Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All, and welcome to my first thread

Story so far: Had my R33 GTS now for about 18 months, and she is finally paid off. Its time for some fun.

Im not aiming at at top range show/sports car here, or Id be driving a GTR, but I would like the full potential of my car to shine when my right foot goes dancing.

All ive done so far is throw on some ROH 17x8" Blades and some nice 225/235 shoes.

So far the shopping list is:

Coby extractors as from the group buy, cept Im paying full price from partsco, cos I had no money then ~ $370 shipped

hi flow cat ~ $310

2.5" custom exhaust & muffler from quickfit, ~ $300

whiteline front swaybar ~ $190

king springs f&r ~ $600 fitted

K&N panel filter - $? still debating the CAI vs panel on this

SAFC-II - ~ $630 - unless anyone can recomend a good ECU for under $1k

Also a stereo, headlight upgrades, and tinting (all asthetic)

So my questions are, what am I missing (dont say turbo) ? Or what should I bother / not bother doing. From what Ive read/heard/seen anything over this doesnt seem to be a great $$/power gain, so Im asking you all.

Thanks on your thoughts!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23942-project-darkline-underway/
Share on other sites

this is just about everything ive done except for the kings springs as mine was already slightly lowerd when i bought it and the sway bar, though i am disapointed and my car still isnt that quick, also 600 bucks for springs fitted is way to much, u shouldnt pay more then around 400 supplied and fited. just ask if u want more info on my car.

$600 was the cheapest I could find the springs over here, to buy them myself I think i was still looking at around $350.

Also included fitting of the sway bar, might even include the cost, Ill have to check.

I know Im not going to end up with a beast of a car, the maths just doesnt allow it.

Im still toying with putting in a nitros system, but considering i spend 350 out of 450km a week in peak hour, there's hardly a point. If there wasnt so much crud involved in selling my car and buying another I'd do that, but Id be back where I started, just with a turbo and maybe some mods and maybe a thrashed car

So what is it that you aren't impressed with, topend or overall speed or quickness?

Audio is all cool, carried over from my last car, and knocked up a box for the sub in the boot so it didnt take up much space.

Im still not sure I need all the extra suspension options for how I drive, and also for $$ spent. I have driven a couple of highly modded skylines with added suspension and didnt really feel too different. Deffinately not $2k difference.

Whats involved in matching springs/shocks? im guessing something like the whiteline sports pack?

my car definately goes alot better with the mods, they made a huge difference its just not hugely quick, my best pass at willobank first time out was a 15.8 with no subs or spare tyre in the boot. My car has been slightly lowered with standard shocks and handles great, though if i was to do nething to the suspension it would be sway bars but not much else. i also looked at nos but my dad had a fit with it voiding insurance and all so that was out of the question, im currently researching putting a VH45DE bent 8 in my car which by the time its in the car will have about 250kw at the crank which shouldn't cost more then around 5g's including drivetrain, but no brake upgrade.

Ahhh, see hugely quick isnt what im looking for. Im trying not to let that bug bite me, or else im not going to stop until i end up with a GTR and two morgtages.

I knew this car was never going to be that, Im just wanting to get a good balance of speed and expence.

My Car only cost $14k, so wheels and mods im still under $19k once this is done. Next car maybe

Wells as long as thats all ur after ull have a great, yes i want my car to be faster and yes i am gonna do something about it in the way of a new engine but please dont get me wrong im not complaining, i still have a ball in my car, it goes awesome for what it is, and drifts quite nicely too i might add, and this is with about 100kg extra of stereo gear, basically they are all the bolt on mods u can do to the engine without getting into porting and cams and the like and the gains versus dollars for those mods arent worth it in the end.

Yeah as slip said, i really toasted my brakes good on the weekend, at morgan park raceway, i got my rotors so hot they changed colour, boiled the fluid and had heat cracks in the front pads, though if i wasnt worried about the stud pattern i would look at maybe slotted and cross-drilled rotors. But the brakes are fine for the ocasional mountain fang as such.

Im not a heavy braker, and havent had any problems stopping. I've only managed to lock up once, and that was when i first had the car.

Im not changing the wheels, they're less than a year old

So its either new rotors - where and how much?

or Master cylinder upgrade?

If at all. I might see how much power i have to stop before making those changes.

VH45DE, something different, heaps of tuning potential, cheaper than a turbo set up in the short term, my whole family owns V8's and its hard to fit in haha, oh and the torque the TORQUE!! it would be the best drift setup i reckon. and great for track as well with no lag from big turbo's.

VH45DE hey john!? awesome :) what happened to the RB30DET idea? skyline with a v8 will definitely be unique. as you say all the torque should make for a good drifter, but what about the extra weight up front? might understeer a fair bit... anyway good luck with the conversion :D

cheers

greg

50kg is shit all...this v8 must be have an alloy block? i guess the rb25 with cast iron block would weigh a fair bit.

Darker, sorry to hijack your thread. in reply to your first post, that all sounds great, let us know how you go. the only thing is about that cat - get it from BATMBL on these forums (see his thread in the for sale section). get a 3" cat from him and put that in. he gets them cost price of something, so they work out a lot cheaper. i payed $250 for a hiflow 2.5" cat and i could have got a hi-flow 3" from him for $180.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...