Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need to get new pads n rotors for the stag. the guy i bought it off said hed put new pads on it but obviously didnt as they wore through the other day. ive heard the s model runs slightly bigger brakes? can anyone recomend where to go in adelaide or what will fit ect.

need urgent, my only car at the moment. thats drivable anyway :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/
Share on other sites

so can i get factory pads n rotors from nissan?

If they are the same as my RS4T then:

Front rotors: DBA 4909SR and DBA4909SL (left and right) ...no longer certain about numbers for rears. BUT check prices and dimensions (esp offset on rears) before you buy.

I think they are the same as S14 200SX (if they are more common in Australia)

But double check... thre has been much confusion

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4115699
Share on other sites

A guy on ebay sells pads for $195 delivered. His listing is finished but I've seen it a few times. His nick is "agoodvib" and the link to his completed listing is http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-STAGEA-WGC34...1QQcmdZViewItem

hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4115830
Share on other sites

S2's a a bit different but how much did they charge you by the way? All 4 corners?

ABS brake services city branch (in adelaide) got me a set of pads in for the front of my 97 s1 stagea within a couple of hours. And they are Lucas Premium pads so they are not to bad....
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4116430
Share on other sites

ok i found the genuine pads for bout $200 but guy at sprint said he could do lucas for $100 set.

the dba 4909sr is looking promising. nissan said the 4 must stand for 4000 series? 909 is the rotor and sr stans for sloted rotor, but hes unsure if its the right one.

i gave the number to sprint he said that sounds bout right and he could get them but for twice the price as i could. and that was from qweensland friction manufactures. can anyone else add to this to confirm these rotors fitting cause i wont be able to return them.

by the way i would take them off and have them matched up but its the only car i got roadworthy at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4119181
Share on other sites

ok i found the genuine pads for bout $200 but guy at sprint said he could do lucas for $100 set.

the dba 4909sr is looking promising. nissan said the 4 must stand for 4000 series? 909 is the rotor and sr stans for sloted rotor, but hes unsure if its the right one.

i gave the number to sprint he said that sounds bout right and he could get them but for twice the price as i could. and that was from qweensland friction manufactures. can anyone else add to this to confirm these rotors fitting cause i wont be able to return them.

by the way i would take them off and have them matched up but its the only car i got roadworthy at the moment.

These are for front only. S = slotted l=left r=right a= heat treated (optional, more expensive but better). I believe these are made in Australia so you may be able to track down the manufacturer or else try some other auto parts places (not Nissan).

p.s. If you are on a budget (for now) and not intending to hammer the brakes you could see if the rotors could be machined.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4120299
Share on other sites

Lucas pads FTW!!!!

They are pre-baked so the break in period is bugger all compared to other pads. Not too dusty either IMO.

A member here in WA gets his brake pads rebonded for about $60 per set so maybe PM chuckie for future reference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4123721
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

ok the rotors took two weeks but finally here. ive just sat one of them over the ones that are currently on my car and they seem to be 1 maybe 2 mm smaller, but i do have a big lip on the edge so f*k nows. im having troble geting the original ones off ive bashed em slide hammerd em sprayed em WTF. i dont have to take the hub nut off do i?

has anyone else had to bash em off? they do look fairly corroded around the inner edge.

lucas pads no is db1439 off navara.

DBA 4909SR is what i ordered from nissan QFM slot em.

any hints or tips on getting these rotors off asap appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4159484
Share on other sites

ok ok ok. this is f**kt up. went out and with a bit of frustration i got the rotors off. then put new ones on then went to put pads on and the lucas pads no i just gave to yas is no good. they look the part but there about 3mm to long and wont fit the calipers. so now im putting my shitty brakes bak togetha and back to were i began. ;):D:):bunny::bunny::bunny::):down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4159521
Share on other sites

Shoulda checked the brake sticky dude, we just covered S2 stagea rotors. The front rotor is 49mm offset not 54 like silvia/skyline.

The only rotors i could find that would fit are genuine nissan or imported from japan specifically for S2 stageas.

DBA dont make a rotor that fits.

I fitted dixcel slotted rotors and wedsport sc pads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4168704
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...