Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Appoligies for not expanding. Required a fair amount of Dyno time and eventually a new firmware upgrade from Haltech onto the Sports 2000.

I'll get a better explanation but apparently now my boost increases with my foot going down on the accelerator (Synced to RPM ???). So if it's halfway I'm running about 10-12psi and when its all the way down I run the current 18psi. Dont ask me how I'm not in the know but I will get a better explanation from my Tuner with some key Tuner speak that will explain.

Plus it's going all the way to 8250rpm where it's configured to cut out.

Little off topic, but part of my 300-320rwkw goal, is just to replace the Front pipes, I'm deciding between these 2.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HKS-MILD-STEEL-FRONT-PIPE-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-GTR-/140681646997?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c1479395

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/380339215174?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

The HKS one doesn't say anything about a direct replacment though. But it looks like it will bolt straight on, and half the price :). will I really see any noticeable gain in power or flow? Do people replace the front pipes when there going for this 300-330 goal.

Cheers

Also try the Trust/Greddy MX front pipes, they are listed at $608 on the GCG website (might even get them cheaper if you speak to Mark out there) and they are the same sIze as Apexi. I use them and they made a big difference to midrange even with the old standard turbos, so definitely go the bigger pipes.

If you are chasing 300+ then they need to be swapped out otherwise you will have a rather large exhaust restriction.

Also try the Trust/Greddy MX front pipes, they are listed at $608 on the GCG website (might even get them cheaper if you speak to Mark out there) and they are the same sIze as Apexi. I use them and they made a big difference to midrange even with the old standard turbos, so definitely go the bigger pipes.

If you are chasing 300+ then they need to be swapped out otherwise you will have a rather large exhaust restriction.

Damn, now I gotta decide between Greddy & Apexi. On another note, could I change the stock dump pipes at the sametime? Like a swap in and out, or does this requite other stuff removed, turbo's out etc :blink:

Edited by 91BNR32

Wouldn't even bother with dump pipes unless you are pulling the turbos out, a quick look under there will tell the story. The std turbos will run out of puff before the dumps.

Just stick with big front pipes and big hi flow cat until the turbos are swapped out, then change the dumps.

Thanks. it says it suits BNR32, so hopefully will bolt straight on. Has to be an improvement over the Stock front pipes :)

Is the exhaust std on the car??

Basically fit the biggest exhaust you can to free as much flow as possible

Is the exhaust std on the car??

Basically fit the biggest exhaust you can to free as much flow as possible

Lucky I had a look under the car, it has some sort of custom front pipe with a built in decat pipe on it aswell. Weird.. pinch.gif looks like 2 x 65mm & 80mm out. I'd need to buy a front pipe & a high flow cat if I were to do a direct replacement. But yea better flow = better power.

RB20 or RB25 ones will work aswell. If you have the standard airbox still it will require some holes redrilling but they will work fine and be more than enough for 300kws and cost a lot less.

Would it make sense to buy some Nismo AFM's to have a comfortable 300-320 rwkw? I know the Standard ones max out at about 300, is this safe though?

no point buying AFMs or injectors for your goals. We've said it a few times already.

Both are fine for upto 300rwkw, you can make more, it just depends. Every set-up is different.

If it maxes out @ 290rwkw, so be it. For the $1400 it'll cost (AFM/Injectors) just to get 10-20rwkw...

Only you can decide if it's of any value to you. I'd say no.

Also buying 2nd hand AFMs is also wasted money. If they start to fail or play up, you end up buying new ones or chasing gremlins.

Im still tossing up what setup to go for.

As it stands I’ve got a forged bottom end from when the engine received a fresh up and rebuild 1500km ago, Tomei Poncams (type B), 800cc injectors, Nismo fuel pump, PowerFC, Boost Controller, Nismo twin plate.

Ive got Tomei cam gears, Z32 AFM’s sitting on the shelf along with a 100mm thick intercooler as I had large HP aspirations for the car but I’m not sure that the trade off for lag would be worth it as the car is pretty much a street driven car. I had the HKS2530’s in mind as preference #1 followed by the 2860-5’s second behind but the -9’s are starting to entice me with the response benefits.

With my above mods what route would be best for my application?

Sell the cooler (use stock one, its fine), buy -9s

That's what you do if you want response/street car.

Otherwise do the other stuff and go for more power/lag. It's as simple as a choice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...