Jump to content
SAU Community

How Do I Tell If My Diff Is Fcuked?

Shaun
 Share

Recommended Posts

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

yeh i was aware of that... which is why im really tryin to get it the a-lsd workin.. otherwise i was going to find a r33 being wrecked and hopefully replace the diff centre and the axles... i mentioned it a few posts back..

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Are you talking about your GTR diff^^^^?

Ive got some stock R33 gtr dumps if you want them. Theyre the cast things off the back of the turbine housings arent they. Just to clarify.

HR31 Diff, but same principle

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
yeh i was aware of that... which is why im really tryin to get it the a-lsd workin.. otherwise i was going to find a r33 being wrecked and hopefully replace the diff centre and the axles... i mentioned it a few posts back..

the clutch packs upgrade are for the mechanical type LSDs as found in 32 GTR not the A-LSD you have. yours may have clutch packs inside (i'm not 100% sure) but what it has is a friction fluid and a pump to adjust the fluid pressure, that's what makes it 'lock'. I don't think the nismo clutch pack upgrade will work in the A-LSD. often the problem is maybe the fluid needs changing, or the pump is worn out, or something else in the diff is worn out. I've never been a fan of the active LSD. too unpredictable, the last thing you want in a diff is it deciding to lock or unlock at various times, you just want it to operate the same way every time so you know what's coming!

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
the clutch packs upgrade are for the mechanical type LSDs as found in 32 GTR not the A-LSD you have. yours may have clutch packs inside (i'm not 100% sure) but what it has is a friction fluid and a pump to adjust the fluid pressure, that's what makes it 'lock'. I don't think the nismo clutch pack upgrade will work in the A-LSD. often the problem is maybe the fluid needs changing, or the pump is worn out, or something else in the diff is worn out. I've never been a fan of the active LSD. too unpredictable, the last thing you want in a diff is it deciding to lock or unlock at various times, you just want it to operate the same way every time so you know what's coming!

The alsd does have clutch packs, We have mine apart atm. I want this diff working again as its a far bigger stronger diff than the stock gtst number but its around a thousand bucks for a new clutch pack.

That may sway me to replacing diff and half shafts too.

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

fineline can you find out if it has the same clutch packs as the normal gtr diffs for me, i have changed my fluid on mine completely using both the bleeders..also what sort of condition are your clutch packs in?

Im also tryin to get mine working again, from what i can tell the lock between left and right wheels may be pressure dependant, meaning when there is no pressure all the power goes to the left wheel and as pressure is feed into the right side of the diff the power is transferred to the right wheel, and varying the pressure into the diff varies the torque distribution .. im basing this on that theres only one oil pressure feed into the diff and a feed that links them together.. It's really just a guess i may have to pull it apart to understand it more.. only other way to control the torque split would be electronically,

It's stupid the Japanese didnt make no v-spec manuals

I do agree with beer baron tho the unpredictability makes It pretty hard sometimes, when your drifting right it over steers heaps and to the left it under steers so much you end up doing a 3 lane drift

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
fineline can you find out if it has the same clutch packs as the normal gtr diffs for me, i have changed my fluid on mine completely using both the bleeders..also what sort of condition are your clutch packs in?

Im also tryin to get mine working again, from what i can tell the lock between left and right wheels may be pressure dependant, meaning when there is no pressure all the power goes to the left wheel and as pressure is feed into the right side of the diff the power is transferred to the right wheel, and varying the pressure into the diff varies the torque distribution .. im basing this on that theres only one oil pressure feed into the diff and a feed that links them together.. It's really just a guess i may have to pull it apart to understand it more.. only other way to control the torque split would be electronically,

It's stupid the Japanese didnt make no v-spec manuals

I do agree with beer baron tho the unpredictability makes It pretty hard sometimes, when your drifting right it over steers heaps and to the left it under steers so much you end up doing a 3 lane drift

My knowledge at this stage is very basic Jarrod. I believe from looking at the diff that what you are saying is correct. I have a diff mob up here going to take a bo peep at it with a view to shimming the clutchpak to extend its life so I'll wait for the verdict.

The other idea I find very intriguing, When the giant boys (russel and Mark) purchased the 33 they are building it came with a manually operated ALSD. The system from Russels description over the phone involves the use of a drift style hydraulic handbrake with a master cylinder and a cock to lock off the return when the desired pressure is reached.

In other words, pump the hydro handbrake to whatever pressure you determine and hold it whilst you turn off the cock to stop the pressure bleeding back off and hey, PRESTO!

It sounds simple enough and once you determined the amount of pressure required you could set the diff as a 1.5 way or 2 way etc.

If the diff boys tell me the clutch pack in my diff is acceptable I am going to explore this option further. An added bonus would be the removal of the motors pumps etc that drive the diff.

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

yeh ill be interested to hear more about this, sounds like a good idea.. maybe theres another way to pump up the pressure with the use of a switch to turn it from one wheel to lockd.. definately sounds like its not a problem with the clutch packs themself slipping.. either a sensor or pressure problem.. going to take it for abit of a spin tonight to see if theres an improvement since i flushed out the hydraulic fluid from the diff

cerci Proficient

cerci

Posted
Posted

jarrod, try asking Moanie on here about her car

she has an r33 with alsd and got rid of it and now has a good mechanical diff at the back end

i would give up on the alsd, its an expencive hi-tech heap of shit pretty much, even when working "like it should" it will dissapoint 90% of the time

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

Ill try and work out how to give her a msg to find out what she needed to replace.. but i have to disagree with you cerci back when i first imported my car when she was near new like.. the active lsd was a joy to drive.. its hard to describe but you could thru it so hard into a corner n it drift lovely.. and when cornering hard it seem to power the outside wheel more n get you around more easy.. but if u do just lock it, its going to lose that capability

hopefully my cousin pikd up this wreck r33 for a engine swap his doing and i was hoping to pick the diff up from that.. but i want to at least attempt myself to see if i can get this diff working before i junk yard a 5000 diff ¬_¬

they do a good job tho at preventing troubleshooting of this diff =P

Cheers for the advice tho guys

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
My knowledge at this stage is very basic Jarrod. I believe from looking at the diff that what you are saying is correct. I have a diff mob up here going to take a bo peep at it with a view to shimming the clutchpak to extend its life so I'll wait for the verdict.

The other idea I find very intriguing, When the giant boys (russel and Mark) purchased the 33 they are building it came with a manually operated ALSD. The system from Russels description over the phone involves the use of a drift style hydraulic handbrake with a master cylinder and a cock to lock off the return when the desired pressure is reached.

In other words, pump the hydro handbrake to whatever pressure you determine and hold it whilst you turn off the cock to stop the pressure bleeding back off and hey, PRESTO!

It sounds simple enough and once you determined the amount of pressure required you could set the diff as a 1.5 way or 2 way etc.

If the diff boys tell me the clutch pack in my diff is acceptable I am going to explore this option further. An added bonus would be the removal of the motors pumps etc that drive the diff.

Fineline & Jarrod,

How did you guys go with your A-LSDs? What did you end up doing?

Mine in my R33 GTR Vspec is open wheeling major. I was thinking of replacing the whole bloody rear diff with a standard GTR one.

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...