Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just fished some instructions on how to swap your guage cluster for a gtr one.

I havent done this yet so i cant confirm it works when i have finished it i will post pics but that might not be for a while because i want to take the dash out when i do it to run the wires for my MFD aswell but cant afford to be without my car for now.

I worked it out using the service manuals.

It involves pulling every wire pin out of its connector and rearanging them, also making some wires shorter and some longer.

I wrote the instructions refering to my R34 GT-4 which does not have HICAS which is why the HICAS ROW is coloured blue.

The connector pin numbers are in the doccument, an example of what to do is (Drivers door switch signal) PIN # 2, move to PIN # 52, on the third connector, therefore the wire will have to be made longer.

IMPORTANT: I wrote the columb on wether the wires have to be made longer or shorter based on the fact that i guessed that the wires would come from the left, i havent pulled my guages out yet so therefore do not know if this is right... obviously if the wires come from the right just do the opposite.

I would suggest labling every wire before you start removing them because you dont want to stuff something up.

Im going to buy a DYMO lable maker and put the move to # on every one the pull them all out then put them back where there meant to be. Just a suggestion.

Can someone please tell me why i cant upload EXCEL doccuments, should i be able to, and then i will post the instructions up.

  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...

After soo long i have only just found out that i left out the second half of this doccument out, thanks Smity42.

Also i have made some corrections since i first posted this but if i can remember correctly they were only to pin function descriptions not to actual pin numbers.

My current corrections are on a hard copy, when i get time i will get out the hard copy fix it up and repost it.

  • 5 months later...

Sweet Post Project-GT4-TT

But seems like such a mess around! So theres no Easier Way of doing this? im asking coz i have liek no experience working with this sorta stuff n i dont think this is exacly the work done by auto electricians?

Jus bought a GTR cluster for no reason then ><

Thanx

-Az

  • 3 months later...

I would guarantee this will work, i have only confrimed half of the sensors on my GTR guage cluster with a peg board and a car battery as i havent put it in my car yet but i have confrimed nearly every pinout for my mfd conversion is correct when i set it up on a peg board.

Have a look at my MFD post.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...fo-t223920.html

It's really not that difficult a conversion. My partner and I did mine in a few hours. Even made up a nice loom to seperate out the wires going to the 3 gauge cluster (with the right plug to go straight in) then one set of wires (with a nice easy plug) to the ECU, then another set (also with a plug) for the other set of wires - a few going down to the stereo area for illumination, battery, ign, and one wire going across to the speedo area for water temps.

Came out real neat, with heatshrink, etc - I'm happy with it. Easy to return it back to factory, and nice and neat for removal for servicing, etc. The way things should be done.

Just adding my rant from another post in the hope thit it will be heard, answered and maby if im lucky... rectified.

...

AND Can someone please give me a good reason why we cannot upload excel files??? WTF... as all my write ups i have done in excel, including a detailed one of where to get all the sensor inputs for installing the MFD, eg. what wires you need to get from the comp, attessa comp, guage cluster, new sensors, etc.

I dont have the time right now to a*se about copying excel sheets into paint just to upload them here, i'm sure people would appreciate the countless hours i've spent looking at wiring diagrams to work out how to wire these thing up, and appreciate being able to download them from here rather than having to email me.

Furthermore, i have just got a new computer and havent loaded office on it yet, so i cant even access the excell doccuments to to copy them into paint or something to change them into another format.

Ive tried changing the name to .doc, and zipping them for memory. That doesnt work either.

WHY make it sutch a pain in the a@@ to upload stuff.

...

Just wasted a half hour uploding 25 pics to be returned an error msg as i didnt type anything. How dumb.

Is there any way to select more than one pic at a time to upload ?

This is just painfull doing it one at a time.

  • 9 months later...

Please update files if you have downloaded.

I will upload an updated doccument in the next couple of days as "SCR34MIN" queried the fact that i have listed pin 24 and 27 (original NON GTR pins) both to be moved to pin 25 ( move to NON GTR pin / GTR pin )

RE: columbs A, C, D at rows 47 and 50.

C,47 and D47 should read pin number 28 i think (High Beam Ind. L)

Going to get the guage cluster out of the shed now and test it.

Sorry guys i thought i went over the whole service manual at 200% zoom to be sure that i didnt get any numbers wrong but ive re-checked it and because of the quality of the pdf its hard to tell but i think it should have been a 28 as listed above but i will confirm now.

Thanks SCR34MIN for the query on the fact that pin 25 was lised 2 times when it obviously shouldnt be.

If i havent posted up a new copy of the document in the next couple of days please send me a pm. Anyone.

Thanks for that mate.

Im going to attempt to go from a GTR gauge back to a GTT to be able to use my Nismo GTT gauge i bought, before i new my wiring had been changed.

Also, does anyone have pictures of the wires going into the back of a GTT cluster? wanting to see what its meant to look like and the colours of the wires...does anyone have anything like this?

Edited by SCR34MIN
  • 10 months later...

I have attached the full updated file, I am no longer going down this route as i have managed to find a full R34 GTR wiring loom, so all i need to do is transplant the front and rear doors part of the gt4 loom into the gtr loom when i do my conversion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...