Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch For 3-350rwk In R33 Gtr. Upgrade Time

R33GOD
 Share

Recommended Posts

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

Hold on a sec, you got the clutch when? Have you bedded it in? (approx 1000km/s)

Ie. ride it in a bit for the first 1000km before you start launching it....

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

Also, who installed the clutch? I'd be making some calls on Monday, sorry to hear it's died so soon after you bought it, post some updates once you find out what happened...

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Bit early to be launching/thrashing the clutch Anthony, as Gareth has stated you are supposed to bed them in.

A number of things could have caused this fault:

- Wear and tear on gear box

- Excessive thrashing

- Bad clutch

- Poor installation

- etc.

Do not assume it's the installation that is always at fault as more times than not, it's not. Ring the mechanic on Monday and explain, in a calm manner, what has happened and how soon they could look at it.

  • 9 months later...
On Edge Veteran

On Edge

Posted
Posted
Nismo twin plate coppermix. I have the competition model which is rated a little higher with the Nismo Slave cylinder. I will NEVER change it for something else. It's behind a 400 rwkw 2.8 litre. Cant recommend it highly enough.

+1 Piggaz. If you have the money, this really is the clutch that most 300rwkw+ owners should have under their left foot.. Absolutely fantastic it is...

GT-R32 Grand Master

GT-R32

Posted
Posted

I had my clutch installed yesterday (ORC700) bought/imported brand new and installed at a local workshop who said they have done at least 6 of the exact clutch with no problems. However mine is the exception. When I turned up they didn't know I was there and I heard them say: "One of the nicest R32 GTRs I've driven very tight, the clutch still isn't right though. Just give it back to the customer." :D Bloke turns around and says: "this is the customer". "Oh is this your car? Now I want you to try it for a week..." Me: "Um, I think I'll take it back when it's working properly thanks".

It won't go into gear on idle properly, extremely hard and has to be jammed in. Now they are going to pull the box out again, as they said they have checked all adjustment items leaving only the throw out bearing as the issue - which ironically as I turned up the person who installed it complained of how difficult the job was to do in this regard - or as he said: "if our work ends up being fine and it's the clutch itself, then we'll talk". WTF is that supposed to mean? It's brand new! Anyone know how the clutch itself could cause this? Sounds potentially like a throw out alignment issue to me...?

Needed to vent!

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

709D? maybe they haven't used the correct throwout bearing and carrier.. I gave the correct ones to my mechanical workshop when they went to fit my clutch, bit of a discussion regarding wether what I had selected was right, they went for a different one.. had to go back to what I selected.

Somewhere I have my copy of the orc manual with my handwritten notes on it if you want to check the part numbers. maybe not on this comp cos I'm in the boonies, but might have access to it.

GT-R32 Grand Master

GT-R32

Posted
Posted
709D? maybe they haven't used the correct throwout bearing and carrier.. I gave the correct ones to my mechanical workshop when they went to fit my clutch, bit of a discussion regarding wether what I had selected was right, they went for a different one.. had to go back to what I selected.

Somewhere I have my copy of the orc manual with my handwritten notes on it if you want to check the part numbers. maybe not on this comp cos I'm in the boonies, but might have access to it.

Yeah it's the 709D. That could also be the case. Either that or it isn't aligned properly...? I certainly won't be paying if it's not right and they blame the brand new clutch (bloke on the phone yesterday was hinting toward that). They said they have done several of these exact clutches before, the bloke who is there being the reason I took it there, who has a history of GTRs, said that there shouldn't be any issues but someone who did their apprenticeship at a Toyota dealership was the one working on it and complaining. I would be grateful if you can give me the part number as the person installing it complained it was more difficult than others they had done.

33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
Posted

Recently upgraded to a Jim Berry 'Carbon Special' I am rather happy with the results, stock car atm tho :P For the money i had spent for the JB vs the same money on an off the shelf after market item i have got a far superior clutch that in theory should well outlast the off the shelf item. Oh, i went from a twin coppermix to a single :D

If you ever feel the need to talk random car 'Stuff' call Jim Berry and have a coffee handy, he likes to talk and ask ALOT of questions about what you want, he wants to make sure you are getting what you need and likes to explain how the rotational axis of the earth has a small efffect on the random engagement of the clutch at X amount of rpm lol

Good luck with the clutch endeavours :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...