Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so going from stock, what diameter would be best suited as an upgrade for an R32GTST?

currently have coilvoers, adjustable upper arms and am getting castor rods in this week - hoping to install the castor rods and sway bars at the same time but i don't know much about suspension.

What type and diamter are you guys running on your R32 gtst's? And what diameter are the stock ones?

cheers

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahaha, The whiteline factory is only 2km away from my house on the C coast. :banana:

im getting

Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (front) =$195

Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (rear) =$220.50

Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (front) =$117

Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (rear) =$153

Seeing as its a GTS-4 i had to get all the GTR products but its still cheap.

getting the top of the line swaybars and links. Because of the discount it makes it that cheap and there standard swaybars and links cost more than the price im getting there best ones for :D

I keep hearing better stuff and even more popularity with whiteline nowdays.

hahaha, The whiteline factory is only 2km away from my house on the C coast. :(

im getting

Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (front) =$195

Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (rear) =$220.50

Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (front) =$117

Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (rear) =$153

Seeing as its a GTS-4 i had to get all the GTR products but its still cheap.

getting the top of the line swaybars and links. Because of the discount it makes it that cheap and there standard swaybars and links cost more than the price im getting there best ones for :)

I keep hearing better stuff and even more popularity with whiteline nowdays.

im assuming this would suit 32R as well?? do u need the link kit??

im assuming this would suit 32R as well?? do u need the link kit??

(SAME AS THE R33 GTR AND GTS-4)

Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (front) BNF27Z

Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (front) KLC008

Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (rear) KLC009

(THE ONLY THING DIFFERENCE IS THE REAR SWAYBAR, ITS MADE IN A SIZE 24mm ONLY SO YOU WILL HAVE 22mm ON THE FRONT AND 24mm ON THE BACK)

Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 24m (rear) BNR26XZ

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

I don't think you do ...just checked the web site and it states those parts are for "RACE USE ONLY".

What's the price difference between the adjustable and non-adjustable, does anyone know? Is it worth the extra dough for the adjustable ones? Somehow I suspect once these things are on the car most people would never "adjust" anything..

edit: NO price diff for adj./non adjs apparently according to web site, $229 for a GTT front sway bar + gst.

hahaha, The whiteline factory is only 2km away from my house on the C coast. :D

im getting

Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (front) =$195

Swaybar - Extra Heavy duty blade adjustable 22m (rear) =$220.50

Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (front) =$117

Swaybar link kit - Spherical rod end (rear) =$153

Seeing as its a GTS-4 i had to get all the GTR products but its still cheap.

getting the top of the line swaybars and links. Because of the discount it makes it that cheap and there standard swaybars and links cost more than the price im getting there best ones for :banana:

I keep hearing better stuff and even more popularity with whiteline nowdays.

That's only a warehouse at Somersby, the swaybars aren't manufactured there.

The rear at 22 mm is too small, I always use a 24 mm on the 4wd's

Make sure to fit the dust covers plus greaze and regularly service the spherical links, otherwise they will wear out very fast and knock like crazy.

Cheers

Gary

I need an honest opinion here... would swaybars improve handling for a daily? Or is it only for maniacs who like to take every single corner at high speed?

ABSOLUTELY they improve handling for a daily. They're the best bang for buck handling mod IMO.

I need an honest opinion here... would swaybars improve handling for a daily? Or is it only for maniacs who like to take every single corner at high speed?

u will notice the car sitting a lot more flat, the ride wont be compromised, but in tight parking situations with unlevel ground u will notice more inside wheel lift and the wheel spinning freely (unless u have a mech LSD or locker)

another question: ive picked up a set of sway bars(front seems to be 27mm, rear about 24mm) the on the rear part where it bolts to what i call the link, is vertical rather than horizontal. is there somesort of link kit for this, or have i just got the wrong one. The part came off a 2 door r33, trying to fit to r33 4 door.

what about bumps/potholes though on a daily ? My understanding of the way antisway bars work is if you hit a pot hole say mid roundabout it would be worse than without them ? Happens a lot in the inner city ..seems whenever I turn, wherever I turn there are friggin potholes

what about bumps/potholes though on a daily ? My understanding of the way antisway bars work is if you hit a pot hole say mid roundabout it would be worse than without them ? Happens a lot in the inner city ..seems whenever I turn, wherever I turn there are friggin potholes

You have a shock absorber problem not a swaybar problem.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...