Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For an R33, this is a pain in the arse, but it would be an awesome method as the alternator is always off when the car is off! Dang.

the factory wire on the alternator is directly run to the battery so even if car is off it still has power running backwards through it

the 33 must be diff to the 32 cause all i did was zip tie the wire to the top of the fuel line and followed it all the way to the engine bay, mounted a fuse holder to the strut tower and then across to the alternator, took about 1 hour for the hole job, you just need a set of ramps to back car onto.

although having the battery in the boot makes it alot easier and for the diff in voltage isn't really worth the effort, for me it was run wire to battery or move it 300mm over to alternator

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

excuse my ignorance, but wouldn't it be easier to use the negative as the trigger on the pump instead of the positive?

I'm Currently wiring in a external 044 with surge tank and manual priming button.

Fuel Pump Trigger on Pin 18 on the ECU of the RB25DET, is that a positive or a negative output?

Cheers.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 4 years later...
5 hours ago, Cali_GTR_R32 said:

Hey guys I jus bought a gtr r32 stock rb26dett I was lookin to do the 12v fuel pump mod but I cnt seem to open the pics can anymore help I'm a visual learner pics would be perfect 

thanks guys ?

just ground off the earth on your fuel pump for now... no need to get fancy until you start playing around with bigger pumps :)

  • 2 years later...
On 6/8/2010 at 9:25 PM, gumflapper said:

see if this diagram i made helps you understand it a bit better

post-44390-1275989100_thumb.jpg

link to other topic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...html&st=220

will the factory power modulate the pump under idle wired this way? i assume that it does the factory pump.. so will it pulse the relay switches duty cycle to keep pump slower at idle?

54 minutes ago, boomtheroom said:

will the factory power modulate the pump under idle wired this way? i assume that it does the factory pump.. so will it pulse the relay switches duty cycle to keep pump slower at idle?

no, not at all. you cant PWM a relay, the factory control dropped the pump speed with a resistor, this will bypass that and be full speed all the time. 

5 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

no, not at all. you cant PWM a relay, the factory control dropped the pump speed with a resistor, this will bypass that and be full speed all the time. 

o can you buy w modulator to run the pump at half speed all the time if current fuel needs only require that amount?

15 hours ago, boomtheroom said:

o can you buy w modulator to run the pump at half speed all the time if current fuel needs only require that amount?

How many pumps do you have in your car? Honestly If you're running a single pump don't even worry about it.

 

  • 1 month later...

Hi everyone, first post! Just joined up from the UK ?

I have just completed hard wiring the fuel pump following this guide (was a massive help so thank you for that!!) 

Only part I am unsure of and can’t see here....

The earth wire you cut, the pump side goes to the chassis as instructed, but what about the harness side from the controller?? Do I need to ground this or leave it unconnected and cover it? 

Edited by ChrisDC90

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...