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R34 Died On Me Last Night! Help!

Dany

By Dany,
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Dany Explorer

Dany

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, got a problem I hope you could help me out with.

I was driving last night on the highway doing about 70km/h when my car just shut off and everything went dead except the headlights, even the indicators weren't working. I managed to pull up on the gutter and tried to start it but couldn't. There was crank but it wouldn't start, sort of like the battery was dead but I bought a new one couple of months back so that wouldn't be the problem. I still checked the plugs and they were fine. After leaving the car for about 10mins I tried to start it and it worked as usually so I'm wondering what would've caused this.

I got my alternator fixed a few weeks back which cost me $570, also got Splitfire coil packs and new spark plugs.

Anyone have any idea what might be the problem?

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76GTR Enthusiast

76GTR

Posted
Posted

Hi, I would go back to basics and check battery terminals, battery cables and earth terminals and cables for looseness. I would load test the battery and check the charge rate from the alternator. Also i would be checking the ignition switch it sounds like the ignition switch could be open circuiting.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted
Hi, I would go back to basics and check battery terminals, battery cables and earth terminals and cables for looseness. I would load test the battery and check the charge rate from the alternator. Also i would be checking the ignition switch it sounds like the ignition switch could be open circuiting.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

cant be battery, head lights stayed on, but the ignition sounds right, but does the engine turn off if you are driving and take out the key????

i never tried but i thought the engine kept running aslong as the revs were up??? correct me if i'm wrong, just ive seen dirt bikes run with keys falling off them wandering if its the same with lines

d-- Enthusiast

d--

Posted
Posted

76gtr, i have a similar problem, my car stalls intermittently when im slowing down at intersections etc, and i recently had a turbo timer installed when i got an alarm installed, would this be a similar case? battery terminals have been checked/cleaned out etc. but i know the key shaft is a bit loose, i just find it strange that it only happens when i'm coming down through the gears and the cars at low revs.

The car IS idling below 1000, but it's been doing that for a while (just needs a service)

new coil packs and sparkplugs replaced 3000km's ago (started doing it ~700km ago

S1 R33 GTS-T

Dany Explorer

Dany

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi, I would go back to basics and check battery terminals, battery cables and earth terminals and cables for looseness. I would load test the battery and check the charge rate from the alternator. Also i would be checking the ignition switch it sounds like the ignition switch could be open circuiting.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

I checked the battery terminals and cables they seem fine. I'm not sure how to check the charge rate from the alternator because I'm not really a mechanic guy lol. How would I check the ignition switch? Thanks for your help!

Hi, just had another thought, is the vehicle equiped with a turbo timer.

Regards

76GTR

No turbo timer, it's RB25DE.

WTF why would you pay $570 to repair an alternator when u can get a second hand one for like a fifth of the price

I took the car to the mechanic in Dandy to fix the alternator and I didn't ask them for a price because I thought it won't be more then $200-$250 to take it out and repair it. When they rang me and said it's $570 I was thinking WTF what a rip-off.

I went to another mechanic yesterday and they said it could be a hunder different things and they won't know what is it until they drive the car and the incident actually occurs.

One of my parents friends had the same problem with his car so I'll ask him how he fixed it. It seems the problem occurs when I drive the car for longer then 15-20mins, as if something heats up and I can't start the car until it cools down?

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted
76gtr, i have a similar problem, my car stalls intermittently when im slowing down at intersections etc, and i recently had a turbo timer installed when i got an alarm installed, would this be a similar case? battery terminals have been checked/cleaned out etc. but i know the key shaft is a bit loose, i just find it strange that it only happens when i'm coming down through the gears and the cars at low revs.

The car IS idling below 1000, but it's been doing that for a while (just needs a service)

new coil packs and sparkplugs replaced 3000km's ago (started doing it ~700km ago

S1 R33 GTS-T

nothing to do with alarm or tt,

your car should be idleing between 650-750 for a standard or lightly modified r33, 1000 is abit high anyway.... clean your afm, clean throttle body, change spark plugs, check for hose leaks and change your 02 sensor....

76GTR Enthusiast

76GTR

Posted
Posted

Dany, There is two sides to the ignition switch the mechanical side ( the barrel where the key goes in ) and the electrical side ( at the back of barrel ). I would remove the ignition surround trim and check the wires at the back of the ignition barrel also while the car is running is to do a riggle test on the wires ( riggle the wires ) from the ignition. The mechanic is right it could be a hundred diffrent things, it does take some time to go through and check the circuit. The simple way to check the charge rate of the alternator is to use a multimeter positive lead to positive of the battery terminal and negative lead to a good earth point. Have the engine running , set the multimeter to direct voltage (dc) a good charge rate should be between 13.80v - 14.20v.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

Dany Explorer

Dany

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Dany, There is two sides to the ignition switch the mechanical side ( the barrel where the key goes in ) and the electrical side ( at the back of barrel ). I would remove the ignition surround trim and check the wires at the back of the ignition barrel also while the car is running is to do a riggle test on the wires ( riggle the wires ) from the ignition. The mechanic is right it could be a hundred diffrent things, it does take some time to go through and check the circuit. The simple way to check the charge rate of the alternator is to use a multimeter positive lead to positive of the battery terminal and negative lead to a good earth point. Have the engine running , set the multimeter to direct voltage (dc) a good charge rate should be between 13.80v - 14.20v.

Hope i have been of assistance

76GTR

I've got a voltage meter in the car I just checked it's on 13.9v. I'll check the wires at the ignition switch tomorrow since it's dark now and let you know how it went. Thanks for your help again. I appreciate it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Dany Explorer

Dany

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update.

I've changed the ignition switch with a new one but the car died again a few days later and would not start again. I called an electrician guy I know and it turns out that at the back of the immobilizer circuit board one of the solder has melted/burned off. That's what the problem was.

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