overlay yeah so your stock parts are just covered in real looking carbon fibre.

Yes

This is not how you mould a whole dash is it.

No

If not how would you make a mould for the dash. Got a mate interested in giving this a crack as well he has been thinkin bout giving it a shot for ages. Only reason i ask is the pic you posted it kinda looks like you have peeled the carbon off the stock part as in a mould. If that makes sence

To do what you're thinking is a lot more involved than just laying a sheet of carbon cloth on it and resining it up. You need to start by protecting the dash (foil, gladwrap, tape depending on the chemicals you're gonna use). then spray it with a coat of gelcoat, then lay fibreglass on top of that. once the fibreglass has started to tack, you might wanna build up some wood reinforcement so that it holds its shape when you pull it off the dash. Once you've got all that done you'll have a mould, which you can use to make your plug (replacement dash).

indeed, be very careful about putting resin hardened carbon cloth in front of your face in a car when it can flex. unless you like picking shards out of your eye. as stupid as it sounds, that's one instance where a fibreglass backed CF would be better as it won't splinter as much.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...