Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, and welcome to my first thread

Story so far: Had my R33 GTS now for about 18 months, and she is finally paid off. Its time for some fun.

Im not aiming at at top range show/sports car here, or Id be driving a GTR, but I would like the full potential of my car to shine when my right foot goes dancing.

All ive done so far is throw on some ROH 17x8" Blades and some nice 225/235 shoes.

So far the shopping list is:

Coby extractors as from the group buy, cept Im paying full price from partsco, cos I had no money then ~ $370 shipped

hi flow cat ~ $310

2.5" custom exhaust & muffler from quickfit, ~ $300

whiteline front swaybar ~ $190

king springs f&r ~ $600 fitted

K&N panel filter - $? still debating the CAI vs panel on this

SAFC-II - ~ $630 - unless anyone can recomend a good ECU for under $1k

Also a stereo, headlight upgrades, and tinting (all asthetic)

So my questions are, what am I missing (dont say turbo) ? Or what should I bother / not bother doing. From what Ive read/heard/seen anything over this doesnt seem to be a great $$/power gain, so Im asking you all.

Thanks on your thoughts!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23942-project-darkline-underway/
Share on other sites

this is just about everything ive done except for the kings springs as mine was already slightly lowerd when i bought it and the sway bar, though i am disapointed and my car still isnt that quick, also 600 bucks for springs fitted is way to much, u shouldnt pay more then around 400 supplied and fited. just ask if u want more info on my car.

$600 was the cheapest I could find the springs over here, to buy them myself I think i was still looking at around $350.

Also included fitting of the sway bar, might even include the cost, Ill have to check.

I know Im not going to end up with a beast of a car, the maths just doesnt allow it.

Im still toying with putting in a nitros system, but considering i spend 350 out of 450km a week in peak hour, there's hardly a point. If there wasnt so much crud involved in selling my car and buying another I'd do that, but Id be back where I started, just with a turbo and maybe some mods and maybe a thrashed car

So what is it that you aren't impressed with, topend or overall speed or quickness?

Audio is all cool, carried over from my last car, and knocked up a box for the sub in the boot so it didnt take up much space.

Im still not sure I need all the extra suspension options for how I drive, and also for $$ spent. I have driven a couple of highly modded skylines with added suspension and didnt really feel too different. Deffinately not $2k difference.

Whats involved in matching springs/shocks? im guessing something like the whiteline sports pack?

my car definately goes alot better with the mods, they made a huge difference its just not hugely quick, my best pass at willobank first time out was a 15.8 with no subs or spare tyre in the boot. My car has been slightly lowered with standard shocks and handles great, though if i was to do nething to the suspension it would be sway bars but not much else. i also looked at nos but my dad had a fit with it voiding insurance and all so that was out of the question, im currently researching putting a VH45DE bent 8 in my car which by the time its in the car will have about 250kw at the crank which shouldn't cost more then around 5g's including drivetrain, but no brake upgrade.

Ahhh, see hugely quick isnt what im looking for. Im trying not to let that bug bite me, or else im not going to stop until i end up with a GTR and two morgtages.

I knew this car was never going to be that, Im just wanting to get a good balance of speed and expence.

My Car only cost $14k, so wheels and mods im still under $19k once this is done. Next car maybe

Wells as long as thats all ur after ull have a great, yes i want my car to be faster and yes i am gonna do something about it in the way of a new engine but please dont get me wrong im not complaining, i still have a ball in my car, it goes awesome for what it is, and drifts quite nicely too i might add, and this is with about 100kg extra of stereo gear, basically they are all the bolt on mods u can do to the engine without getting into porting and cams and the like and the gains versus dollars for those mods arent worth it in the end.

Yeah as slip said, i really toasted my brakes good on the weekend, at morgan park raceway, i got my rotors so hot they changed colour, boiled the fluid and had heat cracks in the front pads, though if i wasnt worried about the stud pattern i would look at maybe slotted and cross-drilled rotors. But the brakes are fine for the ocasional mountain fang as such.

Im not a heavy braker, and havent had any problems stopping. I've only managed to lock up once, and that was when i first had the car.

Im not changing the wheels, they're less than a year old

So its either new rotors - where and how much?

or Master cylinder upgrade?

If at all. I might see how much power i have to stop before making those changes.

VH45DE, something different, heaps of tuning potential, cheaper than a turbo set up in the short term, my whole family owns V8's and its hard to fit in haha, oh and the torque the TORQUE!! it would be the best drift setup i reckon. and great for track as well with no lag from big turbo's.

VH45DE hey john!? awesome :) what happened to the RB30DET idea? skyline with a v8 will definitely be unique. as you say all the torque should make for a good drifter, but what about the extra weight up front? might understeer a fair bit... anyway good luck with the conversion :D

cheers

greg

50kg is shit all...this v8 must be have an alloy block? i guess the rb25 with cast iron block would weigh a fair bit.

Darker, sorry to hijack your thread. in reply to your first post, that all sounds great, let us know how you go. the only thing is about that cat - get it from BATMBL on these forums (see his thread in the for sale section). get a 3" cat from him and put that in. he gets them cost price of something, so they work out a lot cheaper. i payed $250 for a hiflow 2.5" cat and i could have got a hi-flow 3" from him for $180.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...