Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

depends on what kind of sound ur after and what kind of music u listen to as well champ but i would recommend if ur goin for 1 or 2 subs dont go smaller than a single 12 inch sub as u will find u are left wanting in the sound and bass department if u go for 10 inch subs...... either way u go with the 12 inch subs 1 is enough if it is put into the right enclosure u can get amazing sound out of it.... and two is insane if done corectly hope i have helped in some way

yeah i'd go 2 x 10inch although 1 x 10inch would give that sound ur after but as punisher said you will be left wanting more later on.. it will also depend on the output Wattage on the sub and having an amp to handle the power required.. go too low on either and it just wont be sufficient

when i got my car it had 2x12" pioneers, changed them for a single kicker 12" and it sounded great, untill it died, there warranty is not worth shit either they kept sending it back saying they couldnt find a problem, bought another one since i had a kicker box and that one died as well, now have a single jl 12" and it sounds awesome.

See If I go 12 inch, I can't fit it in the boot unless I remove the floor, and I prefer not to.

I'm pretty sure I can run two 10s in the back without removing the floor?

I have a Rockford P 300-1 monoblock, so that will pump 300RMS into my sub. I'm thinking two P3 10inch subs, or 2x12inch P2 Subs but that will require a custom install.

I'm into RnB, but I don't crank the stereo, just like having nice clear sound :wub:

See If I go 12 inch, I can't fit it in the boot unless I remove the floor, and I prefer not to.

I'm pretty sure I can run two 10s in the back without removing the floor?

I have a Rockford P 300-1 monoblock, so that will pump 300RMS into my sub. I'm thinking two P3 10inch subs, or 2x12inch P2 Subs but that will require a custom install.

I'm into RnB, but I don't crank the stereo, just like having nice clear sound :D

dont know if a 34 boot is smaller than a 33 but i have a single 12" box sitting in my boot no problem.

Don't be fooled into thinking that more is better. You can get great sound out of a single sub. Even a good quality 10" will sound excellent. What I would recommend doing is getting a small sealed box (sealed enclosures can be much smaller than ported, and they sound punchier) and fit a 12" sub in it. There's a sealed enclosure made by Qmax that you can get from JB. It's a good size - small enough to fit into my extremely shallow R32 boot. Then buy a nice driver for it, tune the amp correctly, and you're away.

well i have 1 12 inch sub and its great gives me all the bass plus my speakers in my car put out a bit of bass, i dont have the bass turned right up i just did it to test it i rekon ones enough, but then depends on ur music etc see i listen to alot of rock and 80's 70's like acdc deep purple kiss etc but if ur into the hard techno n stuff maybe go the 2 12inch for the full bass

  • 2 weeks later...

The car audio shop down the road from me has an enclosure sitting around that replaces part of a skylines boot. The guy said it wont take up any extra room. Not sure which model it will fit into but PM me for the places name as im not sure if i will be breaking the rules saying a stores name on here. Pretty sure they said they got it from the gold coast so prob wont see them around very much.

The car audio shop down the road from me has an enclosure sitting around that replaces part of a skylines boot. The guy said it wont take up any extra room. Not sure which model it will fit into but PM me for the places name as im not sure if i will be breaking the rules saying a stores name on here. Pretty sure they said they got it from the gold coast so prob wont see them around very much.

how much was this sub box? someone on here makes them to wat i imagine is the same design

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...