Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:) hey guys,

just thought would be a good idea to make a thread in which u tell everyone ur new mods?

like new sound systems, exhausts, rims, etc.... just to help each other out in getting the best prices?

everyone likes a good bargain so maybe this could be a really good thing.

so i guess i'll start!

i got 4 tyres 235/40zr18's with 80% tread from injektd belconnen for $250

then jax quickfit tyres tuggeranong fitted all four and gave me an extra 235/40zr18 and all new wheel nuts for $100

hope this helps some people out lets get this cranking!!

peace.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240635-modification-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Oh and my latest mod... hmm been a while but my tein suspension from fulcrum was about 2300 with installation and tuning, not a terrible deal but probs cheaper going through Slide for the parts then paying Fulcrum for the labor.

My next purchase is a replacement heavy duty clutch, can get them for 380ish from Slide.

Then i want a C's short Shifter, they go for about 300ish i think.

Then i want dba 4000 slotted rotors.

Then i want... Ah the list will never end

temp sensors from autobarn you can use ford something ones, cant recall with type of ford, you will also have to change the plug to make it fit. But much much cheaper

I may have an old one lying around, will have a look when I get time, I may have also given it away already though

Edited by race_snooze
haven't had any issues with mine and i've done my fare share of trackdays....

And I hope you never will, touch wood. There's just been so many occurances on track cars of them cracking , and not just people bitching, for me to not warn others. DBA themselves do not recomend them to be used for track cars.

Bilstein suspension kit with swaybars etc from Elite QLD for $1920 (selling my Teins). Basically a Sydney Kid kit but delivered inside a week, and with progressive king springs instead of whitelines.

haha nice.

any1 know...would it be better to source a lsd locally or go over the net? im looking at getting a 1.5 way kaaz or nismo and wondering if net would be cheaper...or is there anywhere local that sells them at a good price.????

i'd go jsut jap but dont know if they have 1.5 way as not on their site.

Buy on the net Gus, you wont find a better price locally.

By the way, you will be much happier with a Nismo 1.5 Lsd over a Kaaz, they're much more street friendly and are much smoother to drive... Its worth spending the extra cash.

:wacko:

would you recommend getting the adjust. nismo one or just the normal.

Are you planning on racing?

-- If you are then go for the adjustable one.

-- If not, the standard one will be fine for the street.

You have to remember that Mechanical LSD's require a lot more maintenance than regular diffs, so the life of your new Nismo LSD depends heavily on how well you treat it.

Nismo 1.5's are easy to live with, just a bit of chatter around town, but not a lot. Can't comment on the Kaaz.

One thing I love is the way it hooks up and drives when you accelerate. None of this steering correction etc, it drives straight cos both wheels are doing the same amount of effort. Even exiting a roundabout [once your used to it] it tracks brilliantly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...