Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yo, i was doing a 180 degree handbrake to spin my car (just bord muckin around) n then my car completely shut off.. i had to put it in drive and then i had to take the key and restart the engine to get it working again, why does that happen o_O

lol probably fuel surge... maybe ur handbrakey was too much for the amount of fuel u had in the tank and the pump ran dry which would cause the engine to obviously stop

my old car use to do that as well and also when doing donuts :P

when i was at driver dynamics defensive driving. We were given a chance to spin our car 180degree's on wet vinyl.

My car shut off also, clutch was all the way in too.

Ive heard from others that this happens to them too.

I dont think its fuel pump mounting/life related, its something else.

when i was at driver dynamics defensive driving. We were given a chance to spin our car 180degree's on wet vinyl.

My car shut off also, clutch was all the way in too.

Ive heard from others that this happens to them too.

I dont think its fuel pump mounting/life related, its something else.

Mine did it too, turned out it was the fuel pump :D

Hence i said that. Would do it even with 1/2 tank as it wasnt sitting right

Do jap cars have rollover protection which shuts off the fuel pump? I've heard of this in some cars... It could very well be the car think its rolling due to the massive change in g forces?

^^^^^

Yo, i was doing a 180 degree handbrake to spin my car (just bord muckin around) n then my car completely shut off.. i had to put it in drive and then i had to take the key and restart the engine to get it working again, why does that happen o_O

It's a fat-o-matic

i used to get this alot when i started drifting.. use the handbrake to get it to 90* then dump the clutch and gun it and hopefully it will hook up and spin you the rest of the way, if not, it will send you straight off the road.

i think the cars just go from lots of fuel, to no fuel.. think about it... your cruising at maybe 3-4000 rpm in 3rd, you knock it in to second in the revs rise, then you hit the handbrake and put the clutch in, which unless you keep the revs up, will drop it straight back down to idle very quickly... how many time in normal driving would you drive at 5-6000 rpm in second, and then all of a sudden do a foot shuffle and let the revs drop back to idle... our cars stall soo easily even slowly pulling up to the lights... let alone swinging it around 180*

cheers

Linton

never managed that one...

but definately dont think its to do with the above post... if that were the case it would also happen on a slow gear change.

not to mention clutching in after a burnout...

Are you guys being serious? automatic, which is like doing a handbrakey in a manual but not putting the clutch in.... you are stopping the driveline from spinning, which slows (stops) the engine from turning over, hence the stalling.... to those in a manual with same issue but you are pushing the cluch in, ignore this post.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...