Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not driving the car much on the street anymore- suspension is too harsh, exhaust too loud etc. for it to be very comfortable to drive. Just going to use it for the odd trackday, so not concerned about drivability anymore. If I was, I wouldn't remove the 2530 :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/4/#findComment-433868
Share on other sites

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok, i might be opening up a can of beans that'll spill into what should be another thread but........ what would be cheaper, if you wanted to have a weekend car, and a track day car..... a worked gts-t, or a worked gt-r, both having say...... 600hp at the engine? or would there be too many variables involved? just running on my train of thought here

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/4/#findComment-434569
Share on other sites

Hah now that question deserves a long, opinionated answer...

Depends on size of budget (is $5,000 cheap or is $30,000 cheap?), driving style, access to facilities or contacts, maintenance budget etc. etc. You could write a book on it (I'm sure someone has).

Bottom line (in my humble opinion, and stated a million times in other posts)..

* GT-R's cost more initially, increasing performance costs less, marginally higher upkeep

and the inverse for GTS-Ts. Get a 180sx - cheap to buy, cheap to improve performance, cheap to maintain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/4/#findComment-434575
Share on other sites

Kinda got sidetracked - as for some dyno figures...

Rick Shaw has a 2540 on his personal car (it's up for sale btw, as you would expect it's immaculate and everything has been rebuilt) and has dyno'd ~230kw at his shop. That was at 1 bar boost - his standard fuel system limited this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/4/#findComment-434672
Share on other sites

Ezekrael

as far as clutch choice goes, a search should reveal all the info you need.

for around 900 fitted got me my extreme single plate ceramic button clutch with sprung centre. many members are using this clutch and its very usable. I think its good for 450hp, which means it should be fine unless you upgrade your turbo again and shoot for over 250rwkw.. then again whatsisname has over 250rwkw and that was his clutch choice too.

evo- fuel pumps are INTERNAL on 33's and yes can still hear buzzing. No std turbo not good for 230rwkw.

for HKS relevance heres my GT2530. i am assured by the supplier (a friend of a friend, who is the friend of the guy who bought the turbo new in japan!) that this turbo has done less than 2000km's in japan, cost me 1800bucks. Took it to ATS for inspection and they confirmed its perfect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/4/#findComment-434710
Share on other sites

Originally posted by SLY33

evo- fuel pumps are INTERNAL on 33's and yes can still hear buzzing.  No std turbo not good for 230rwkw.

SLY 33, how loud is your 044?

- mine I can only just hear it with the ignition on but engine switched off. I have a nismo exhaust with dual muffler so it just purrs at idle, but I cant hear the pump at all.

I wouldnt be in a hurry with the extreme clutch - mine was good for about 6 months then it started dying. I know a couple of other guys who had problems running just over 300rwhp.

I ended upgrading to a os giken twin, wish I had gone that way in the first place.

Nice score on the turbo by the way, you'd have to be happy:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/4/#findComment-434911
Share on other sites

the buzings not that loud but when the exh isnt booming i can hear it. During summer when it gets warm the buzz gets quite loud.

Apparently the extreme clutch doesnt like to be slipped, when i got mine i was told that if i tried to slip it each take off it wouldnt last long, and to just let it out and it would be fine. ive had mine about 6 months, lots and lots of launches, no troubles yet...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/4/#findComment-435061
Share on other sites

Steve: The one pictured is a 52T, but I also have a 56T trim. Actually, the one pictured is damaged (turbine wheel) but I hope to get it repaired soon, if it can be repaired. The 56T I used on my EVO4...how can you tell if it's the current or older model???

What's the difference with your turbo? Do you have a pic?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2381-hks-turbo/page/4/#findComment-435573
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...