Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i drive this

skyline-1.jpg

so i got my car tuned last week and have been having nothing but problems

and the dyno is whacked looking

dyno2.jpg

current mods are: safc neo, custom t3 (stock compressor housing bored out with a bigger wheel, t3 exhuast housing), sard fpr, greddy fmic, 3inch straight pipe

can anyone tell me why there is a huge "dip" in the powerband?

Edited by sd9k
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236635-rb25-engine-troubles/
Share on other sites

need ecu

meh alot of money went out this past month so it will have to wait

which baffles me is that my car has run perfectly fine in the past with about the same amount of hp

any other ideas?

AFM maxing out by the looks of it and hitting airflow cut. How you managed even that power on the stock AFM is interesting....

Also, you aren't running the standard injectors and fuel pump are you?

Edited by PM-R33

ya stock injectors and fuel pump

prolly back the hp down to around 230-250 or so

i've ran that power before with nps

but i think it's just way too lean

takin git back to the dyno friday

so hopefully everything will be sorted by then

or it rather be

ha

Yep AFRs are horrible, knock sensor is probably going nutso

huh?

AFR's look fine to me, sitting on 12:8 - 13:1 quite consitently. Dosn't seem anything wrong there

Gets a slight leanout as the RPM goes up, but that looks to be totally controlled by the tune as its not sharp, its slight, even and linear.

270rwhp is 200rwkw, which is what is probably the limit of the stock turbo.

And as your the aftermarket turbo, its likely reaching the AFM limit as stated. Every car is different with the AFM. Some are fine, some dont like it. Just how each seem to be really.

I'd be looking to

1. Change the fuel pump (do it regardless)

2. Upgrading the AFM

In the short term to get it driving nice, smooth and so on. Retune required there.

3. As i'd roughly say the turbo should make 340rwhp or so (hard to tell but thats what id be expecting), injectors might not be a bad investment at some point depending on how 1 & 2 go.

Cheers

remember ppl US power is about 20 to 40 % more then Aussie power. We work on true HP figures not the fairy HP that gets quoted on the other side of the globe.

that AFR is too lean. i would not let any car off the dyno with a AFR like that unless the owner knows it needs to be fixed. IMHO

remember ppl US power is about 20 to 40 % more then Aussie power. We work on true HP figures not the fairy HP that gets quoted on the other side of the globe.

Couldn't disagree with this more - so bored of hearing Aussies say that. If any dynos could be said to read "untrue", its Aussie dynos. Low reading doesn't mean more true.

that AFR is too lean. i would not let any car off the dyno with a AFR like that unless the owner knows it needs to be fixed. IMHO

Very much agreeing with that - not sure why sd9k is asking for advice and then basically ignoring it. Sd9k - you are LUCKY that you haven't blown your engine up running that kind of setup, the ECU is obviously trying to save it and with no help from the S-AFC.

A Neo by no stretch of the imagination gives you a decent proper tune, and you shouldn't be running a bigger turbo like that with stock AFM/injectors/pump. I am pretty damn sure anything else you try at this stage will not work, a proper ECU and associated fuelling changes are the first things you should be considering. Really - you should have done that before changing the turbo if limited funds are an issue.

remember ppl US power is about 20 to 40 % more then Aussie power. We work on true HP figures not the fairy HP that gets quoted on the other side of the globe.

that AFR is too lean. i would not let any car off the dyno with a AFR like that unless the owner knows it needs to be fixed. IMHO

Haven't people been tuning around that a lot lately?

More higher end tuners etc.

I cant remember exactly ;)

Okay so your saying aussie dyno's read low compared to the ones used in the US ? that would explain a few things.

and yes that car needs some serious attention. if you drive it hard like that it will blow in a matter of time. Take the advice given by these guys, computer, injectors and fuel pump is a MUST for this car or you will destroy the engine, have to buy a replacement and then still be where you started from.

Okay so your saying aussie dyno's read low compared to the ones used in the US ? that would explain a few things.

Dyno Dynamics are pretty much the lowest reading dynos used anywhere. Again, that doesn't mean they are more or less accurate - they just put smaller numbers out.

  • 2 weeks later...
Couldn't disagree with this more - so bored of hearing Aussies say that. If any dynos could be said to read "untrue", its Aussie dynos. Low reading doesn't mean more true.

Very much agreeing with that - not sure why sd9k is asking for advice and then basically ignoring it. Sd9k - you are LUCKY that you haven't blown your engine up running that kind of setup, the ECU is obviously trying to save it and with no help from the S-AFC.

A Neo by no stretch of the imagination gives you a decent proper tune, and you shouldn't be running a bigger turbo like that with stock AFM/injectors/pump. I am pretty damn sure anything else you try at this stage will not work, a proper ECU and associated fuelling changes are the first things you should be considering. Really - you should have done that before changing the turbo if limited funds are an issue.

i'm not ignoring advice at all man

i just don't come on here that much

but as far as the car is concerned right now

the guy who was supposed to retune the car never returned my calls

so i said f**k it and returned the boost back down to stock

and all of the corrections on the safc back down to 0 and the car runs fine like it did

and as far as the turbo on the car, it came like that when i bought it so i didn't really have a choice in the matter

but thankfully i'm coming into some moeny here next week like 1k bucks

so i'm pretty hyped

going to buy 550cc injectors, GTR fuel pump, and a z32 maf

is an ecu reflash a good idea or should i just wait to get a PFC

i've heard nothing but good things about PFC so i'm assuming that's the standard esp for RB's

but i'm open to other options as well

thank you all for the support and advice :cool:

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...