Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

I'm about as far away as possible from you guys but know that Aussies have the RBs down more than anybody so here goes:

I'm looking to do something completely different from anything in my area here in the States. And a properly built RB30 for my S14 seems like the perfect choice for what I want in a car.

I want a completely built engine because I thrash my cars pretty hard at the track and on the street. I want very little lag and smooth power delivery with a lot of torque (possible twins?). I already have my engine management picked out (HKS F-Con VPro), and want to have four maps: one for pump gas(just daily driving around town), pump + nitrous(for the highway runs hehe), race gas(for the race track), and race gas + nitrous(for the drag strip)

I am trying to build a car that is a jack of all trades, so to speak. I am looking for a very smooth driveable 400-450whp on just pump for a manageable street power, and then I can turn up the wick when I get myself into a pissing contest haha.

So because of that I need an engine that is very versatile. I like all kinds of motorsports and would like to build a car that does all things pretty well and is a completely different approach than what most of the people around me have. Any help, advice, facts, people to talk to would be much appreciated. My main questions were for comp. ratio(8.5:1 sound good?), turbo size(s) (leaning towards a Precision prepped GT3082, GT35R, etc.), and who to build me this engine (since I can't be in as close contact as I would like). I also was interested in finding out how well RBs respond to nitrous if tuned for it. I was thinking somewhere around a 150 shot?

Thanks guys!

I have an idea...

T04Z or T51R Kai?

What's like one size down from these?

I was just looking at the GT3240 on HKS' website, but I'm not a huge fan of HKS' turbos. Do other people make fully custom versions of this assumed Garrett turbo? I'm a huge fan of Precision's turbos. Do they do one like this?

Edited by CosmoLTW

+1 for RIPS, go to GTROC forums from the UK - those guys have money to burn hence why every 2nd car has a RIPS motor in it :( Their work is absolutely amazing - Rob is an awesome guy to deal with too (given us heaps of info re RB30s for nothing)

I would suggest pro engines in queanbeyan. they really know their shit and have built plenty of excellent RBs over the years.

http://www.proengines.com.au/

Turbo wise the 3082 would be all you'd need to hit 400-450rwhp in US terms :P

Gas/fuel obviously more depending on where/how etc.

The GT35 will give you much more room for playing on PULP, here in AUS terms you can get 500rwhp from a GT35 without much trouble.

Then more on fuel/gas etc... so gives you an idea of where both sit.

Since you're in the US, why not go for Turbonetics items? Cheap as chips straight from the US.

Just heard of a lot of guys having reliability problems with them. Don't know a single person that has had one last a year here anyway. I like the GTK series though so I don't know. Thanks a lot for your help guys. I was leaning towards RIPS, now it's just pretty much definite. I'll keep you guys updated as the project starts to get rolling... :P

One other thing, will they already do the oil return line at the back of the head and things like that? That's mainly what I am concerned about. I have an RB25DET right now and know a very little about them so far.

I am just very meticulous about the car being built as bulletproof as possible with every trick utilized because I know how much I ask of my cars.

What other little weak areas should I be aware of when taking on an RB30/26? If this has been covered a thousand times I am sorry.

  • 2 years later...

Hey guys!

I'm about as far away as possible from you guys but know that Aussies have the RBs down more than anybody so here goes:

I'm looking to do something completely different from anything in my area here in the States. And a properly built RB30 for my S14 seems like the perfect choice for what I want in a car.

I want a completely built engine because I thrash my cars pretty hard at the track and on the street. I want very little lag and smooth power delivery with a lot of torque (possible twins?). I already have my engine management picked out (HKS F-Con VPro), and want to have four maps: one for pump gas(just daily driving around town), pump + nitrous(for the highway runs hehe), race gas(for the race track), and race gas + nitrous(for the drag strip)

I am trying to build a car that is a jack of all trades, so to speak. I am looking for a very smooth driveable 400-450whp on just pump for a manageable street power, and then I can turn up the wick when I get myself into a pissing contest haha.

So because of that I need an engine that is very versatile. I like all kinds of motorsports and would like to build a car that does all things pretty well and is a completely different approach than what most of the people around me have. Any help, advice, facts, people to talk to would be much appreciated. My main questions were for comp. ratio(8.5:1 sound good?), turbo size(s) (leaning towards a Precision prepped GT3082, GT35R, etc.), and who to build me this engine (since I can't be in as close contact as I would like). I also was interested in finding out how well RBs respond to nitrous if tuned for it. I was thinking somewhere around a 150 shot?

Thanks guys!

Call me mate or email me 0435287862 or [email protected]. $8000 without manual trans or $9500 with trans. Motor built for 350-400kw at the wheels. $12000 spent on long motor alone, $2300 spent on manual trans. NOS ready and fully tricked.....

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The values for HID colour are also defined ~ see https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2006L02732/latest/text  ~ goto section 3.9 onwards ....
    • So, if the headlights' cutoff behaviour (angles, heights, etc) are not as per 6.2.6.1.1 without automatic levelling, then you have to have to have automatic** levelling. Also, if the headlight does not have the required markings, then neither automatic nor manual adjusters are going to be acceptable. That's because the base headlight itself does not meet the minimum requirement (which is the marking). ** with the option of manual levelling, if the headlight otherwise meets the same requirements as for the automatic case AND can be set to the "base" alignment at the headlight itself. So that's an additional requirement for the manual case. So, provided that the marking is on the headlight and there is a local manual adjustment back to "base" on the headlight, then yes, you could argue that they are code compliant. But if you are missing any single one of these things, then they are not. And unlike certain other standards that I work with, there does not seem to be scope to prepare a "fitness for purpose" report. Well, I guess there actually is. You might engage an automotive engineer to write a report stating that the lights meet the performance requirements of the standard even if they are missing, for example, the markings.  
    • Vertical orientation   6.2.6.1.1. The initial downward inclination of the cut off of the dipped-beam to be set in the unladen vehicle state with one person in the driver's seat shall be specified within an accuracy of 0.1 per cent by the manufacturer and indicated in a clearly legible and indelible manner on each vehicle close to either headlamp or the manufacturer's plate by the symbol shown in Annex 7.   The value of this indicated downward inclination shall be defined in accordance with paragraph 6.2.6.1.2.   6.2.6.1.2. Depending on the mounting height in metres (h) of the lower edge of the apparent surface in the direction of the reference axis of the dipped beam headlamp, measured on the unladen vehicles, the vertical inclination of the cut off of the dipped- beam shall, under all the static conditions of Annex 5, remain between the following limits and the initial aiming shall have the following values:   h < 0.8   Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent   0.8 < h < 1.0   Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent   Or, at the discretion of the manufacturer,   Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent   The application for the vehicle type approval shall, in this case, contain information as to which of the two alternatives is to be used.   h > 1.0   Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent   The above limits and the initial aiming values are summarized in the diagram below.   For category N3G (off-road) vehicles where the headlamps exceed a height of 1,200 mm, the limits for the vertical inclination of the cut-off shall be between: -1.5 per cent and -3.5 per cent.   The initial aim shall be set between: -2 per cent and -2.5 per cent.
×
×
  • Create New...