Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought this 92 shell to build into a stripped track car but I currently need the cash and the space back. I have this car spread everywhere atm. It is original paint with NO RUST or RAIL DAMAGE. Shell is dead straight. Will need a paint job. Only problem is it is missing radiator support(same as gtst?? and was unpicked nicely) ,bonnet,lights etc. Taken to repair another car. Has gaurds, brakes, all glass, complete rear end inc diff lights etc, front drive shafts, steering rack, most interior except front seats. Another set doors. All wiring looms. Rear parcel shelf electronics.

Comes with apexi shocks and nismo lmgt2 17x9 rims. Car currently is stripped of most parts so all it needs is the deadening scraping out, painting and re-assembly.

NO ENGINE OR BOX!!!!

After $3500 and will fright car to anywhere at your expense.

I have had heaps of gtr's and this shell is easily the best of all the cars out there. If it in this condition it will still be tight still.

Called DOTARS and they said it came in under the old scheme and has import approval.

In Melb.

Also have a RB26 complete with a cracked ring land on 6. Standard bores with no damage. $2000.

  • 2 weeks later...
Still available Geoff.

Are you able to e-mail me some pics, especially of the front with no rad support? [email protected]

Has this shell ever been road registered within Australia? If not has it been complied?

Thanks, Geoff.

The shell isn't currently complied.

Engine doesn't have the sensors. Don't know if I have the starter loom.

Could sell the Nismo's to you for $1000 on your door. I know there worth a lot more but there just taking up room atm.

post-1670-1222762380_thumb.jpg

you say "old scheme" wich one is it?

dotars will not give out this info if its not in my name.... how long since it was landed? and what is the month and year of the car? the import approval will have all this info on it!! (including the "scheme" it was imported on..whats it say?

I have had DOTARS give me import approval for a car imported under an unknown name. They issue a letter stating the car came in with approval ............

I haven't applied for the import approval letter. I have only spoken to them over the phone.

I have no idea about which month it is or how long it has been here.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...