Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ing if i well after pulling my battery out for a charge i notices its only 370 CCA battery,

it normally takes 3/4 seconds to start, i am wondering if i need a bigger battery

x0x0x

Is that 3/4's of a second to start or 3 - 4 seconds to start?

I run an 'AllRounder' from Battery World in Fyshwick. Cheaper and has more punch than the typical Yellow Tops. It takes around 1/2 a second to 3/4 of a second to crank the engine over. The CCA on it I think is around 600CCA with a higher AH rating than the yellow tops. AllRounder Battery

Is that 3/4's of a second to start or 3 - 4 seconds to start?

I run an 'AllRounder' from Battery World in Fyshwick. Cheaper and has more punch than the typical Yellow Tops. It takes around 1/2 a second to 3/4 of a second to crank the engine over. The CCA on it I think is around 600CCA with a higher AH rating than the yellow tops. AllRounder Battery

cheers mate,

i ment 3 to 4 seconds,

I see the slightly longer start as a good thing. It gives the engine a little extra time to build oil pressure before being under full load... not a biggy for a standard engine, but it all helps.

Whatever Optima Yellowtop is. It's a deep cycle battery, meaning the charge level can drop to pretty darn low levels (ie won't crank at all) and still be recharged to normal :D Might come in handy Alex!

Whatever Optima Yellowtop is. It's a deep cycle battery, meaning the charge level can drop to pretty darn low levels (ie won't crank at all) and still be recharged to normal ;) Might come in handy Alex!

Same goes for the AllRounder I posted about Ben.

I had the Yellow Top in the Subie.. Excellent battery, but not for the price.. I got the AllRounder for half the price and it has a longer deep cycle charge.

(P.S - I just realised I said Battery World, but it is suppose to be "The Battery Factory")

Edited by sfrizza

I had a 440cca battery and it took maybe 2 seconds to start the motor, once that battery started to die (Scott - remember us roll starting my car in Kingston on Anzac day ;)) I chucked in a Supercharger brand 660cca battery. The fellow at battery world said it's the same cold cranking amps as you get in a Landcruiser.

One tap of the key and she fires first time every time, it's a good feeling lol :)

I can't even tell what mine is.... It's blue with yellow bits on top. It died one day and the NRMA told me it was f*ked and I really had to get to work so the NRMA dude in the battery van came along and changed it for me.

*shrugs* it works ;)

I had a 440cca battery and it took maybe 2 seconds to start the motor, once that battery started to die (Scott - remember us roll starting my car in Kingston on Anzac day :)) I chucked in a Supercharger brand 660cca battery. The fellow at battery world said it's the same cold cranking amps as you get in a Landcruiser.

One tap of the key and she fires first time every time, it's a good feeling lol :)

Yes i do.

Since running a oil cooler, i am paranoid about building pressure, so ignore me. :P

660cca is uber, will do the job fo shiz

yeh but i have that on my Landcruiser just to power accessories and a winch, must be some serious stereo to need as much battery power as that. :D

Mostly hidden. Some nice quality speakers in the rear and front doors with some Xcellent tweaters.

Work done by AudioTech Tuggers.

Put them in the GTS-T and then moved em into the GTR.

Edited by Sinista32
holy crap what size subs are they? my 12 doesn't take up anywhere near that much space

Could be the angle of the Photo's and the fibreglass sub enclosures. I cant fit much in the boot :P

2 x 12.5" Bostons = Heaps of DOOF DOOF (bass).

I dont turn it up till on the open road or at SAU Christmas party's at the Cotter. Sometimes it annoys me to hear it from cars round populated areas like the malls or local shops (fully sic mate!). I just think what a wank. A nice Skyline will get noticed anyway.

Most of the sound is restricted to the inside due to soundproofing from firewall to boot.

i went with a big 600cca cheap bosch and it works great

but 1100cca? thats nuts. what do you need that for? starting on a cold morning while doing a bit of arc welding at the same time?

hehehe I don't do things by halves :P

Errr - 2 Battery's. 1 to crank and the other to keep the stereo cranked.

I used to do that, to set it up right (and legally) there's a lot of shit involved.

Mostly hidden. Some nice quality speakers in the rear and front doors with some Xcellent tweaters.

Work done by AudioTech Tuggers.

Put them in the GTS-T and then moved em into the GTR.

Ooooh nice...

This is why I need the power :( and you can see that even though they call them a 'twelve inch sub' they obviously don't fit in a 12 inch hole :)

img001080349234tq7.jpg

picture2390281841qg6.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...