Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How manny killer wasps does your 33 make before melting into the tarmac, champ?

I wouldn't worry about the oil changing colour too much at all. Even synthetic will turn black - especially if the cleaning agents in most street engine oils are doing their thing.

Once it goes back together Adrian, Kon's expecting somewhere between 450 - 480 hot ponies from it at the tarmac melting stage... It already lights third on the roll before it came apart again... :ninja:

But, I don't see what this has to do with a sensor on a car, that affects absolutely nothing in the way of the tune, and hence, won't affect power, or driveability.

Edited by MBS206
  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Once it goes back together Adrian, Kon's expecting somewhere between 450 - 480 hot ponies from it at the tarmac melting stage... It already lights third on the roll before it came apart again... :)

But, I don't see what this has to do with a sensor on a car, that affects absolutely nothing in the way of the tune, and hence, won't affect power, or driveability.

The point is you're arcing up hard over someone else's car and giving yourself a brain aneurysm for your trouble. Relax and let people think what they want.

:O

hey guys can we keep this on topic? this is the 2nd thread that cara has started as the first one went awol.

cheers

If Cara could find the real problem, and then post her dyno "figures" and then back up the power with a good MPH, not an issue...

Until then, those who know, are just sitting back pissing themselves laughing at her for believing the knock sensors are the culprit.

Come on Cara, dyno it, and then drag it!

I just think Matts frustration is stemming from the fact that the Power FC doesn't rescale the ignition map based on a knock sensor input. This has been known for years and years and is the biggest gripe people have with the PFC is that it doesn't respond to the knock signal like a factory ECU would....all it does is flash a pretty light at you and politely inform you the engine is pinging its nuts off.

And I quote from one of the PFC forums "the power fc has no control or measures against knock"

So the act of Cara replacing a knock sensor and then getting power back is perplexing at best. All I think is being said here is there must be some underlying issue that has not yet been found. Even bad fuel can have a really marked effect on a borderline tune. I've had a week of about -20rwkw after I filled up with something other than optimax/BP ultimate.

why is it sooo important for me to post up my figures for you? so u can turn around and say "look i told you so?" mate go fu** urself i dont have to prove anything to you or anything else.

im sick of this shit and my threads hijacked. i will not post one thing ever again in the n/a section due to people thinking that they know more about my car than my tuner.

I WANT THIS THREAD LOCKED NOW.

u can all get stuffed.

and Eug, this is not directed at u or any one else, the people that this is directed at now who they are,

Edited by MissR34

*Yawn* Nice Tanty...

As to why you "must" (PS, I never said you had to) I'd just like to see a touch of evidence that your missing power is back from something that can't affect it.

MissR34: You seem very stuck up personally to me, and stubborn. You're unable to listen to those who KNOW what can and can't affect your PowerFC to alter it's fuelling and timing.

Those of us who have told you the Knock sensors can't "fix" this missing power, would like to see how you magically got it back.

Oh, and the last person I saw throw a tanty like that was about oh... 5 years old, and an only child...

You really need to be less defensive of everything, open your eyes, and accept some Constructive Criticism. If you do, you might find your issue with the missing power.

Hell, it could be just a set of plugs fouled, it could be bad fuel, your AFM might be stuffing up and want cleaning, you could have a vac leak. But there is no chance, knock sensors will affect the PFC. If you accept this, then those of us here, can help you find the issue.

But firstly, you need to accept, knock sensors won't affect your tune AT ALL because you run a PFC. And this, is why people are saying your tuner may not be the best to listen to at the moment, as he doesn't seem to understand this fact from the PFC.

my last comment wasn't a stab attempt, i was merely stating that it may quite possibly be a combination of other unknown factors including the change of sensors which fixed your issue. however i can only speculate at best.

this is just going back and forth and i no longer see any reason for this thread to remain active. everyone was reminded to play nicely and to keep things civil.

/locked

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...