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1> 85 KC Laser

2> 88 KE TX3 Turbo (fairly modified), twas in hot4's

had to rebuild the engine after too much boost, same happened with the next owner, and the owner before me. :D

3> 78 MK II 1.6 Escort (rear ended)

4> 77 MK II 2.0 Ghia Escort (blew engine)

car 3 and 4 merged together as one, the 1.6 manual come out of the 78 and replaced the 2.0 auto, fun. They were also my runabouts while I waited for the R32 to rock up.

5> 92 R32, see how long this sucker lasts :P

Shaun

1) 88 300ZX .... awesome car kick the skylines butt, had a knack for going sideways ..... targa for those sunny days .... not a dent in it ..... loving relationship til we started having fuel problems .... it was spending 5 week blocks in workshops who hadnt a phucking clue what was going on .....and neither did i at that time .... just was costing me way too much, parts too hard to find and because nobody could fix the fuel problem it wasnt very reliable.

2) My R33 Skyline .... not as fast as ZX .... not as unique ( i actually had a lot more guys checking me out when i drove the Zed haha) But a horny looking car and money will fix it being a slowboat :) mechanically not much goes wrong *touchwood*

Be a sad day when i parents get rid of the Z .... would like to keep them both but cant afford it :) 300zx is great car when you dont have to use it every day!

1978 VB Commydoor

1987 VL turbo (at least it had a nissan motor)

1996 R33 GTSt. Mint car, really miss it sometimes. Now owned by Matty B on these forums.

1995 R33 GTR Vspec.. Fairly well modded. currently has 320hp at all 4 and will be aiming for over 400 at the rears once the new AFM's go on...

1) Voltswagon Beetle Baja (Had big flared guards and huge mags, mild tweaked 1600cc engine, dad and i spent about a year restoring it, looked Mint!!)

2) 88' Nissan Pulsar Vector SSS (Still got)

3) 95' Skyline R33 GTST (Engine rebuild starting very very shortly :) )

Hate to see how you'd rice a falcon! :)

I can't talk tho..

1 86 excel - fully doofed.. sold the car for less than the stereo was worth!

2. 86 VL RB30 - doofed with little mods.. only bought it cause it had an RB motor in it.

3. 95 R33 GTST - doofed and modded. maybe a few cheapo rice features.. :)

Used to have an EB falcon but it was more a gift than a buy, that was my first car. Man what a piece of junk that was.

First car i bought was a 1980 C210 Skyline.

Second was the almighty 91' Supra TT

Finally the good old 87' Auster Xtt :)

U can tell im stilll young eh :)

All turbos u might note, thats why they call me boostzor :)

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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