Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i drive this

skyline-1.jpg

so i got my car tuned last week and have been having nothing but problems

and the dyno is whacked looking

dyno2.jpg

current mods are: safc neo, custom t3 (stock compressor housing bored out with a bigger wheel, t3 exhuast housing), sard fpr, greddy fmic, 3inch straight pipe

can anyone tell me why there is a huge "dip" in the powerband?

Edited by sd9k
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236635-rb25-engine-troubles/
Share on other sites

need ecu

meh alot of money went out this past month so it will have to wait

which baffles me is that my car has run perfectly fine in the past with about the same amount of hp

any other ideas?

AFM maxing out by the looks of it and hitting airflow cut. How you managed even that power on the stock AFM is interesting....

Also, you aren't running the standard injectors and fuel pump are you?

Edited by PM-R33

ya stock injectors and fuel pump

prolly back the hp down to around 230-250 or so

i've ran that power before with nps

but i think it's just way too lean

takin git back to the dyno friday

so hopefully everything will be sorted by then

or it rather be

ha

Yep AFRs are horrible, knock sensor is probably going nutso

huh?

AFR's look fine to me, sitting on 12:8 - 13:1 quite consitently. Dosn't seem anything wrong there

Gets a slight leanout as the RPM goes up, but that looks to be totally controlled by the tune as its not sharp, its slight, even and linear.

270rwhp is 200rwkw, which is what is probably the limit of the stock turbo.

And as your the aftermarket turbo, its likely reaching the AFM limit as stated. Every car is different with the AFM. Some are fine, some dont like it. Just how each seem to be really.

I'd be looking to

1. Change the fuel pump (do it regardless)

2. Upgrading the AFM

In the short term to get it driving nice, smooth and so on. Retune required there.

3. As i'd roughly say the turbo should make 340rwhp or so (hard to tell but thats what id be expecting), injectors might not be a bad investment at some point depending on how 1 & 2 go.

Cheers

remember ppl US power is about 20 to 40 % more then Aussie power. We work on true HP figures not the fairy HP that gets quoted on the other side of the globe.

that AFR is too lean. i would not let any car off the dyno with a AFR like that unless the owner knows it needs to be fixed. IMHO

remember ppl US power is about 20 to 40 % more then Aussie power. We work on true HP figures not the fairy HP that gets quoted on the other side of the globe.

Couldn't disagree with this more - so bored of hearing Aussies say that. If any dynos could be said to read "untrue", its Aussie dynos. Low reading doesn't mean more true.

that AFR is too lean. i would not let any car off the dyno with a AFR like that unless the owner knows it needs to be fixed. IMHO

Very much agreeing with that - not sure why sd9k is asking for advice and then basically ignoring it. Sd9k - you are LUCKY that you haven't blown your engine up running that kind of setup, the ECU is obviously trying to save it and with no help from the S-AFC.

A Neo by no stretch of the imagination gives you a decent proper tune, and you shouldn't be running a bigger turbo like that with stock AFM/injectors/pump. I am pretty damn sure anything else you try at this stage will not work, a proper ECU and associated fuelling changes are the first things you should be considering. Really - you should have done that before changing the turbo if limited funds are an issue.

remember ppl US power is about 20 to 40 % more then Aussie power. We work on true HP figures not the fairy HP that gets quoted on the other side of the globe.

that AFR is too lean. i would not let any car off the dyno with a AFR like that unless the owner knows it needs to be fixed. IMHO

Haven't people been tuning around that a lot lately?

More higher end tuners etc.

I cant remember exactly ;)

Okay so your saying aussie dyno's read low compared to the ones used in the US ? that would explain a few things.

and yes that car needs some serious attention. if you drive it hard like that it will blow in a matter of time. Take the advice given by these guys, computer, injectors and fuel pump is a MUST for this car or you will destroy the engine, have to buy a replacement and then still be where you started from.

Okay so your saying aussie dyno's read low compared to the ones used in the US ? that would explain a few things.

Dyno Dynamics are pretty much the lowest reading dynos used anywhere. Again, that doesn't mean they are more or less accurate - they just put smaller numbers out.

  • 2 weeks later...
Couldn't disagree with this more - so bored of hearing Aussies say that. If any dynos could be said to read "untrue", its Aussie dynos. Low reading doesn't mean more true.

Very much agreeing with that - not sure why sd9k is asking for advice and then basically ignoring it. Sd9k - you are LUCKY that you haven't blown your engine up running that kind of setup, the ECU is obviously trying to save it and with no help from the S-AFC.

A Neo by no stretch of the imagination gives you a decent proper tune, and you shouldn't be running a bigger turbo like that with stock AFM/injectors/pump. I am pretty damn sure anything else you try at this stage will not work, a proper ECU and associated fuelling changes are the first things you should be considering. Really - you should have done that before changing the turbo if limited funds are an issue.

i'm not ignoring advice at all man

i just don't come on here that much

but as far as the car is concerned right now

the guy who was supposed to retune the car never returned my calls

so i said f**k it and returned the boost back down to stock

and all of the corrections on the safc back down to 0 and the car runs fine like it did

and as far as the turbo on the car, it came like that when i bought it so i didn't really have a choice in the matter

but thankfully i'm coming into some moeny here next week like 1k bucks

so i'm pretty hyped

going to buy 550cc injectors, GTR fuel pump, and a z32 maf

is an ecu reflash a good idea or should i just wait to get a PFC

i've heard nothing but good things about PFC so i'm assuming that's the standard esp for RB's

but i'm open to other options as well

thank you all for the support and advice :cool:

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...