Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, heres the story so far. ive only recently had a 100,000km service (less than 1000km ago) in which they did all the usuals plus replace the transmission fluid. after that service, within a few hundred kms i experienced problems with the power when just cruising at a constant speed. the power would die and the engine revs would drop off, then jerk back up to rpm. the 4WD light would soon come on and also pressing the overdrive button wouldnt drop the gear down to 3rd.

i took it back and they replaced the transmission fluid, from the brand they put in to the genuine nissan fluid and also put 2 earthing straps on the body and engine as they beleived the 4wd was an electrical fault.

it was fine for a few days but the problem has come back with vengeance. today the power was dropping off harshly and it almost felt as though the car was almost dragging, and 4wd light on again.

this seems to happen intermittently, the rest of the time the transmission is flawless, WTF is going on?

perhaps its not the auto transmission but the transfer case?

argh i hope this doesnt drag me down into a money pit of hell

im in canberra by the way if anyone knows some specialists. ive been to autotech so far

Edited by zoomzoom

find the bleed nipple on the transfer case, situated at the top near the hose connectors , connect clear hose to nipple, run engine, loosen off nipple slowly, allow flow until no more bubbles come out. tighten nipple and check resovoir whilst engine still running. Dont allow the resovoir to get too low during bleed.

As Chook said, but I had a mate help me. Ran the resivor(??) down to almost empty, topped it up with fresh (bright red) fluid, drained it again, topped it up again. 3 times makes sure it's only fresh fluid in the system and all has been good since.

Cheers, Greg.

another follow up question:

is the fluid used in the tranfer case and attessa system similar to the transmission fluid? is it capable of retaining water?

ive always found this problem to be heat related, as it occurs after the car has been used for a good 40 minutes or more.

is it possible that theres water which vaporises under heat and causes problems like when you get water in brake fluid and it messes with the brakes?

im thinking if i bleed the air and theres still water in there it may be a pointless exercise. just replace the whole lot im thinking

it was checked at the 100k service but was clean so it wasnt replaced. i would have preferred it to be changed in the first place but ill have it done this week.

the car was especially bad on the drive home today. there was a 10km stretch where the power was dying on and off about every second.

i bloody hope its a simple fix :)

it was checked at the 100k service but was clean so it wasnt replaced. i would have preferred it to be changed in the first place but ill have it done this week.

the car was especially bad on the drive home today. there was a 10km stretch where the power was dying on and off about every second.

i bloody hope its a simple fix :(

There is nothing special about the Nissan fluid except the price. You can use the same ATF in the auto, Atessa and power steering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...